#106
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Than you're lucky ... (if you have not overread something)
In Holland you may not change or weld on "wielgeleidingselementen" so you may not weld/change the control arms. That's also why I don't have an A-armand hopefully I will go through the yearly check without changing everything. Wiebrand
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B-Extreme B-Tuning..... Racebug is comming to get ya!!! |
#107
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HEHEHE.. Finally an little update!!
Had found some sparetime on second christmasday (before the family-stuff begun). At 10am got the drill and angle grinder together to start working, with the following result: First begun to make al the welds of the napoleonhead and the chassishead "clear". Than noteded soem measurements. After that drilled some spotwelds and cut the napoleonhead of. Then cut away the other pieces and that givese this result. After some grinding it looked like this. The underplate of the chassishead is temperwarely on this place, as "mold" for the napoleonhead. After the napoleonhead is welded the hole underplate will be changed.
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#108
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The "tubes" on the outsides of the head are extra welded, the inside is maked clear and painted with sincspray.
And an testfit. (it's not totally ready but this is how it would look like) http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/22043.jpg Also the underplate of the chassishead is maked clear, the nuts are extra welded and all is sprayed with sinc. This all done in 5 hours and 24 minutes Smile And quick the differents of the excisting napoelonheads. Top: The cut away one Middle: Napoleonhead for the "older" type of bugs Bottom: Napoleonhead for 1303 Greetings Wiebrand p.s. sorry for the bad english
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#109
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Very nice work Wieb! Please do keep it up, as too many projects are abandoned half-way lately
The comparison of the 12/1300 'Napoleon's hat' with that of the 1302/03 is very interesting: Apart from the mounting position of the brake master cylinder, are the dimensions the same on the outside? If so, the 12/1300 position of the M/C offers more aftermarket possibilities (Kerscher/Audi)... Just a thought. Greetings, Walter |
#110
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Quote:
I had heard this last week also. The 1200/1300 napoleonhat has the MC ready to fit an Porsche MC. But an 1200/1300 hat is way smaller (minder diep..) than an 1303 hat. And the fitment at the ends of the napoleonhats are different. Also the price of an 1303 hat is WAY DIFFERENT (read: expensive )... Have already worked on the hat last friday. SO the 1303 hat is going on hopefully tommorow (if I be not TOO drunk tonight ). Wiebrand
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#111
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SOOOOOOOOOO everybody ready for another update??!!!
Friday morning had some time to remove some pieces of the old napoleonhat so the new one could fit nicelly. Some bending, some hitting with the hammer and it fits. This afternoon at an hour or 2 (p.m) starting working again on the bug (it was an hard day yesterday evening... Beer... LOL :wink: ). At first drilled holes in the edge of the napoleonhat so I could weld it on the chassis. After some measuring welded in the hat. After that started on the underplate of the chassishead. The spotwelds hitted with the centerpons and drilled through. http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/22366.jpg
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#112
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At an hour or half past five it was like this.
With this as the rusty cut-out pieces. Also tonight from 20.45 till 22.45 worked on the car and this is how it looks till now. pfff what is my car an rotten piece of ****.. I just can't believe it every time... from the outside you see nothing but from the inside it's became 3mm thicker :twisted: . Wiebrand
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B-Extreme B-Tuning..... Racebug is comming to get ya!!! |
#113
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Yeah, if its any concellation: been there, done that too (but it was already some 15 years ago ).
I replaced the entire bottom of the front chassis with the same new piece thats available for it and what you have inthe above picture. Nice new 2,0 mm thick piece of metal. Even cut and rewelded the center reaction arm mountings to weld it in as one piece. While I was there, I also welded in a boxed frame for more stiffness of the front chassis, which is s/th the 1303 can really use, when you go circuit racing with it later . So, just hang in there! Someday it WILL be finished and you'll own one of only a few really thorrowly restored and improved 1303's. |
#114
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Quote:
Of that boxed frame... I also thought of something. But my brother find and boxed frame too stiff, he would only weld in some heavy plate. Can you give me some more info on how and where you have welded it?? Maybe some high-tech collour pics of that?? Greetings WIebrand p.s. someone some other ideas of what I can do now to more "upgrading" the front mounting of the arms / chassis at this point???
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#115
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Sorry But I am sure, you can figure out the most logical and most strength given way to weld in some bars, just like I did. Just make sure you can still easily direct your oil lines and such (like the shift rod!!) through the tunnel after the bars or s/th have been welded in. Just don''t overdo it. It then only adds weight. Good luck, Walter |
#116
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Another update:
Today I worked from 9.30 AM till 10.15 PM on the car. And I got to say that it started to look something (the chassis Smile ) but I sadly didn't had the time to weld the underplate in. At first I drawed the lines were I cut the other piece of underplate out. I've done it this way so I wouldn't change the geometry of the front controlarms. Then I brushed the inside of the chassishead clean with the grinder, sandbalsted some pieces and cut out the "tubes" for mounting the "stabilisatorstang". http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/22474.jpg
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#117
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After that made the new underplate in the good "shape".
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/22476.jpg Inside of the chassishead in the sinckspray http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/22478.jpg At last tonight, welded the "tubes" on the front en welded in some strenghting plate for the mounting of the "stabilisatorstang". I didn't welded in extra braces into the head (what wanted to do first) because I think they haven't much benefit (the underplate is already 2mm thick) and it would be an hell to mount the shiftingtube
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#118
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Nice work, by the way ""stabilisatorstang" = stabilisor or torsion bar.
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#119
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Hi
Nice work, was your old napoleonhat rusty as well, is that why you replaced it? Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#120
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Quote:
Yes underside at the "napoleonhat" and the leftside (as seen on the right side of above pics) was verry rotten. That is the only reason why I replace it (otherwise I would be painting by now ). Oeps sorry.. this above is for the underplate of the chassishead. The napoleonhat is replaced also because it was totally rotten at the ends (alsmost 15 cm from each end).. Wiebrand
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