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#91
May 11th 2011, 07:17
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Just secured a G50/01 gearbox and now need to swap out the 915. 2 steps forward, 1 step backward, but all for the better. The bellhousing will need to be shortened to avoid cutting the torsion tubes.
The 915 will be up for sale soon. Sandeep 
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#92
May 26th 2011, 21:45
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Some more progress....
G50/01 fitted in the chassis   Got it installed far enough forward to be the exact same distance as the old 915 bellhousing was, with only minor clearancing of the torsion tube. Had to cut a 1" dia hole in the torsion tube to accomodate a bump in the G50 nosecone. The G50 bellhousing still needs to be machined shorter.    Had to cut a small notch out of the upper frame horn to fit the bump in the gearbox that houses the internal shifting gate. I'll weld in some metal to try and make this look like a factory "pocket" in the frame horn.  Shifter and front mount installed, was able to use the old 915 front mount with very minor modifications.   The annular TOB is a LUK unit from a 2006-2008 VW Passat with 2.0T engine. I'll need to cut off the feed tube, tap it for an AN fitting and plumb it.  More to come when the bellhousing gets machined down, and need to find some 964 front diff axle flanges that use 100mm CV's. I'll use my old 915 rear mount with some minor mods. Thanks to Wally for leading the way with his install. Sandeep
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#93
May 27th 2011, 00:15
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Looking good Sandeep nice work!!
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#94
May 27th 2011, 03:35
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The way you do it now seems almost easy and straightforward
 Looks very familiar and without the body it is indeed even more easy to do. Be carefull how much you shave off the bell housing though. I did leave a few mm before the second rib on the bell housing and you will need that with the height of the TO bearing being what it is. Leaving one or two mm more then I machined off might be even better still. So, instead of the appr. 1 inch, make it 20mm or so? Also check the splined pinion shaft: with a type 4 crank being hollow the first part, you may not need to have the shaft shortenend at all. The length of the splines could be a little too much/long, but that depends heavily on the clutch set-up you will use. Greets, Walter
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#95
May 27th 2011, 05:46
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Great stuff! I love how a good, already installed and much sought after Porsche gearbox becomes "old" and makes room for the G50. That has to be dedication to the project!
Keep the pics coming! 
__________________
www.vw1303s.com
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#96
May 27th 2011, 12:29
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Thanks guys.
Its always easy to do something when its been so well documented before you make the attempt I'll be using a my WBX 228mm flywheel with 6 puc solid disk and kennedy stage 2 PP that are a carry over from the 2.0T motor (should hold 340 ft/lbs torque). I'll need to measure their combined installed depth and get an idea of how much the PP fingers must compress to release the clutch before determining how much to machine off the bellhousing. I can't recall the exact TOB measurements but believe its ~ 40mm compressed height and ~ 60mm extended length, will need to look at my notes. I woukld like to upgrade the power in the future  but am not sure if the Kennedy twin clutch set up is any difference (installed depth wise) from the setup that I will currently run ? That would be the next logical step, but if it is too different, I could go to a stage 3 PP (378 ft/lbs on stock disk, 450ish ft/lbs with the 6 puc). The annular TOB should not increase the pedal pressure by much, just based on the design.I'll keep Wally's recommendations in mind as he is the pioneer The 'old' 915 shifting mechanism seems 'lost' when I try to shift gears with the shaft only, the G50 just clicks from gear to gear , must be the internal shift gate. The shift rod installation will be quite easy I think, may have to shorten the rod, but that is trivial.More to come !
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#97
May 27th 2011, 15:13
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Quote:
Kennedy twin clutch IS the same thickness overall, BUT.... (large but) only if you use twin thin black magic disks... There, you found the reason I went BM... If you want twin organic, leave ~6mm (5mm MB vs 8mm organic times two)more meat on the bell housing
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#99
August 19th 2011, 02:44
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Too hot to work in the garage lately ... +35c with humidity so thought I'd spend some time in the cool basement with some electronics for the car.
     Now just need to clean things up, paint some parts and put the headlights back together for good. Sandeep
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#100
August 19th 2011, 06:02
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Oooooooooohhhh I like that a lot! I know exactly where you can install them!!
Would you share some details? Please!?
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#102
August 19th 2011, 11:01
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Quote:
The glass was changed from the H4 fluted lens to a '66 beetle clear lens. The lenses are the cheap aftermarket ones and I'll be replacing these with some OEM lenses (if I can find them) but they'll work for now. You can tell how crappy the lenses are by the distortion present in the first pic  The projectors are bixenon Morimoto Mini D2S's with D2S 5000K bulbs, 35 watt ballasts and a custom harness. The shrouds are called Gatling Guns and include the 100mm dia CCFL tubes / inverters, all was purchased from http://www.theretrofitsource.com I chose these projectors because the kit is a direct replacement for Halogen H4 bulbs ... total retrofit took about 2 hrs and I am impressed with the results, both asthetically and financially. I really wanted to fill in that 7" chrome bowl so the projector (2.5" dia) doesn't look lost. Sandeep
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#103
August 21st 2011, 08:31
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I agree the results are fantastic! Thanks for sharing! I have been thinking of how to convert my lenses to HID and bring it through the tüv - with those components it just might work..thanks!
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#104
August 21st 2011, 09:47
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Some more questions: the 7" bowl is still the original headlight bowl/backplate? Or is that the "Gattling Gun" plastic insert? The reason I ask is on the website the gattling gun shroud is the piece around the bulb? Or is there another piece to it that isn´t pictured on the website? The LEDs are also included?
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#105
August 22nd 2011, 10:52
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Yes, the 7" bowl is the original Bosch H4 bowl.
This particular D2S projector has a threaded end on it so it fits into the original hole for the H4 bulb. Once installed, the projector sticks out towards the glass lens on the front of the bowl. You still install the D2S bulbs from the rear of the bowl, just like the stock H4 setup. The shroud is then placed over the projector to cover up its guts ... a nice side effect of this is the cool pattern that is reflected on to the chrome bowl Of course you can get different shrouds, which will project a different pattern on to the bowl. Different shrouds also have provisions for different diameter CCFL / LED rings, I chose this particular model to fill out the bowl, the CCFL / LED rings are an option that comes with the kit. The great thing about this kit is it is fully 100% reversible if you needed to convert back  Sandeep
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