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  #16  
Old August 9th 2004, 23:34
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Bill K. Bill K. is offline
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RAT Ready

Ready for installation of RAT 2270C. Here's picts of the engine compartment and external oil cooler.

Engine bay wired and plumbed

Wire harness with Weatherpack fittings and fuel line

Setrab fan pack cooler tucked next to RLR traction bar

Next up is engine install, BAS exhaust mounting, oil line assembly/priming, and finally ENGINE FIRE-UP.

I had a hell of a time with the steering column assembly. After figuring out how it went back together, I realized my steering bearing was shot. So I had to find a used one. Now the wheel is slop free.

Wiring has been a challenge. The Watsons kit gives a good foundation, but the diagrams that come with the kit don't account for VW specific switches and relay's, so merging the two has taken focus. Still quite a bit more to do, but ignition works.

I hope to have it road ready in a few weeks.

Fired up,
Bill

Last edited by Bill K.; October 23rd 2004 at 10:30.
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  #17  
Old August 10th 2004, 08:19
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Lookin good. I have been debating the last couple of days about the Setrab. There is just no room for this 96 plate since installing the cup brace. Jake has been telling me to go with the biggest I can though. Did you talk with him about the single pack Setrab? Did he feel it would be enough? Oh, and did it come with the fan switch already installed?

I mocked one up and there is just enough room behind the left heating tube and above the trailing arm. expensive little boogers though.
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  #18  
Old August 10th 2004, 09:35
Supa Ninja Supa Ninja is offline
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Hey Bill let me know if you need any help with the finally assembly.

Nick
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  #19  
Old August 10th 2004, 09:50
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Setrab

Jake said that a 72 plate Mesa cooler without a fan would be enough for my application. I tried one, but was not happy with the mounting options. For the best air flow, it would have gone under the sway bar/torsion tube but that was too close to the ground for me. Tucking it above the trailing arm at an angle mounted off the sloped section of the package tray would have worked, but I wasn't sure there would be enough air flow.

Jake said the single Setrab is more than enough for my application. I decided to go for it since oil cooling is such a critical function. I like having the fan, so it'll cool when idling after running hard. It's very well made and really small. The fan cranks. I bought it, the switch (seperate), and the rubber mounts at aircooled.net. I mounted it skewed with the inlet at the lowest point and the outlet at the highest point to ensure complete priming. I used 2 sets of rubber mounts (2 on each corner) because with only 1 mount, it seemed a little wobbly. The brackets are a mild steel, so they flex too.

I don't think the dual fan pack would have fit for me with the RLR traction bar in there. Neither the single or dual would fit over the tranny.

Keep It Kool,
Bill
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  #20  
Old August 10th 2004, 10:13
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Nick, got the engine in last nite and could use some help horking the exhaust into place tonite. I PM'd you.
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  #21  
Old August 10th 2004, 13:22
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sweet. thanks for the info. i confirmed with Jake just now. he said it should be fine. so i am ordering now with the switch.

keep us updated on your progress...lotsa pics...lotsa tech articles.
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  #22  
Old August 17th 2004, 23:41
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Fired UP

Cranked up my new RAT2270C today after weeks of full-on assembly after the paint got done. Very gratifying to rev it up, feel the heat, and breath the exhaust. Can't wait to feel the G's. Still have a bit more to do before I drive it.







Huge thanks go out to Jake Raby and crew for an awesome powerplant. :bowdown:

Last edited by Bill K.; October 23rd 2004 at 10:32.
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  #23  
Old August 18th 2004, 00:25
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Your car looks better every time I see it. Great job Bill... :agree:
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  #24  
Old August 18th 2004, 16:56
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you work a hell of a lot quicker than me. so did you follow instructions better than i did? i just discovered (now that the engine is already in) that i was supposed to do some fitting of the front tin BEFORE the engine went in. augh.

looks like i have to decide where i am going with the filter location as well also. i have to find a home for it somewhere for the same reason (BAS exhaust).
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  #25  
Old August 18th 2004, 20:24
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I'm really tired -- 8p to 1a every nite for weeks since the paint was done... Running on sisu. The launch down the street this morning helps a lot.

DTM tin -- tricky with or without instructions. I pre-fit before installing, then tweeked some more after installing. I did this after replacing my rear clip and before paint to make sure the engine would fit. I had to clearance/bend the lower lip of the apron for the header to clear. The car had been rear ended, so the body was tweeked in the left rear. The body shop pulled it back into alignment so the deck lid would close right. Now header clearance is great.

Anyway, there is a lot of work to do to the side tin to fit around the intake manifolds. I used a hole saw to rough cut then a grinder to finish fit. Mine ended up a lot narrower at the apex than the kit starts with. Jake says the kits that way for compatibility with other intakes. The engine seal gives a lot of room for slop and Jake said some gaps are fine. I measured my engine bay width, cut a cardboard template and used that to gauge how much to remove from the side tin. When I have the engine out next time, I'm definately going to open up a couple holes and use fender washers to cover up the misfits. The double over lap ones in the rear corners were the toughest for me. The shroud tabs also needed trimming to fit the breather hoses at the heads, so take that into account when installing the nut inserts. Then I had to clearance the corners of the intake manifold flange next to the breather hoses to install the carbs.

You can probably trim the side tin with the engine in. Hopefully you have the rear tin attached to the engine... pull the engine if you don't . For me, getting the engine in/out was easy compared to fitting the tin.

Filter adapter -- mounting to the wheel well was simple enough. I had brake line clearance issues to the left muffler when I lowered the car to the ground, but I re-routed the line. I have stock trailing arms with CB disks, so the Porsche setup probably won't have a problem. Just be aware of wheel travel when mounting the filter adapter, etc. I'm going to add 2 +/- inch spacers to fill the +3 fenders, so I'll have more muffler clearance but it's fine as is. On STF, I'm getting suggestions to add a filter rock shield. I'm thinking about a "fender inside the fender" to guard the filter bottom and side while still giving access to change the filter without removing the shield.

BAS -- Mounting the trany brackets is just as much fun as the engine tin. Starter bracket took bending to clear the traction bar and eyes on your fingers to fit the link fastener. Left side bracket involved shortening the mounting stud, dimpling the frame horn, backing the trany side plate studs out, washer shims, clamp welding. At this point I was in another world, so I just took it one challenge at a time always with the "do it right" montra keeping me from flipping out. I used exhaust clamps to hold the three lateral seams together and will monitor for backfires before I commit to welding.

Take it one step at a time, there are no short cuts... The racing starts when the car is done AND your happy with it.
Bill
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  #26  
Old August 18th 2004, 20:50
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augh. sure you don't want to come over and take care of that for me? i am just so ready to drive this thing. nothing new, but time is running short on me making a show with the car. would rather get it right though and refuse to take too much quality time away from the kids over it. looks like i am a bachelor all weekend so maybe i can make up some ground.

your car is really looking good and coming along nicely. you really belong in the VKG.
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  #27  
Old August 19th 2004, 04:17
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill K.
BAS -- Mounting the trany brackets is just as much fun as the engine tin. Starter bracket took bending to clear the traction bar and eyes on your fingers to fit the link fastener. Left side bracket involved shortening the mounting stud, dimpling the frame horn, backing the trany side plate studs out, washer shims, clamp welding. At this point I was in another world, so I just took it one challenge at a time always with the "do it right" montra keeping me from flipping out. I used exhaust clamps to hold the three lateral seams together and will monitor for backfires before I commit to welding.
I so understand.. I ploughed through my BAS install in a day, for which I should have slowed down, but was pressured by a deadline.

Deadlines suck. Keep that montra going! :agree:
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  #28  
Old August 20th 2004, 17:27
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Bill K. Bill K. is offline
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Wings on, ready to fly

Mounted fenders, doors, and bumpers. Fenders and bumpers are rough mounted for now since I'm sending it back for paint touch-up next week. Rear stance is a little off after switching to 944 torsion bars, but not bad for first try. I'll dial-in the spacers I need this weekend after ripping it around a bit to settle the suspension.



More pictures:
Rear end
Front side
Front end

Last edited by Bill K.; October 23rd 2004 at 10:33.
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  #29  
Old August 20th 2004, 21:34
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glad you went monotone. looking really good. got my setrab today. so i will be fitting tomorrow. and pulling my engine again. did i say...augh.
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  #30  
Old August 20th 2004, 22:55
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Bill K. Bill K. is offline
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External oil cooler fittings

It took me a few trips to get the fittings right for the Setrab install. Here's what finally worked for me:

Oil pump outlet -- changed from Jakes 90 to a 3/8 NPT street 45 with a straight -8 Swivel Seal Earls AN hose end fitting. The 45 helps clear the return line so you can tighten the pump outlet line. Used Permatex 80631 "thread sealant w/ teflon" on all NPT thread per Jakes recommendation -- good seal, but not permanent like loctite 418.

Oil filter adapter -- the "left/left" adapter, fly cut seal surface to get a flat/square seal surface (see AC.net). Mounted in fender well at same height or higher than cooler for good drainage during oil change.

Oil filter inlet -- 90 3/8 NPT to straight hose end fitting. Spin the 90 onto the filter adapter first then do the filter outlet port.

Oil filter outlet -- straight 3/8 NPT to male AN with a 90 hose end

Oil cooler inlet/outlet -- straight 3/8 NPT to male AN with a 45 hose end. Originally, I went with straight hose ends to/from the cooler but did not like the strain that bending the tube put on the fittings, so I went with the 45's.

Case return -- straight 3/8 NPT to male AN with a straight hose end fitting.

Hose -- Auto-Flex, 10' -- had about 30" extra. Protected the hose with 7/8 ID fire braid over the header.

Hope it goes well for you Zen. It'll be ALOT easier with the engine out. Easy access results in better quality.
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