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  #46  
Old January 31st 2007, 17:44
Veedub Veedub is offline
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EvilAngel, I asked some people over in the CLF forumabout the combo of the 1776/2007 we are wanting, if I can say we
And they said that the L5 heads would be overkill with a 1776cc but with a 2007 it would be fine.
Anyway I got a combo from them for a 1904cc which is 90.5x74
90.5 stroker pistons (not sure if there forged though, from thesamba is where they said to get them)- found some for 148.00
Ceramic coated 1 5/8 header exhaust (from thesamba)- 155.00
74mm DPR crankshaft (from thesamba)- 250.00
VW Journal I-Beam forged con-rods (from thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 75.00
VW journal bearings (thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 8.00
Chromoly Gland nut 36mm, 42mm, 44mm (thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 12.00
044 Super Mag CNC Round Port Heads w/ 40x35.5 S/S valves (42x37 is optional) CNC porting, Dual Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers, Hardened Valve locks- 605.95 for pair
Stock flywheel (if you want a new one) - 63.95
Eagle Racing cam- Adv Duration .286"/ Dur. @ .050" .240"/ Lift @ Cam .430"/ Lift w/ 1.1:1 rocker arms .473 (equal to and Engle W110) - 74.95
High Compacity 1.5qt Oil Sump- 69.99

There was a few guys there that say CB Performances heads were the best, and also told me not to cheap out on stuff i cant spend 800 bucks for a crank, sorry my budget wont allow me to, even though i am single. thats just to much to me.

PS. I still think the sec. combo i made seems better, i donno, theres could be better though.
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  #47  
Old February 1st 2007, 01:42
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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Well i think that's a nice combo. However, i'd add a chromoly lightened flywheel to your selection. I agree that spending 800 bucks for a crank is just silly, only makes sense if you have extremely deep pockets, which we don't. CB is known for having excellent heads, really among the very best, and i believe thos 044s will be as good as it gets for what we want. For a 1904 i would have a engle 120 or equivalent with 1.1:1 rockers, and dont forget the rocker arm thingies (cant remember the name right now) they look like screws, and you'll have to upgrade them as well. The main advantage of the 1904 is that it will run cooler than a 2007 and yet it'll be much torquier than a 1776. You may run a higher CR on a 1904, sacrificing some heat to get a little more power. I have a friend with a 1904, and he says it's a very nice combo. He beats mustang gt's at the dragstrip with that. And it's his daily driver
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #48  
Old February 1st 2007, 01:47
Veedub Veedub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilAngel View Post
Well i think that's a nice combo. However, i'd add a chromoly lightened flywheel to your selection. I agree that spending 800 bucks for a crank is just silly, only makes sense if you have extremely deep pockets, which we don't. CB is known for having excellent heads, really among the very best, and i believe thos 044s will be as good as it gets for what we want. For a 1904 i would have a engle 120 or equivalent with 1.1:1 rockers, and dont forget the rocker arm thingies (cant remember the name right now) they look like screws, and you'll have to upgrade them as well. The main advantage of the 1904 is that it will run cooler than a 2007 and yet it'll be much torquier than a 1776. You may run a higher CR on a 1904, sacrificing some heat to get a little more power. I have a friend with a 1904, and he says it's a very nice combo. He beats mustang gt's at the dragstrip with that. And it's his daily driver

beating mustangs? wow that would be nice. Using a 74mm crank would you by chance know what all he needed to do to the motor to get that crank in? The 90.5mm pistons I know would take machine work but the 74 crank i was told is just a slip in, but how true that is, is a question I'm wondering.
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  #49  
Old February 1st 2007, 01:52
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Well he said he had to do just a little bit of clerancing, but for what i've read it depends on the crank. Some will slip in, some will need clearance. It depends on the size of the couterweights
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #50  
Old February 1st 2007, 01:58
Veedub Veedub is offline
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What you mean by the counterweights? Im still learning
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  #51  
Old February 1st 2007, 02:01
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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The parts of metal just opposite to the journals, across the "center" of the crank. Just don't know i i made myself clear
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #52  
Old February 1st 2007, 02:03
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ok i think.. lol Im not sure either.
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  #53  
Old February 1st 2007, 02:15
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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On the atachment, two are pointed with arrows and one is circled
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Dibujo.JPG (10.3 KB, 15 views)
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #54  
Old February 1st 2007, 02:34
Veedub Veedub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilAngel View Post
On the atachment, two are pointed with arrows and one is circled
ahh ok i got you now, i was thinking you were talking about those but wasnt sure.
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  #55  
Old February 2nd 2007, 00:16
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Anyone know if dual 44mm kadrons would be about the same, performance wise as dual 40IDF's? I know one is a single barrel and the others a 2 barrel, just I was wondering since the 44mm kadrons are modified and beefed up 40mm Kadrons.
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  #56  
Old February 2nd 2007, 02:36
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I think they're equivalent, but being 2BB, the webers will offer higher performance... at a price. BTW, my mustang-beating friend has Kads.
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #57  
Old February 2nd 2007, 02:43
Veedub Veedub is offline
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Yeah Im thinking of getting a set of Kads, there ALOT cheaper than Webers.
Oh, also on that note...umm new pics of my bug will be coming soon, I get my tax returns in couple weeks and when that comes, im going to go buy the stuff I need to make my bug driveable at least, then as time goes i'll start addding stuff to improve handling, a bit off topics but what would you recomend to improve handling, along with using 15x4.5's with 195/60's(im going to stay with them for a while)?
Also if you know, what combo does your friend have done to his motor, id like to have mustang catching power just to say hey i can keep up with your stang?
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  #58  
Old February 2nd 2007, 18:06
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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Is your car swingaxle or IRS? Im assuming it's a std, not a super
For handlig in my 90 std, swingaxle rear, ball joint front, i am going to add a camber compensator in the rear and a beefy swaybar in the front. Also im gonna use gas shocks in the rear, and hydraulic shocks in the front. Im also using dropped spindles (just arrived today ) and discs all around. Then i'm gonna go for fat tires.

My friend has a 74mm forged chromoly crank, 90.5 cimas, P&P stock heads with 43 x 37.5 valves, engle 120 cam, bosch 009 dist, 2 kadrons (dont know which # though) external oil cooler, high flow fuel pump, that rocker thing which name i still can't remember, and teflon piston locks. Stock doghouse, and lightened flywheel. Oh and he has a vw 1500 tranny
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake

Last edited by EvilAngel; February 2nd 2007 at 18:12.
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  #59  
Old February 5th 2007, 00:20
Veedub Veedub is offline
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Yes my bug has IRS and also its a standard.
I was looking at the possibilities of a turbocharged motor, like a 1600cc,1776cc or and 1835cc.I read that there really reliable with a turbo, and good on gas if its a daily driver.Lowbugget has a under the decklid turbokit for the bug that looks pretty nice.Does anyone know of any other site that sells a turbo kit for the bug?
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  #60  
Old February 5th 2007, 01:20
Veedub Veedub is offline
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just curious so I'll ask about this setup...
Hopefully someone on here can answer it
Machine in 88mm pistons and cylinders (forged if they exist as and option)
DPR 74mm Chromoly forged c/w crank
Lowbuggets 1.4:1 forfed rockers
Lowbuggets LBC Cam and billet lifters
Lowbuggets 1600T kit
Heads..........I cant find any

Do 88mm bore hi po heads exist in the aftermarket or would I have to special order them?
By the way it would be and 1800cc motor....I can go rip a 1.8T badge off some guys Jetta
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