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  #241  
Old March 7th 2012, 00:49
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I'd be happy to send you a template, would just trace it out on some paper and mail it. Anything I send you, though, will require some testing and fitting on your end. Material thickness and type will change the flex and exact size you need. If you get enough material to make three liners, you should be perfect. First one is cut to my template, and if it's too small to fit tight it's super easy to figure out how much larger to make your second one. PM me your address.

-Dave
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  #242  
Old March 7th 2012, 03:26
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Dry Sump tank is back from welding, and back in the car for the final time. Other then that, I spent some time on Warwick's Mini and didn't accomplish much else! I did spend most of the time I would normally spend in the garage working on confirming all the needed parts to finish the car. The goal is to have the car ready for alignment in two weekends, which means having the engine installed, rear suspension mounts finished and all the other stuff needed to get it trailer worthy and running weight.

I am going to have a few issues moving forward though. One of the required items is a BMD serpentine pulley system. So far its the only system I have found which keeps the correct ratio between the crank pulley and the alternator pulley. The dry sump pump requires a 5.25" or smaller crank pulley, which then requires a much smaller alternator pulley if you want to have the same fan speed and cooling as a stock setup. Lots of lower crank pulleys available, but only the BMD system includes a well sized upper pulley. Problem? BMD isn't going to be building any for about three weeks.



The current plan is to purchase the BMD kit when it's available, but I do need to come up with a solution in case they are delayed. The first event I have to run is April 27-29, and I'd like to get some shakedown done beforehand! I've called everyone who makes, or carries, a dry sump sized pulley on their website. Finally found a CB performance one which can arrive on Friday. That really hurt since Rob at AVR called me yesterday and asked I might need anything from CB performance...I said no! The CB pulley is a V-Belt style pulley, which does lead to the next problem: Pulley ratio.

I'll save you all the math and figures, and state it simply:
Stock alternator pulley diameter: 4.25"
Required pulley diameter to keep the proper fan speed: 3.30"
Required pulley diameter to keep the ratio I was using: 2.94"

Available pulley's in 3.3" or 3"? Zero.

The Porsche 356 pulley, which is a straight bolt on, is 3.75", which at least gets me closer. I'm also going to consider putting my current serp-belt upper pulley in the lathe to cut it down into a pulley with a v-shape grove. It's currently 3.75", and I think it has enough meat on it to get me down to 3.5" and shaped for a V-Belt. The only problem with that idea, is I have no way to tension the belt. I wonder if ghetto-rigging the serpentine belt tensioner to press against the back side of the v-belt is an option. Not pretty, but at this stage I'm looking for emergency-situation functional!


One of the advantages of the CB pulley is the fact that its an aluminum pulley bolted to a steel center section. In theory I could have a serp-belt pulley machined and setup to bolt onto the center section. I could quickly turn down the upper serpentine belt pulley that I have now, and end up with a ratio that is almost dead-on the stock one. Problem is I suspect that having a crank pulley machined up quickly is going to be overly cost prohibitive, and I won't be able to maintain the serp-belt groves in the upper pulley.

Come to think of it...I could just run the event with a standard oil pump. Geesh, why didn't I think of that this afternoon?

-Dave
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  #243  
Old March 7th 2012, 10:17
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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After reading the whole post your conclusion was what I first thought might be an idea, however that is then an unknown for the next time around. But it does mean you'll get out and then be able to shake down that last element seperately.

As for the template, you could get it hosted somewhere as a PDF to print, presmably it'd be smaller than A3 which could mean it can either be printed at that size or enlarged at your local news agent with a photocopier.
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  #244  
Old March 8th 2012, 01:20
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Hey dave...

So I use both the CB dry sump pulley 5.25" and the 356 and my cooling is doing fine... so if you really needed to in a Pinch it does work just fine.

Chris.
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  #245  
Old March 8th 2012, 03:12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chug_A_bug View Post
Hey dave...

So I use both the CB dry sump pulley 5.25" and the 356 and my cooling is doing fine... so if you really needed to in a Pinch it does work just fine.

Chris.
Well that's good news! Today was a bit of a crazy day on the dry sump side of things, I was looking into how I would cut a proper V-Belt groove into a pulley...should I need to make one on a lathe, when I stumbled upon something far cooler. I found the tooling bit used to cut serpentine belt grooves into pulleys, and a bunch of the engineering info regarding minimum radius, minimum tolerances, etc. required for the pulley design. I was stuck on making the keyways on a lathe, but sure enough one of my books had simple directions on how do that. Technically I could make my own serpentine belt setup, an idea I was heavily considering until I got an email.

My dry sump pump isn't finished in production yet, so it won't ship for my weekend parts pickup. At first I was a bit demoralized. I've been going hell-bent-for-leather on this car, and making sure I don't take any short cuts or "have to go back to fix that" before the car hits the road. But then I started to think about a new car, a mandatory event at the end of April, and (in the words of Eric Bana) the fact that "a new race car never feels good out of the workshop." Suddenly I realized this was a good thing.

The stress is gone! I can focus on getting the car ready to run the Spring Thaw, and then pull it back into the garage to do the final engine setup.

...problem is, I couldn't do much else besides think tonight. I've run out of parts, or jobs to do until I get parts. It's going to be hard waiting until Saturday night!

-Dave
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  #246  
Old March 9th 2012, 04:02
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Today was a good day! After finishing the headliner a few weeks back, one of the local club members sent me an email. "Don't rip the whole headliner out, that's totally fixable." Hmmm. It took a few weeks before Gary was able to come up, but he arrived this morning to work some magic. He took a walk around teh car, mentioned that it really wasn't that bad and easy to fix. For the most part I did alright, except for one rather funny error. You know the door post pieces? Yeah, totally put the plastic bit in backwards.



Gary pulled down about half of the headliner, and tore out both door pillar pieces. Some of the back section was pulled up in places...and then he got to work. The results are awesome

Before:


After:


Before: (A-Pillar hiding creases)


After:


Before:


After:


So, as you can see...totally worth getting an expert in!

Thanks Gary!

-Dave
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  #247  
Old March 11th 2012, 02:46
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So the Motorsport CV-Boots came in this weekend, which meant some fun installing. The units I used are made by GKN, part number MSJ6002. They do require some modifications to use, but not nearly as much as I initially thought. The bolt circle is about 1-2mm smaller then the VW units, so to use them you will need to open up the six bolt holes slightly to to have them fit. The CV bolt plates will also need to be modified. Otherwise, they fit no problem :P



In my case, however, the first one was almost a 3 hour affair. I knew the bolt circle was wrong when I ordered them, but by the time they arrived I had totally forgotten. I pulled the axle, swapped teh boots and proceeded to reinstall. Everything was going quickly right up to the point where I started putting bolts into the new boot. I could get the first couple in, but then they just wouldn't go in. Took a few tries/minutes before I remembered the bolt circle problem. Pull the boot back, drill the holes out (with a step-drill so they are still round), clean out the chips, regrease, and try again. This time I could get three bolts in, but then they still wouldn't fit. I was sure I was going to strip the bolts. WTF!?! For the next try I slid the boot up the axle and started putting bolts in without the boot. Again I could only get three bolts in. Obviously it's not the boot...but what!?! The axle was already installed in the car and I eliminated the only new part in the equation. Hmmmm. Took a break, had a coffee, and still couldn't think of it. I was working on figuring out whether it was the same three holes I was having issues with, or if they were moving around when it dawned on me...

I bought six new CV Bolts as I could only find three for this last joint. The stub axles have been painted with POR15, and thus there must be some paint in the threads. After running a tap through all six holes, it all slid together like butter. Three HOURS to deal with one boot!

Modifications required to the bolt plates:


The second boot was done in mere minutes, since I knew all the tricks...and the clearance between these and a regular CV boot is pretty incredible.





With that done...I moved onto other items. Had the heater going in the shop so figured I would lay some plasti-dip while it was warm. Before and after on my rear-view mirror. I just couldn't leave the dry-rot on the plastic as it was, eh?!



And FINALLY the gauges needed to finish the dash! Well, most of the gauges. Still no air-fuel gauge, and still no LED light bulbs...but at least all the holes are filled! I'm missing half the photos for the moment, so on a later post I'll explain how I get the lighting color I love without the LED bulbs. The beauty of my system is you can get any gauge to light up any colour you want, without LEDs, even the factory VW or Porsche gauges.


With the oil-temp gauge came the oil-temp sender I needed for the oil tank. Installed and wired up!


A big thanks to SteveC who shipped me the "available in Australia only" VDO temperature sender. This one is going in the feed line to the motor so I can see the temp of the oil going in (post filter and cooler). Sits one-thread into the oil passage, so I figure that's probably okay.




Would have gone further on the car tonight, but it's Supercross and my living room is packed with buddies. Bumpers tomorrow morning!

-Dave
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  #248  
Old March 11th 2012, 09:14
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Dave, Any idea if they do those boots for 930 size CVs?
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  #249  
Old March 11th 2012, 14:38
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GKN has three part numbers that are close to the 930 dimensions. I don't have a 930 joint, so I cannot measure the bolt circle of the mounting holes, which will be your deciding factor on whether you can make them fit or not.

- All three part numbers have an ID at the mounting flange of 107mm. The 930's are 108, but my Type-1s are 94 and the GKN boots I used are 93mm. You should be fine with 107mm.
- All three part numbers have a bolt-circle of 94mm.
- All three part numbers have a bolt-hole diameter of 10.2mm

MSGN001 has an axleshaft opening in the boot of 22mm. It's listed as a 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 108mm CV joints and tripod housings.
MSGN002 has an axleshaft opening in the boot of 25mm. It's listed as a 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 108mm CV joints and tripod housings.
MSGN011 has an axleshaft opening in the boot of 22mm. It's listed as a 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 108mm CV joints and tripod housings (high angle).

I am using a 'regular' boot (not listed as high angle), but using the part numbers above I would Google and see what you can find that's available. Of course, you're in the motorsports mecca of the UK, so GKN has an office in your neck of the woods (relatively speaking). +44 121 313 1661. sales@gkndriveline.com

-Dave
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  #250  
Old March 12th 2012, 04:06
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Amazing how many hours I spent in the garage today to feel like nothing was accomplished! haha. Just one of those days I suppose. Got some stuff sorted out, some stuff half sorted out, and then hit a major decision I've got to make about the car. First, some successes...

Started on the rear quarter window, for the passenger side. Initially I was hoping to do popouts on both sides, but I realized that replacing the glass with lexan wouldn't allow the popout to pull closed. So, lexan and fixed for the first side! I opted for 3/16" lexan, which is a little heavier weight then I would normally use for racing, but this particular window needs to be pretty rigid. On my last rally car we used 3/32"! Hmmm...that hole isn't stock?


Neither is this one...


But the shape and size are right, and fit the seal! But man, was that ever a pain in the butt to get in there.


On the first go for installation we didn't get very far, maybe about 1/2 the way around before there was just no hope of going further. The only other windows I've ever installed (of this style) were the old quarters in my '69. I was reusing the old seals, and they just popped right in. Did I make the lexan too big (even though it's dead-nuts the same size as the glass)? A few texts to Rob over and AVR and I knew the secret. Why I didn't think to soap and lubricate the seal...I have no idea. Once we added a bit of soap and water it popped in fairly easily. Not like butter, but easily enough.

The "fuel" cap is actually going to be the filler for the oil-tank as getting into the back seat is going to be a pain. I'll be swapping out the standard cap for a locking one, but otherwise that's the plan. The NACA duct will deliver moving air to the oil cooler, but I still have to box that in. The black lip around the NACA duct hides the cutout in the window, but I haven't decided if its going to stay. It's plasti-dip, which means it's removable if I choose to down the road.


One issue I did have, is that this all fit with no problems while flat on the bench. Installed in the car, though, and it appears the window is a touch 'too big' and flexing in towards the interior. The odd part, however, is that against the factory glass I couldn't have gotten the size any closer. Not sure why it's bowing in like this.


Tossed a quick seal into it for now, and will probably re-adjust and play with it later to get it all fitting perfectly.


While i had the plasti-dip out, I decided I'd take care of the pop-out window that I'll be using on the Driver's side of the car. Yes, I'm fully aware that I'm going to have completely mis-matching windows Left to right...but the airflow provided by the pop outs is just too good to give up. And, I challenge you to look at both sides of the car at once! ;-) The popouts do, however, have a wide aluminum frame that just won't go with the rest of the car.


So with a bit of plasti-dip, we eliminate the silver aluminum in a non-permanent manner! It still needs to cure some before I can install it, but I much prefer the look over the original. Might have to plasti-dip the aluminum trim around the door windows as well.


And with that, it's onto the decision making part of the build. Before I had even started the car, I acquired these four Bosch 220 rally lights. In a lot of ways these were the ultimate starting point for the car. They're great rally lights, justify all the Bosch sponsor logos on the car and they're pretty close to period correct. The problem, however, is they aren't *quite* right. The factory cars used Bosch Knick 180's, not the larger 220s. The size difference is significant. I've seen cars with both the 180s and the 220's, and while both look good, the 180's are definitely more proportional to the car. You can fit four 'inside' the headlights, while four 220's require overlapping of the headlights ever-so-slightly. And then there is the mounting. Factory lights were drilled through the front bumper, take a look at the mount for the 220's (off a Mitsubishi Colt Rally car). That's some serious mounting to keep them from vibrating!




In the shop, between my roomate Warwick and I, we have three Bosch 220s, one Bosch 220 case without lens, three Hella 4000's (same size dimensions as the 220 but with way better mounting setup), and 6+ Piaa 510(?) series of lights. The Piaa lights are the same diameter as the Knick 180's were. Here's the back of a 220 and the back of a Piaa 510 for size comparison:


There are so many reasons to run the Piaa's over the Bosch lights. In addition to the ease of fitting them, they're lighter, will shake less, I can decide on the beam patterns I want, and when I break them, parts are readily available. I own a vinyl machine, so with the right covers I could very easily make them "Bosch" lights. This should be a no brainer. Hell, the rest of the car sure isn't a "replica"! But a hard choice to make when the Bosch lights are right there...

In the meantime, I started working on the mounts for the rally lights. I won't need to decide which lights I'm going with until tomorrow night when the tabs get welded on.

-Dave
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  #251  
Old March 12th 2012, 05:04
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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Interesting on the plastidip, wouldn't have thought to use it like that.

I think you made the right choice on the smaller lights too.
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  #252  
Old March 12th 2012, 11:22
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Nice progress. I too like the smaller lights.
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  #253  
Old March 12th 2012, 11:27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owdlvr View Post
No residual pressure valve. I'm using the same brakes front and rear, as I did on my '69. Same pedal cluster. The only thing different is the super beetle line routing, and the master. So if I didn't have a valve on my '69, I shouldn't need one here!

-Dave
Dave, sorry for the historic reply but you move too fast for me! I have a hydraulic handbrake in the '03 and had to use a 2psi RPV on the rear line to get anything like a decent pedal as the m/c for the handbrake allows too much flex without the RPV. I can thoroughly recommend the hydraulic handbarke that can lock the rear line very easily with moderate pressure. The handbrake locks up with 3 clicks on the ratchet with the hydraulics and is set for 6 clicks when purely mechanical, so that when its used in anger the calipers do all the duty and not the spindely shoes.

Clive
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  #254  
Old March 12th 2012, 14:24
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Thanks Dave, they are only up the road from me!
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  #255  
Old March 12th 2012, 15:45
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so on a later post I'll explain how I get the lighting color I love without the LED bulbs. The beauty of my system is you can get any gauge to light up any colour you want, without LEDs, even the factory VW or Porsche gauges.
EL Wire?

Love your project, The fact that you're doing everything from scratch makes it so much nicer..
Oh, and also in my ignorance, I'm learning about a few things like the nutserts, plastidip etc
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