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Old May 3rd 2009, 00:07
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1952 GL update thread

Time for an update............

last update:
http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8853

The '52 project is slowly coming together. Whatever should be a quick job turns into something way longer. I either make something different, modify a existing part, or wait for parts to arrive. The following pics are from my phone. Some are better than others. Most are taken in my garage in the middle of the night. It's not out of place for me to be wrenching at till 4am. Actually i prefer it, as the music on the radio(100.7fm) after midnight keeps me motivated.

Will post updates over the next few days.

Pete
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Last edited by petevw; May 3rd 2009 at 01:33.
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Old May 3rd 2009, 00:24
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Here we go:

Test fitted the 2332 EFI turbo longblock. Had issues with the ARPM case not mating up to the Autocraft trans. Thought it was the trans input shaft bottoming out on the flanged crank. Tossed on my empty case from the blown 2332, it fit with no issues. Tried another trans with the ARPM case, no problem. Seems like the ARPM case and Autocraft trans are of the same size. So need to chamfer both.





Bolted up the turbo header and the #4 exhaust pipe was hitting the body. Header is custom. Stainless under the apron for a T04 turbo. When it arrived, it was missing the #3-Jpipe. So had to wait for it to show. Will need to cut the flanges off the pipe, cut down the header, and reweld. You can see how far off it is bottom left of the pic.



To give you an idea on timeline. I sent my turbo, and wastegate to California on March 12 '08. Finally header got done and i was to pick it up when in Vegas for the Bugoramma(Oct '08). Header box, with turbo didn't fit in rental car. Parcel sent to Buffalo. Picked up from Buffalo. Missing pipe finally made it to my house in Jan 23 '09. Now i need to modify it cause it doesn't fit.

So since the turbo motor was taking forever, concentrated on getting the 2275 together. The A1 sidewinder exhaust didn't fit well. The #1Jpipe was quite a bit off and had to muscle it on. It was missing #1pipe) from the original shipment, and was sent afterwards. The rest of the header isn't sitting properly and leaking when bolted up. So need to cut that #1 flange off, reweld in the proper position to relieve the pressure, and get it ceramic coated again. Dammit....

Smoked a Pertronix in the dizzy when trying to fire it up. Bad new coil. Borrowed a 009/coil from Greg(TunedPerfection). Looking at a Mallory dizzy now.

The engine fired up really nice in my driveway. Should have good power, as the ATV lift left some divets in my driveway.







Both headers interfere with the kafer brace drop bars to the frame horns. I had to remove them. They were setup for use with a Type4 motor. I will have to modify and reposition them later when the engine and driveshafts are in. Time to tear down the 2275, and install in the split. The DTM shroud will be cut above the valve covers. This will make them removable for the install in the narrow engine bay.

Here is the oil cooler mentioned in the other thread that has been flipped around to have the fittings face the front. When facing the rear, the fittings were too close to the beam and steering box. Aluminum angle was used to get it mounted to the beam/pan bolts.



Trying to come to a decision if i should pull the hose out and do all the oil/gas plumbing in AN fittings and stainless braided hose. Need to decide this week.

Pete
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Last edited by petevw; May 9th 2009 at 04:02.
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  #3  
Old May 3rd 2009, 01:59
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Nice Work Buddy,
let me know about the AN fittings too and I Still get 10% off what I gave you...
can't wait to See more

Chris.
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Old May 3rd 2009, 04:07
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So long Pete...i'ts nice to see again this veeeery long and beautiful project back in to the seen!

Keep us updated and post more pics!

Jim
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Old May 3rd 2009, 09:26
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I would keep the hose Pete.
Stainless will rub and scratch the inner paint of the tunnel which was flooded with POR 15 btw.

You do not really see the hose either. If you must have stainless braided hoses do it in the engine compartment with AN connectors.

Just my opinion. In the NSU I will use stainless pipe thru the tunnel. The good thing about the NSU is that it has 3 access panels from the bottom of the tunnel so I can properly secure the pipes.

Alex
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Old May 3rd 2009, 09:50
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As far as the oil plumbing goes. I would bend up a pair of 1/2" ridged stainless lines (heavy gauge) to run from front to rear and use shorter lengths of hose at either end. The pressure flux and cooling will be better with a ridged line
Here is a pic of 3/8 lines for fuel but it is the same idea.

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Old May 3rd 2009, 10:37
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Thanks for the comments. I had a fuel hose burst on the super the night before a criuse, what a mess. Was thinking the stainless braided would offer better protection, especially from the shift rod that moves around in the tunnel. I'm liking Dave's idea. Stainless pipe, with hose ends for flexability. How to secure inside the tunnel? I'll look at it today.

Pete
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Old May 3rd 2009, 17:21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petevw View Post
Thanks for the comments. I had a fuel hose burst on the super the night before a criuse, what a mess. Was thinking the stainless braided would offer better protection, especially from the shift rod that moves around in the tunnel. I'm liking Dave's idea. Stainless pipe, with hose ends for flexability. How to secure inside the tunnel? I'll look at it today.

Pete
I secured my oil lines with a rectangular shaped washer from one of the pan bolts. Drilled a hole thru the tunnel, and sent a bolt thru the washer to hold the lines up against the side of the tunnel.

I can't post a pic of it for some reason...
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Old May 7th 2009, 12:18
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Nice Work Buddy...
can't wait to See it out THIS summer

Chris.
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Old May 7th 2009, 13:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally View Post
I think the latter one: if its only a tiny bit out of perpendicular (sp?), it will not fit. If the machined faces of the studs are flat and perpendicular to the mounting surface of the center of the wheel mating area, you have this same problem.
The 'whacking' to drive the studs all the way to properly seat and be perfectly perpendicular is is scaringly great (ask me how I know...), so I can imagine this could be the (simple) cause.
We'll see how she looks when i pull it apart this weekend. Put a steel nut on the stud, tapped it with a hammer, and it didn't move. Hopefully they are aren't bent. I'll get it in a arbor press next week, to make sure they are bottomed out *fingerscrossed*.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilC View Post
Pete,

That bottom coilover bolt looks a tad long. There will be a substantial bending moment on the end of it particularly as you are exclusively using the coilover rather than torsion bars. Is there a clearance problem with the damper body on the alloy arm?

Clive
The coilover spring was binding on the AL arm, and the bolt without spacers was pinching the bottom spherical bearing not allowing it to move. So i spaced it out. Probably too much. When i get some weight in it, the uniball mounted and aligned, i'll have a better idea where the damper will sit. I'll then machine the spacers to get that bolt in further.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CLKWRK View Post
I like what you did with the oil cooler, are you going to go dry sump?
Not yet. The carb'd 2275 going in will be full flowed. The 2332T will be drysumped.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chug_A_bug View Post
Nice Work Buddy...
can't wait to See it out THIS summer

Chris.
That's the plan. Friday's have become "work on the split day". I'm down to a 4-day work week.


Thanks for the comments guys! Appreciate it.


Pete
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Last edited by petevw; May 7th 2009 at 13:17.
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Old May 7th 2009, 13:13
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Looking at this pic, what are the 4 holes all about on the springplate?



The 2 round ones on the left have regular bolts to bolt to the arm. The far right hole has what looks to be a camber bolt with a huge hex head on the inside. Does the middle hole stay empty? Does it need another bolt? I can't recall if i have this "camber bolt" on the drivers side. I'll have to look again. Is the Camber bolt used for setup, and them removed after cranking down the other 3.

Am i way off here?

Pete
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Old May 7th 2009, 13:23
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I love seeing fat steamroller tires on a bug, it's just awesome. I don't know why but one of my favorite parts on your car is the CF crotch cooler doors. How much wider are the rear fenders? Keep up the good work and keep the progress pics coming
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Old May 8th 2009, 02:53
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If i remember correctly, the fenders are 1.5inch wider.

The crotch coolers are just a carbon plate at the moment. I plan to make them functional flaps in the future. I have the grills and springs for them, just need to make the hinges and grill support. I like them too......
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Last edited by petevw; May 8th 2009 at 05:00.
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Old May 8th 2009, 11:50
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Looking REALLY nice, love the wheels.

Jason
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Old May 9th 2009, 08:12
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Sux that the panels don't fit the early car doors. I like the idea of the clips. Black anodizing would be a good finish for the aluminum clips with the stainless botton head fastener would be my pick. What if black rubber "U" trim was used around the edge? http://http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubb...annels/=1sq1hs
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