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  #16  
Old February 12th 2011, 02:30
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Hi

A friend had a had a PWR air 2 water inter cooler that he wanted to sell, as it was too big for his project. Its a 6 inch by 10 inch unit which is rated to 650 hp. Needless to say, its ideal for my car. I have mapped out the charge air path with green arrows.

I finished the inter cooler pipe work today, Brad a Westside Mufflers in Padstow did a great job with aluminium welding, I will only need to plumb in a blow off valve now. Now I can concentrate on getting a firewall made up to cover all this stuff up. It made it much easier working with everything exposed this way. The back seat will need to have a bit of a hump in it. I will be using the Grocco water pump from my old yellow car and a Subaru RX intercooler radiator in the front of the car. As you can see the charge air will have a very short path.

This is the Grocco water pump from the yellow bug, which I will be reusing to circulate the water in the inter cooler system.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Sprite_48.jpg (80.1 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg PA270055.jpg (83.9 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg PA270057.jpg (84.1 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg PB100069.jpg (84.9 KB, 40 views)
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  #17  
Old February 12th 2011, 02:33
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Hi

1303 or L bugs as they are called in Australia, have a history of body damage being caused when the circlip that holds the bonnet/hood falls off. To overcome this problem I drilled out the original circlip stud and fitted a bolt instead. This is fairly easy on passenger side, but on the drivers side I needed to cut a larger hole with a hole saw.

Steve
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File Type: jpg PA210052.jpg (45.7 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg PA210054.jpg (45.4 KB, 47 views)
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  #18  
Old February 12th 2011, 06:52
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As Im running a bit of angle on my CVs I had the 944 stubs altered to take 930 CVs.

I was going to use some replica Porsche 17x7.5 23ET wheels that I bought on Ebay. The 23 ET is an unusual offset, I believe that these were made to suit early 911s and 944s as a 7 inch Fuchs or Cookie cutter has the same ET. So these wheels being a 7.5 they protrude an extra 6 mm each side of a 7 inch Fuchs.

On my old 1302 I used to run 7x16 23ET inch Fuchs on the front and 8x16 10.6ET on the rear. I know the fronts will be OK, so after adding in the wider track that the rear alloy 944 arms give me and doing some calculations with an online wheel offset calculator, I worked out that these wheels should fit OK. I did a trial fit today with an Aero mudguard held in place and it all looks OK.
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File Type: jpg 944_930_flanges.jpg (82.7 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg 17x7.5.2.jpg (84.1 KB, 60 views)
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  #19  
Old February 12th 2011, 06:59
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I planned to put a Beesting radio aerial on the roof from a late model VW, but I was worried about future access to the aerial.

On the later VWs it's possible to pull the hood lining down to repair or service the aerial. That's not possible with an old bug, so I came up with the idea making a frame that will sit under the hood lining but will accept a standard Beetle interior light, so if I need to service or replace the aerial I will only need to remove to interior light to gain access to aerial securing nut.

I had a friend make these pieces up to weld into the A&B pillars to give the body some strength. I made a cross brace between the B pillars, a bit like factory cabrios use.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg beesting.1.jpg (82.0 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg beesting.jpg (77.2 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg P9060103.jpg (84.7 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg P9220106.jpg (83.5 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg P9220108.jpg (83.3 KB, 56 views)
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  #20  
Old February 12th 2011, 07:05
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As I'm getting old and soft, I'm fitting air conditioning.

The evaporator will sit in this box behind the dash, I will need to move the radio, maybe to the bottom of the dash.
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File Type: jpg PA290110.jpg (83.8 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg PA290111.jpg (85.0 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg PA300113.jpg (83.6 KB, 37 views)
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  #21  
Old February 12th 2011, 07:12
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Measuring up for some custom axles, had these wooden ones made from 30mm dowel

Brad (Westy) at Westside modified my Subi sump for me.
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File Type: jpg PA210137.jpg (72.3 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg steve sump 1.jpg (82.1 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg steve sump.jpg (81.8 KB, 32 views)
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  #22  
Old February 12th 2011, 07:24
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Gotta love Ebay, I bought some 18 inch OM (open mesh) Simmons 8 & 10 inch wide wheels, these wheels were my end game, the 17 inch Turbo Twists were a temporary solution.

I have friend who is the approved Simmons repairer, he's about 2 suburbs away from me, we've already worked out what rims I need.

I want to go 7.5s or 8s on the front, and 8 or 9s on the rear. I'm going to call my engineer soon to see if I can run 9s on the rear, I know 8s are legal, but I'm using a 1987 Porsche 944 rear end and this may allow me to go a larger wheel legally, its all about exploring RTA rules and using them to your advantage.

The other thing that I don't like is that the front Simmons wheels have the centre protruding on the edges, I will be fitting a wider outer rim on the front wheels so this will sit back in more, just like the rears do now.

So I will need to change the inner and outer on the front wheels and the inner on the rears and get the centres painted silver.

I also bought on Ebay a month or so ago a single 18x8 in the same style, so I have 5 wheels. I sold the Turbo twists on Ebay

Tyres all fitted to the refurbished wheels. Tyres are Federal 595RS-R, street legal track tyres in 225/40 ZR18s and 255/35zr18s. I had to stay with 8x40ET all round to get the car approved for road use, the rear tyres are having a muffin top moment, I might get the rear wheels taken out to 9s after its all registered and on the road
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Simmons 18.jpg (76.1 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg Simmons 18..2.jpg (61.8 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg Simmons.jpg (88.9 KB, 42 views)
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  #23  
Old February 12th 2011, 07:44
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Hi

After seeing the success that everyone is having with smaller radiators I ditched the massive one that I used in my old 1302 in favour of one from an 1983 Audi 100/200, I also already had a fan and housing from an earlier Audi 100 5E. it bolts up to that later radiator OK.

I'm happy to be going back to this Audi fan, when I used it last on my old 1302 bug, when it came on it was like blowing compressed air on the ground, chip packets, dust and sticks would blow everywhere.

The great thing about the Audi fan housing is the "speed flaps", the rubber flaps blow out at high speeds allowing more air flow over the core, when the fan comes on the flaps sit flat on the fan housing making sure than fan can draw the maximum amount of of air through the core

Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Audi rad.jpg (81.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Audi fan.jpg (84.5 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg Audi fan.1.jpg (69.2 KB, 26 views)
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  #24  
Old February 12th 2011, 07:50
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Hi

I know whale tails are not considered cool, but they do have a benefit, larger engine bay and better cooling, not mention increased downforce at high speeds. This tail also has a pod to force air into the air cleaner.

I've got the old familiar fibreglass itch, I had to cut the gills in the top.

There is another section to go on the top as well, this will be adjustable.

Steve
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File Type: jpg tail.3.jpg (75.9 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg tail.4.jpg (76.0 KB, 44 views)
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  #25  
Old February 12th 2011, 07:57
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Hi

I also fitted some Toyota Kluger side markers to the front 1/4.

One of the jobs I needed to do is fit the new "air con" front apron. As can be seen it comes with pre-installed rust, that's why I like idea of Mexican seals. Our cars nver came with air con so we never had the vented front apron used on US bugs

Steve
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File Type: jpg side marker.jpg (81.7 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg front apron.jpg (69.0 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg front apron.1.jpg (50.0 KB, 17 views)
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  #26  
Old February 12th 2011, 08:01
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Hi

I had the body soda blasted to remove the paint, I was very happy with the outcome, no surprises.

Its a very gentle process it even left the factory seam sealer in the drip rails, it wont remove rust or thick nicky.

This body has not been driven since 1983, there was no rust at all in the rear window area.

The finished photos don't do it justice, the finish looks like you see in the factory assembly line photos.

Old repairs can be seen as a different shade to the rest of the body.

I've just been around at the panel beaters rust treating all the bits I welded in firewall area with some product from Wurth, now on with pan.

Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg VW shell.6.jpg (61.3 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg VW shell.7.jpg (59.4 KB, 35 views)
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Last edited by Steve C; February 12th 2011 at 08:04. Reason: more info
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  #27  
Old February 12th 2011, 08:09
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Hi

In a previous life this car was sports sedan running a 12a rotary motor

Ther pan took a lot of work, there was about 18 holes where various things were mounted to the floor pan, roll cage, the muffler and battery were mounted on the passengers side floor with big hole in the floor where the muffler exited, these have now all been fixed up.

I had to call on expert help from Brad a Westside mufflers to weld up my alloy mirrors after I cut the attaching legs off. The mirrors need to be painted with rest of the car so Brad kindly fitted this fiddly job into his busy schedule. It was made fiddly because these early Falcon GT replica mirrors appear to be die cast and were bitch to weld.

I'm using the stock mirror mount holes and using cutdown stock mirror stalks, this way I can change mirrors without having to drill new holes in the door, I ran the same mirror stalks on my old yellow bug but with XA falcon (Mel Gibsons Road Warrior car) mirrors.

I'm fitting air con to the car, so the inlet grilles were welded up as well as the LHD wiper holes. The extra holes in the bulkhead is where the stock dash fan will draw in air.

Hows this for a rust free air box? I'm going to use the stock air box drain tube on the evaporator housing and I've fitted a smaller OD drain hose in case any moisture gets into the air box.

Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mirror.jpg (28.7 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg mirror.1.jpg (38.5 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg cooltop.3.jpg (62.4 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg cooltop.4.jpg (62.8 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg cooltop.5.jpg (54.6 KB, 30 views)
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  #28  
Old February 12th 2011, 08:13
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Hi

I relocated the brake master cylinder 30 mm to the drivers (right) side, this gives me enough room to fit a clutch master in next to it.

I now have to move the lever on the brake pedal over 30 mm as well and fit rose joint attachment to the clutch pedal to operate the clutch master cylinder.

I had Brad (aka Westy) weld some fittings on the tank. 1/2 outlet and and 2 x 3/8 return lines into the tank, while he was at it I got him to fill in the LHD part of the tank for some increased capacity, I think maybe 2 - 4 litres gain.

I bought this tank from a wrecker in about 2002 for my old yellow 1302, it was a genuine VW German replacement tank that looked almost new.

Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mc.jpg (82.4 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg mc1.jpg (41.2 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg mc2.jpg (79.5 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg ft.jpg (38.5 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg ft1.jpg (50.4 KB, 36 views)
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Last edited by Steve C; February 12th 2011 at 08:20. Reason: forgot photos
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  #29  
Old February 12th 2011, 08:26
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1st bit of paint on the body, I'm not sure if I said earlier but I went with Porsche blood orange after many test batches of paint ranging from purple to yellow.

I dug all the dreaded foam out of the shell, I've saturated the area with Lanolin and stuck wool offcuts in all the cavities.
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File Type: jpg cools.4.jpg (48.1 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg cools.5.jpg (61.7 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg cools.9.jpg (39.0 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg cools.10.jpg (38.3 KB, 48 views)
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  #30  
Old February 12th 2011, 08:34
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I had to chop the chassis up a bit to move the G50 forward 100 mm. I used 26 mm Sway away short torsion bars
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File Type: jpg chassis.1.jpg (79.0 KB, 103 views)
File Type: jpg chassis.2.jpg (68.1 KB, 97 views)
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