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  #436  
Old March 13th 2013, 20:50
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Yes, the etch "metal ready" or new name "prep and ready" is made to prep surface before coatings are applied, but the POR-15 was originally made to react with rusty metal, and I never had luck with it sticking to "good" metal. I did the same thing you did 10 years ago
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  #437  
Old April 30th 2013, 16:14
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Whew...it's been a while since I've updated, and unfortunately not a lot of photos. I've been distracted, but we'll get to that.

The car was essentially trouble free all of March and April, until two weeks before the Hagerty Spring Thaw. I clogged a jet on the way home from Whistler one day, and despite cleaning it out had some serious tuning issues coming back from a parts run (which is about 2hrs each way for me). The tailpipes were showing lean, the wide-band was showing lean, but the plugs looked good. WTF? I hadn't changed any jets...just cleaned them. I worked on some tuning off and on, but was getting very strange results. I'd change the main jets, but the idle mixture would change. I'd move up three jet sizes (in steps) and the first two would show logical changes while the third would blow the wide-band off the scale in some strange way. This was all happening in the final week before the Spring Thaw. My business partner and I were working long hours to make sure everything goes off perfectly at the event. I'd get an hour or two for tuning, get no results, and have to get back to pre-organizing duties. It was incredibly frustrating.

Finally I decided to go all the way back to the beginning. Well, actually the car decided for me when it blew out an exhaust gasket (again). The car went up on axle stands, and I made plans to adjust the valves, set the timing, start with a set of base jets (by the math), fix the exhaust gaskets and try again. The heads had been fully reworked in November by Darren (K-Roc Heads), so I was really confused why every single valve was tight. I was exhausted, so when I popped on the 3/4 valve cover, removed the paper towel on the heater box and was met with a piece of valve spring…



Really?



Darren and I chatted, and we both realized that I have almost 80,000 miles on this set of springs. More then double what either of us would have suspected. While they were fine in November, clearly that wasn't the case anymore. Thankfully Darren had put dual-springs into my heads many years ago, so when the outer spring failed, He offered me his on-car replacement tool, and had a full set of dual valve springs ready for me…two hours away. Good thing too:



While driving to get the valve springs, I realized my valve adjustment issue. In my stress of organizing and lack of sleep, I had neglected to consider that I have chromoly pushrods and thus adjust to loose-zero, not .006"! Whoops. With springs and exhaust gaskets installed, valves adjusted and timing reset, I cleaned the carbs…finding mud in the choke area which isn't used by the Empi HPMX version. Mud eh? Hmmm. Don't let anyone tell you I'm easy on equipment.



Well, with that cleaned out I started tuning for lean-best-idle…and still had exhaust popping. Soon a hairline 2" crack was spotted, and off came the apron & exhaust. It would seem that at some point an impact resulted in a crack on the muffler at the #2 inlet (actually on the little pipe sticking out of the muffler to the flange. The resulting movement probably attributed to the gasket failure issues I was having earlier this season. It was 11pm, but my buddy Scott still took it home, welded it up, and brought it back. Killer service, and help from a buddy who leaves for work at 6am. It was too late to tune, but not too late to get a good night sleep.

Amazing how easy the tuning is when there aren't a bazillion other problems causing weird results! Within two hours I had lean-best-idle, idle jets set, mains sorted and the airs figured out. My AFR numbers were spot on everywhere except for a lean condition when cruising at 3000-3200rpm. While I knew Darren and Geoff were going bat-**** crazy with all my calls and texts regarding tuning, I was at a loss. The RPM range said it should be mains, but changing them didn't help and made other things worse. Maybe a combination of Airs and Mains? changing didn't seem to get the results I needed. A final text sent to Darren (with crossed fingers) and a suggestion came back "go one up on the idle jets". I did, and what you know. Running fantastic for the Spring Thaw…with 20 hours to spare!

-Dave
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  #438  
Old May 1st 2013, 12:07
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cool story and great dedication - i love reading your posts!
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  #439  
Old May 1st 2013, 12:07
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oh - and those springs are crazy! could have been a whole lot worse!
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  #440  
Old May 1st 2013, 18:03
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Darren said to me while I was picking up the new springs "best thing about dual valve springs? If you break a spring, the inner spring usually holds the valve so you don't destroy the engine." THANK GOODNESS he had upgraded my heads to dual springs many years ago. Geesh.

-Dave
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  #441  
Old May 1st 2013, 21:09
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Good story (and meme pic), though when you're going through it you're not really thinking about the later re-tellings Good to hear the car's running great, and you should get us some in car video of the next event
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  #442  
Old May 1st 2013, 21:57
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Actually...That meme photo I pulled off my phone for this post. I made it when I found the valve spring and sent it via Text to Darren (who does my headwork).

:-P

-Dave
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  #443  
Old May 2nd 2013, 07:46
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Did you check for coil bind when the springs were installed? The longer springs may have been bound up when the valve was full open.
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  #444  
Old May 2nd 2013, 15:20
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Indeed! Coil bind was checked for when I originally built the motor, and again in November when I had the heads off. The old springs show no marks of coil bind, and the new springs (same brand/model) were checked and cleared without issues. We are attributing the failure to a combination of mileage, abuse, and a WOT over-rev the other night while tuning.

-----------

I mentioned that I've been distracted, and hence haven't posted much about the work on the car. I actually have some other upgrades and items added to post about, just haven't had the time. I've been playing with a new toy, a 1974 Dodge Colt stage rally car. It's owned by a good friend, and was purchased with a blown motor and tranny. I've been storing the car for a few years (he lives in the states, is a professional rally driver), and he finally said we should get this thing ready to rally. Over the past couple of months we've installed a new motor and trans, I've rebuild the trans, had a dashboard fire, re-wired the whole damned car and finally got it tuned and running. We were out testing at DirtFish Rally School on Monday, and the car is a BLAST. Still need to upgrade the seats, belts, cage and paint...then it's ready for stage rally.



Here's the thing, when the owner isn't using it...he wants me to Rally it. Stage rally, rallyX, etc. if it's just going to be sitting, it might as well be used. Hmmmm. So basically I now have a full stage rally car in my collection of vehicles. Suddenly destroying the beetle further with gravel is a less enticing idea. I mean, why would I shred paint on the beetle when I can just use the Colt?



I'm seriously considering working on the suspension this summer, and setting the beetle up as more of a Tarmac-Rally car. We've got our www.classicccaradventures.com events every year, and I'd probably still pop the suspension back up for winter events. The Colt is too damned loud inside for anything but Stage rally.

Thinking Coil-overs on the front, perhaps wider wings (and rubber), a Kamei front spoiler and it should be good. Tarmac rally and track car...???

-Dave
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  #445  
Old May 2nd 2013, 19:50
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Hi

Those cars were called Mitsubishi Lancer down here, in the day they were a real force in rallying, I remember seeing Andrew Cowan http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrew_Cowan competing in one in the Southern Cross rally in the 70s.

Steve
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  #446  
Old June 9th 2013, 16:15
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I've been pretty busy with various jobs and haven't had much time for playing with cars, a problem which is compounded by the fact that I've got the Beetle, the Colt, an Audi Coupe quattro and a new Chevy pickup truck all on the go. The Salzburg Beetle has had some ups and downs over the past while, and I'll try and document what I can.

First up, I finally got around to mounting a co-driver footrest in the car. I had planned on machining up a unit which would have two rails permanently mounted to the floor, and a moveable panel (for different height co-drivers), but the crunch time to get the car ready in time for Spring Thaw meant I went with an OMP pre-formed panel. Of course, I'm not happy with the way it sits...so it will come out of the car soon enough for some changes. Basically, the angle isn't "right", and in order to sit correctly it needs to be trimmed to clear the tunnel and the inner fender.


Next up, and far more of a fun toy, is my Shift-I progressive shift light. You would think, in a car that is so loud you need hearing protection, that paying attention to the revs is easy. The problem, I've found, is that after a certain point its all just noise and volume...and you can't distinguish well enough between various levels of RPM. I saw this unit at my local race supply shop, and took a gamble. Such a good call! It's fully programmable for RPM range, light patterns, brightness and more. One button turns it on or off while driving, so I only use it when I'm 'having fun', thus ensuring my brain doesn't get so used to it that I ignore it. I've found it gives me two main advantages: I'm finding it much easier to keep the engine within the torque curve and I'm not risking an over-rev when playing in the upper rev limits. The one I bought has four green lights on the left, followed by two yellows and one red. I set mine up so the four greens are progressive, then the greens go out as the two yellows come on, and finally the yellow and red flash as you hit the limit. Incredibly hard to miss...but not distracting either. http://www.ecliptech.com.au/index.ph...=59&Itemid=109


On the bad news side of things, I'm still struggling with burning out exhaust gaskets. To say I've beaten the pulp out of the exhaust system would be an understatement. I think most users would look at the condition of my muffler and assume it's only good for scrap metal. I have noticed that the last set of gaskets I blew out were about 3 days after I bottomed the muffler out on something...even though it was lightly. I now suspect that physical damage is starting the process, and it takes a few hundred kilometers for blow-by to damage the gaskets to the point I can hear them. Once I hear the change in exhaust note, or notice the wideband reading leaner, I get about 50km before the gasket blows out completely. The answer, unfortunately, is probably a whole new exhaust system and to extend the skid plate (or skid plate system) back to protect the exhaust as well.

The second set of bad news involves the oiling system. Three times in the past month I've experienced a zero-oil pressure situation where the car will lose oil pressure at idle and then I can't prime the system back up. I end up loosening off oil fitting and cranking the starter over while slowly working the oil through the system segment by segment. The first time it repressurized in relatively short order (about 30min of work), but just this week I lost pressure twice on one day and it took 1 hour and 2 hours (respectively) to get the car back up and running. Really quite frustrating...but thanks to some things I noticed on the second time, I think I have a theory. I have the cold-idle set relatively low on the car, its at about 500rpm, sometimes less. This corresponds to a hot idle of about 1000rpm. At low RPM I don't *think* the scavenge pump is moving enough oil back up to the tank. Eventually on Friday, while I was trying to prime the system, I realized that the tank had less then 1/8th of oil, and the motor was over-full. Hmmm.... I put an extra litre into the tank, took a risk and revved the motor to 1500rpm (with no pressure). Instantly I could hear the scavange oil splashing back into the tank and in less then 20seconds the oil light was out. So, I think the issue is two-fold:

• First off, I'm not watching the oil level in the tank often enough.
• Secondly, the scavenge pump isn't pulling enough oil at sub 1,000rpms

The combination of the two means that there isn't enough oil in the system to allow the car to idle cold at low RPM…and I lose oil pressure. Repressurizing the system from full oil loss takes about 2.5 complete minutes of cranking (assuming oil in the tank, coil disconnected), which I can't imagine is too kind to the bearings. I'm going to redo the venting on the tank which will allow me to run a higher oil level (additional one or two Litres) and keep a closer eye on things.

I am worried about the likely damage I've done to the bearings in the current motor. At hot oil pressure I'm down a full 10psi from where I was two months ago. I now see 40psi at 3500rpm instead of the 50psi I was seeing earlier. It's not low enough to pull the motor immediately, but it's something to be concerned about for sure. It could be the electric gauge/sensor, however. The mechanical gauge on the Accusump used to match exactly, but now they are 5psi different (Accusump being 5psi higher). Again, no emergency...but something to watch for sure.

Back to the Good News! If you haven't already seen the June 2013 Issue of UltraVW, you may want to go pickup a copy. Okay, I'm probably a little biased…but hey, six page feature on my car!





Stoked to finally have a magazine feature I can give to family and friends who don't speak Japanese or French! Makes oil system issues a little easier to deal with.

-Dave
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  #447  
Old June 9th 2013, 18:51
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Man, lots of ups and downs, but hopefully you have the oil issue sorted out. Any reason you're not running a higher cold idle? I can't speak to unkindly because I do the same thing, 900-ish cold and 1300-1400 hot.

Congrats on the magazine feature!
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  #448  
Old June 9th 2013, 19:42
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Thanks!

No good reason for a low cold idle...I simply set it where I wanted it on a hot engine, and let the cold idle end up where it may. Might bump the hot idle up to 1200rpm and see where that gets me on the cold.

-Dave
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  #449  
Old June 10th 2013, 04:52
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Congrats on the magazine feature. Every car guy wants to see their ride covered in print.
I am sure you will sort the oiling system out. What size lines are you running for supply and return to/from the tank? The Herbie X was my first try at a dry sump system. Ended up with -10 to and from the tank and -8 for the rest of the system. Also the oil level had to be checked with the engine running at (warmed up) idle. After that it was good to go.
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  #450  
Old June 10th 2013, 08:12
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Its good to know that there are also other Porsche Salzburg maniacs out there.

We will start our new car during the winter time.
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