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Old January 13th 2004, 03:27
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boygenius boygenius is offline
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Question Chassis prep.

I have a question. I have stripped my chassis and sand blasted it to bare metal in order to apply POR-15. After degreasing the chassis I applied the metal etching spray. The entire chassis is the same dull gray color except for the drivers side floor pan which still looks like sand blasted steel.. I replaced the floor pans about two years ago and the car has been sitting ever since. Both the floor pans came from the same shop. Is there a coating on one of them. Could they be differant metals if they came from two different batches of floor pans. What should I do.
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Old January 14th 2004, 01:00
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craazy Cooter craazy Cooter is offline
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If it's riveted on, it's probably aluminum.
If it's galvanized,it's steel, you just have to blast it more.
Is it magnetic?
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Old January 15th 2004, 00:25
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Quick question. Anybody ever use POR-15 before. I just put on a coat of it and was wondering if I had to put a second coat on. If I do it says to put it on when the paint is dry to the touch with a slight finger drag. The directions also say that no sanding is required to apply a second coat unless the paint has been drying for two weeks or longer. Can I put a second coat on tommorrow night or do I have to stay up all night. Do I need a second coat. I am painting my chassis. Any information would be helpfull.
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1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM...
2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed
www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe
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Old January 28th 2004, 00:13
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OK I just finished wet sanding the top of my chassis and am getting ready to put the suspension and body back on. The question I have si what are you guys doing to seal the inside of your chassis from rust. I was thinking of a few choices.
1. tape off all the openings to my chassis and pour truck bed liner into the frame tunnel and roll the chassis to coat th entire inside of the chassis.

2. the same as above but with rubberized undercoating.

3. same as above but with paint.

4. I have some POR-15but that would be really expensive.

Please let me know what you guys think or share one of your own ideas.
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1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM...
2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed
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Old January 28th 2004, 13:10
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Racelook Racelook is offline
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I'm not at this point yet (I first makes the body also good before I paint both in one time) but I will use ML75 or Waxoil.

Waxoil site in dutch

It you surche on google you will find some links.

Greetings Wiebrand
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Old January 29th 2004, 00:16
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boygenius boygenius is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racelook
I'm not at this point yet (I first makes the body also good before I paint both in one time) but I will use ML75 or Waxoil.

Waxoil site in dutch

It you surche on google you will find some links.

Greetings Wiebrand
Waxoyl only sell to business's and not individual persons. I couldn't find an English website for ML75.
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car.
1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM...
2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed
www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe
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  #7  
Old January 30th 2004, 23:47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boygenius
OK I just finished wet sanding the top of my chassis and am getting ready to put the suspension and body back on. The question I have si what are you guys doing to seal the inside of your chassis from rust. I was thinking of a few choices.
1. tape off all the openings to my chassis and pour truck bed liner into the frame tunnel and roll the chassis to coat th entire inside of the chassis.

2. the same as above but with rubberized undercoating.

3. same as above but with paint.

4. I have some POR-15but that would be really expensive.

Please let me know what you guys think or share one of your own ideas.

Anymore ideas. :help:

I don't know what method would be best.
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car.
1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM...
2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed
www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe
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Old January 31st 2004, 02:46
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Shadowbug Shadowbug is offline
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I've has great success with epoxy paint, since its a chemical cure, you can layer it on thick and it'll still harden up.

I did my pan with an epoxy primer and a marine enamel, spilled brake fluid on it and the enamel blistered and came right off, but the primer was solid as anything.

did a buddys pan with same epoxy primer and a gloss black epoxy top coat, looked very nice and was impossible to chip, definatly the route I'd recommend.
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  #9  
Old January 31st 2004, 19:21
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boygenius boygenius is offline
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Hmmmmmm. So I should use the POR-15 then. It's an epoxy paint.
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car.
1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM...
2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed
www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe
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  #10  
Old February 2nd 2004, 00:38
hybrid_john hybrid_john is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boygenius
Hmmmmmm. So I should use the POR-15 then. It's an epoxy paint.
sounds like a plan Brendan, let me know how it works out for you! I'm not TOO close to being able to painting the pan yet so, I'd like to know



John
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  #11  
Old February 2nd 2004, 00:56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid_john
sounds like a plan Brendan, let me know how it works out for you! I'm not TOO close to being able to painting the pan yet so, I'd like to know



John

I should be done with the painting in a few weeks. I have to wait untill I get my kafer cup brace in so I can weld on the frame horn brackets. Should get the brace in the next three weeks. The paint that is left over is going in the frame tunnel and my friend and I are going to spin the chassis carefully. Although I will save some paint for unexpected projects.
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car.
1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM...
2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed
www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe
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