Where I'm at so far... - Page 9

**NO_H2O** · #**121** October 22nd 2006, 21:06

yep mine was that thick on the bottom. I bought it off the self and brought it home and broke 2 stirring sticks before I closed it up and took it up to lowes for a good shaking. Like I said, it is spray on bondo. You will need a big tip in your gun to shoot it.

yellow73 · #**122** October 23rd 2006, 20:04

Yeti,
Glad to hear that you are still at it. Yours is going to be an awsome car, thanks for the updates!!!!

yetibone · #**123** October 23rd 2006, 20:16

It's a good thing that primer was all gooped up in the bottom of the can on Saturday...

I just got off the phone with the fellow that painted my TR6. After he got my gallon of primer back to a homogenious liquid, he talked with the Evercoat tech rep regarding Slicksand's adhesion to acid based etch primer...a question I had after reading the label.

Turns out, it won't stick.

Since Slicksand is polyester based, it cannot get a chemical tooth into acid based primers, like body filler, and glazing putty can't. After curing, I would'ive been able to peel it off in sheets from anywhere etch primer is underneath.

So sometime before next weekend, I'll pick up some plain old 2K urethane primer.

yetibone · #**124** October 23rd 2006, 20:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellow73

Yeti,
Glad to hear that you are still at it. Yours is going to be an awsome car, thanks for the updates!!!!

Thanks Nigel. I do intend to turn this heap of anger and frustration into a drivable car one day.

**NO_H2O** · #**125** October 23rd 2006, 23:27

Will it bite the 2K after a coat of that?

yetibone · #**126** October 24th 2006, 06:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by NO_H2O

Will it bite the 2K after a coat of that?

Yeah, but they said I don't need to build the surface up that much if everythings already level, and featheredged.

yetibone · #**127** November 30th 2006, 19:16

Ok. I've 2K primed the outside, dry 220 grit blocked it all over, Slicksand primed it inside, and outside, and should be able to start blocking to finish this weekend.

Dave, you were right about the buildup of that primer. It's so thick I could hide some of the interior seams with it.

I've still got to decide on a color, but it'll be a couple of weeks to get my money right for some paint.

*After this, I'll post update threads into their corresponding forums.

**NO_H2O** · #**128** November 30th 2006, 20:13

Yep that stuff is sray-on-bondo. It won't shrink and cures very hard. In fact you better start blocking right away or it willget very hard to block. I did 3/4 of Ryan's bug the day after we shot it and waited 3-4 days to finish the other 1/4 and it took me longer to fish the last 1/4 than it took to do the first 3/4.

yetibone · #**129** November 30th 2006, 20:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by NO_H2O

Yep that stuff is sray-on-bondo. It won't shrink and cures very hard. In fact you better start blocking right away or it willget very hard to block. I did 3/4 of Ryan's bug the day after we shot it and waited 3-4 days to finish the other 1/4 and it took me longer to fish the last 1/4 than it took to do the first 3/4.

I agree. It's been 5 days since I laid that stuff down, and it's almost too hard to block with wet 320. I've found that using dry 180, or 220 works great to take it down to just above the bottom of the orange peel, and then wet sand it the rest of the way down to the bottom of the orange peel, taking out the dry 180, and 220 paper scratches at the same time. Yesterday evening I got the front decklid ready to paint in an hour and a half that way.

**NO_H2O** · #**130** December 1st 2006, 08:55

Looks like I forgot to tell you that part. I wish I had finished blocking Ryan's in the first 2 days. As far as "high build" primer goes, I love that stuff.

yetibone · #**131** December 1st 2006, 18:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by NO_H2O

Looks like I forgot to tell you that part. I wish I had finished blocking Ryan's in the first 2 days. As far as "high build" primer goes, I love that stuff.

No, you DID tell me that, I just wouldn't have been able to start blocking until days later 'cause of having to do other stuff.

yellow73 · #**132** December 8th 2006, 22:17

Yeti,
Great to see the progress....have you thought about Texas Yellow for a color......

yetibone · #**133** December 9th 2006, 18:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellow73

Yeti,
Great to see the progress....have you thought about Texas Yellow for a color......

Actually, BMW Motorsport yellow crossed my mind...but the TR6 is already that color as a base. It's a not-too-bright, not-too-dark kind of yellow that gets your attention, without burning your eyes.

At the last minute while mixing the basecoat for that, Gunter says "You want some pearl on top of this? You know...3 stage and stuff?" I said "#*@% yeah! Lets do this." So what I ended up with was a color that Gunter calls 'Silver Queen Sweet Cream Corn Yellow'

which I've grown to like considerably.

At this point, I think the Bug will either be some shade of blue, or some shade of silver.

Mikey · #**134** December 14th 2006, 01:06

Nice progress, I can't wait to see the final product.

yetibone · #**135** December 19th 2006, 20:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikey

Nice progress, I can't wait to see the final product.

I can hardly wait either.

I took in a side job for some Poorsche fundage. The gent with the '79 Westy I built an engine for this summer has employed me to overhaul a donor front axle to replace his rusty one. He also wants to install the L-Jet fuel injection on his Westy from the same donor Bus.

That should give me enough to buy the paint, bumpers, body and window seals, and maybe taillight covers too.

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