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  #196  
Old February 9th 2012, 09:13
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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Looking good!
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  #197  
Old February 9th 2012, 13:12
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Dave, an easy solution to your single shear issue is to change out the rod ends for threaded clevis rods with a bolt through that means the clevis will clamp on both sides of the tab. I don't understand why you have used rod ends as there should be no movement in a 5 bar design. Admittedly, all the joints should be pin joints but there is no movement. The rod ends actually add a weakness into the system because of all the interconnecting surfaces that are used to transfer the loads.
Also, the system doesn't need to be adjustable unless you deliberately want to have an adjustable pre-load to the frame horns? Some simple measurement will result in a accurate fabrication. Less adjustability = greater strength. As far as I can see the adjustable 5 bar systems are as much for looks as performance (frame horn pre-load) or to overcome oem production tolerences on the chassis.

Clive
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  #198  
Old February 9th 2012, 14:29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilC View Post
Dave, an easy solution to your single shear issue is to change out the rod ends for threaded clevis rods with a bolt through that means the clevis will clamp on both sides of the tab. I don't understand why you have used rod ends as there should be no movement in a 5 bar design. Admittedly, all the joints should be pin joints but there is no movement. The rod ends actually add a weakness into the system because of all the interconnecting surfaces that are used to transfer the loads.
Also, the system doesn't need to be adjustable unless you deliberately want to have an adjustable pre-load to the frame horns? Some simple measurement will result in a accurate fabrication. Less adjustability = greater strength. As far as I can see the adjustable 5 bar systems are as much for looks as performance (frame horn pre-load) or to overcome oem production tolerences on the chassis.

Clive
Quite helpful as always Clive, and 100% correct. Now that I've hacked in this setup I keep thinking about how it could be done better...I'm likely to rebuild the whole thing in the near future, but I figured I would wait until the car is running before I revisit it. Will definitely upgrade it before I do some racing though!

-Dave
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  #199  
Old February 11th 2012, 04:53
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Whew. 3 of 4 fenders are mounted. Seriously, I never thought these would be so annoying. Trying to get the fender beading perfectly even, smashing my knuckles when the wrench slips...etc. I might just leave the big blood smear under the front fender! (kidding). It would have been four fenders, but I snapped off one of the fender nuts on the front driver's side. ARGGG!! I hadn't got more then 4 or 5 threads into it, put maybe 5lbs of force on it and snap! spinning away. We replaced any of the ones I snapped off removing the fenders, so this one must have been on it's last legs and/or had something in the threads. Getting the bolt out was a fun experience...





Once I was done free-handing the hacksaw blade, it was onto grinding and welding...mere millimeters from where the fresh visible paint would be. Welding that close to fresh paint is ultra scary...but it's done. Waiting for paint to dry so I can't mount up the fourth. Once the black POR15 dries, I'll paint on the silver.


Following Fenderama I tested the rally tire out back.







I only have one of the 5.5" wide sport wheels at the moment, and it's the ET26 version. Porsche 914 wheels, which look identical, were 5.5 ET40. That will move me in a nice 14mm, which should still clear everything no problem and give me the clearance on the fenders I need. Thinner rally tires are also an option, but I own four of these (two are brand new) so if I can use them even better. Gravel will still destroy the lower few inches of the fender, but perhaps with mudflaps and a trick that a friend Bruce has for me...we might solve that problem. Well, for the rear at least.


The rear apron is currently a problem. The opening I have is 28" wide at the bottom. My rear apron? 30". Hmph, guess we bent things more then I thought! I'm going to wait until I have the rear bumper mounted. I anticipate that will stretch things out to the correct width and I can then see if I can get the Apron in.

Tomorrow it's off to do a parts run, and then I'll have more things to play with this coming week.

-Dave
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  #200  
Old February 13th 2012, 03:54
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Saturday started off as most seem to, on a parts run! This week it was off to AVR for a round of VW specific parts. Universal items like wiring or hardware I can usually pickup in town, but when it comes to items specific to the bug, or european, all my stuff comes from AVR. Is it bad that they have a shelf just for me? :P This is all worth mentioning, because Rob (the R in AVR) has been especially helpful in the build. Case in point, the oil cooler. I think he ordered in two different units, before I finally settled on the one I was going to get, and that was in October. Between then and now I think I've called or text messaged about 3 or 4 times for exact dimensions, bolt mounting measurements, etc. The sort of things you can't get online, or without the package in front of you. Even this past week he was pulling it off the rack yet again to triple check the thickness and confirm our numbers were correct. If Rob and I had been faxing blueprints back and forth, we couldn't have made it fit better!



While I was AVR I also took the time to look at another pedal cluster they had in stock. With it out of the car we confirmed that yes, something was wrong, and then quickly realized what it must be. After getting home I pulled my stop plate, and sure enough it was worn just-enough to cause the issue I'm having. 30 seconds with the grinder, and I got it exactly the way I want it. It's hard to see, but I've set it up so the clutch pedal is just a hair behind the brake pedal which will help me out when left-foot-braking. On the brakes side of things, I found a brake light switch (rear) was weeping just a tiny bit of fluid, I suspect this was the mystery air source, so I tightened it up, rechecked every fitting, and will bleed once again this week.


I then did some dishes! Well, not exactly dishes...more like oily and dirty used AN fittings and oil lines. It's probably better that we call them "dishes", since I used the kitchen sink! I will need to buy a tonne more oil fittings, but at least I can reuse the ones I've got from the last car.


One of my more dreaded jobs was the hood seal. On the '69, after the fresh paint, I must have chipped off half the paint on the hood seal channel. I was determined to not destroy this car, and while it took a long time, I did manage to get it installed without even a scratch. I do find the three 'nubs' on the aftermarket seals to be generally pretty poor. The driver's side on this one popped in no problem, but the passenger side just didn't want to stay in. Out came the high-strength weather-strip adhesive. Its basically super sticky contact cement. I'll need to clean up the bit you can see in the finished photo, and also figure out how to get some of the 'waves' out of the hood seal. Once I had done the top, the front apron section went in super quick...so now all I need is the Mexican style seal for the hood, and I'm laughing.


I did spend a while creating really nice Flextech wiring harnesses for the front turn signals, and even connect them...then I realized the early style lights I'm using, were wired totally different then the US-Spec big turn signals the car should have. Doh! I managed to redo one side, but will have to finish up the other tomorrow. With all four fenders now mounted, and the beading in place, it was starting to look a bit like a car. Now, however, it really looks like a car! Amazing what a hood can do.



I think I've got the gap pretty even as well.


I cannot WAIT to drive this thing!

-Dave
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  #201  
Old February 17th 2012, 17:28
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Wow, where has the week gone?! My best friend is back in town, after being gone for six months, so I haven't been getting as much work done on the car as I would like. A sacrifice I'm willing to make though :-)

I have got a bit of time in on the car, but not a lot of exciting work done. When I originally ran the speedometer sensor wires, I knew I was going to need to run a second run though to transmission area. I was able to make up the second harness I needed, and drop it in.


Almost immediately after running the wires through I realized I had forgotten one. Doh! I considered pulling out the harnesses and adding a few more wires to them, but then realized I would probably end up one wire short down the road anyhow. With that, I figured I would put a third set in, with three times as many wires as I anticipate needing. When in doubt, build for expansion!


Also worked on making some of the harnesses I will need to install. Oil cooler fan, oil fan thermostat and reverse light switch.


...and bought the bits I need to make the turn signals work in a late model. Should be back to regular work after the weekend!

-Dave
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  #202  
Old February 17th 2012, 21:01
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Almost there! Looks rad-ass. Are you leaving the bonnet satin black?
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  #203  
Old February 17th 2012, 23:51
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Yup. Bonnet and Engine lid were painted satin black by choice. The factory cars appeared to be satin black in the photos and video I have...so Satin it was!

-Dave
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  #204  
Old February 18th 2012, 04:43
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So far all of my 'untested' wiring has been working according to plan...without any trouble shooting. I did find one bad ground, which turned out to be corroded wire under the insulation, but I caught that before doing any testing. There was a pause for a while when I was diagnosing an errant circuit that was terribly confusing. Everything checked out from A to B, but the circuit wouldn't work. I tested, retested and retested again. Then I realized the kill switch was off. Oops!


The oil cooler and fan are now mounted for what I hope to be the last time. It will basically boil down to whether I can get the wrenches in on the AN fittings or not. With that, I wired in the relay for the oil cooler fan, and the two switches. There is a thermostatically controlled switch on the cooler outlet, and a manual 'on' switch at the dash. I actually ended up using the factory defrost switch for this feature. I also took the time to wire up the reverse-light switch and it's relay. Putting the car into reverse gives me a nice click at the relay, but without any taillight wiring I can't confirm it's 100% yet! Both of these circuits required fuses in the back seat area, which will be annoying to get to. I used ATO fuses, and bought the kind that light up when their blown. I figure this way I'll have a good visual indicator of the circuit. Quite hard to photograph, but the LED announcing a blown fuse is quite bright! (not that you can really tell in the photo below!)


I bought a set of EMPI front turn signals for the car, since the North American '71 sized units aren't accurate for the replica. Rob warned me the quality on the lights left a lot to be desired, but I really only need these to last while I find a good set of original ones. I had used them on my '69...for the black-out look, but w-o-w are these ones bad! Ill fitting rubber, ill fitting plastic...ahhh the joy. Got them all installed and sorted so they looked okay, and then realized I had a big brain fart. '71 wiring is quite different, and these would need to be modified. I had to cut the original bulb housings out, replace them with 1157 bulb housings, rewire for 3 wires (not two) and then reinstall them in the car. Between running around buying parts and actually doing the work, this wasn't a quick project. Pretty silly for something i might pull off the car next week!




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  #205  
Old February 19th 2012, 02:19
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Wiring, done properly, takes forever :P

Managed to get the front headlights and horn wiring finished. Also got the rally light wires 90% finished and tested. I'll need to mount the Lights to the bumper before I can finalize it. Due the changes I've made to the factory headlight tubes aren't an option, and small town Canada doesn't have a whole lot of options for grommets!



...but after a while, the wiring is done and looking clean. Driver's side sure is a lot busier with all the rally light grounds too!


For some reason I can only find one headlight bucket that's not rotten, so I need to wait until I get another next week. Just need to do the fuel tank breather lines, install a trunk release and I am done on the front trunk...whew!

I also spent some time tracking down my brake fluid leak. I was losing a small amount of fluid up front, and thought I had solved it last weekend with the brake switch. Made me quite annoyed to find more fluid under the car this morning! It would appear its leaking at the rear inlet, between the white plastic bit and the rubber. I might get lucky, and it might just be the way I had the lines ziptied. When I cut the ties the lines moved and it seemed to relax things a little. Couldn't find any fluid after a half hour, cross my fingers!

-Dave
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  #206  
Old February 19th 2012, 16:07
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A tip for you that I found out by luck: some door wiring grommet convoluted tubes are a perfect fit for the headlight wiring, can't remember what mine were off but a trip to a scrap yard will turn some up, gives a good sealed conduit then!
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  #207  
Old February 20th 2012, 00:53
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That's a good tip...too bad I'm done! hahaha. Ended up doing a shorter day in the garage, but managed to finish off the electrical system and test everything. There are a few outstanding items, like my gauges which haven't yet arrived from Stewart Warner, but all circuits are ready for plug and play, and everything has been tested.

Here's what my rear taillight harnesses look like. You can see the grommet on the left hasn't yet been sealed, but the one in the fender has a pretty good seal on the fender grommet. The headlight grommets are done the same, and of course I've done both the body and fender side at all four corners.


I'm not a big fan of grounding through light housings, at least not on a freshly painted car, so I chose to add ground wires that connect to a fender bolt on each side. The fender bolt nuts were all cleaned out with a tap, so I'm confident they're going to ground quite well.




And with that...it's time to move on to the next big phase of the project! (well, tomorrow at least )

-Dave
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  #208  
Old February 20th 2012, 05:12
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Couldn't help myself, and after a break ended up back in the garage mocking up various parts of the oil system. I may have run into a problem with my oil temp sender though. My plan has always been to run three sensors: One in the engine replacing the pressure relief valve, one in the tank and one at the outlet of the oil cooler. The theory being that I can then see engine oil temp at the engine, engine oil temp at the tank (required for warmup), and what the temp of the oil going into the engine is. I want this third sensor as it gives me more info on what's going on, and will allow me to diagnose any issues with the oil system, cooler size, etc down the road. This third sensor, though, is going to be a problem!

Here's the temp sensor. Sorting out how to put this at the end of the oil cooler is the trick.


Russell Performance has part #670350 which is a -8AN fitting with a 1/8NPT take-off, normally used for fuel pressure...I figured I'd see if it might be helpful. Now, I should note that I ordered this before I actually looked at the oil temp sender ;-)


Obviously it's not going to work just threaded in...


So, through a series of insanely complicated adapters...one can make it work. But this isn't ideal. It's heavy, has five sets of threads that could leak...and, lets be honest, ugly!


But, it does get me thinking. With the sensor so far out of the oil stream I also have to consider whether or not the data collected will be worth anything. Russell Performance has this fitting, which I might be able to modify on the lathe to make work:


I'll have to call tomorrow and find out the I.D. and wall thickness of the part, to see if it's thick enough to cut down and thread for the sensor. Otherwise, I might have to eliminate this one from the system.

-Dave
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  #209  
Old February 20th 2012, 08:19
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Hi

Is that a VDO sender? You can get different sender shapes that maybe more friendly.

Steve

[IMG]~original[/IMG]
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  #210  
Old February 21st 2012, 13:19
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Hey dave, dont try modifying the sender. I learned that the hard way as I was trying to get it to fit into something and I ground it down a little bit. Then pop! the spring came lauchning out
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