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  #1  
Old March 5th 2006, 22:47
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wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
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Aluminum trailing arms mocked up!

Hey guys, I got some time this weekend to tear out my old rear, and slap on the new one(trailing arms that is). I'm happier with the spacing on the rear, than what happened on the front(wheels inch and a half in from the fender lip ). The rear is alot closer about 3/4 of an inch. I have 2in. wider rear fenders with '87 trailing arms and 9x16 ET70 993 wheels(see pics). When I get my cup bar I can space my shocks. This is all still mock-up with no motor so can't set ride level yet. Just thought I'd share my progress. I get so much motivation from this site it's unreal!
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
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Old March 11th 2006, 20:38
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LOAF LOAF is offline
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wrench

I was about to start a new post, but I figure I will tap into your knowledge..

Do you have a step by step on removing the old spring plates..

I have the "special tool" as an FYI.

I removed the four bolts while having some tension on the arm, but after thinking it over decided to put everything back..

HELP....

Loaf

BTW how did you get your arms so sparkling..Beautiful
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Old March 12th 2006, 22:11
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are the aluminum arms lighter than the stock steel ones?
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Old March 13th 2006, 00:45
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wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
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Hey Guys, sorry I haven't responded yet, but I just got back home two hours ago. This weekend was the first VW events of the season down south. I got to meet some of the VKG guys at both events. From who I talked to, they are easy going and helpful guys.

As for the trailing arm weight difference, I'm not sure, as my old stuff was removed with CVs axles and drum brakes still together. If I had to guess, the ali arms might be a little lighter.

LOAF, if you have the spring plate tool, its pretty safe IMO. The hardest part is getting the spring plate far enough over to let the tension off it. You only need to get the spring plate up enough with the tool to allow the spring plate to move outward. I used two pry bars, one on top, and one on the bottom up next to the torsion housing. Only work the spring plate over enough to drop past the stop it was resting on! If you go too far, it might get ugly fast!

If you are using the 944 torsion bars like I did, then you won't have too much trouble putting them on. The stock type I torsion bars use more preload, so they are harder to deal with setting up. There's more to setting the preload and ride height, but you only asked about removing them . It sounds like you may need that help as well. If you can find the HOT VWs Totally Tech special issue from 2002, get it. There is alot of helpful info for your whole ride in there.

Later,
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
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Old March 13th 2006, 09:41
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Wrench,

That is the exact issue I was having. I got the coverplate off, then was struggling with clearing the spring plate from the stop.

If you can help me with a few other questions, I would appreciate it.

I have heard people use longer bolts on the spring plate cover so that one of the bolts acts as a stop and to ensure I don't pull the plate out to far, did you do this also.

Also did you remove the trailing arm first?

Do you recall what size allen wrench is used to remove the trailing arm from the chasis (inboard one)

I think that covers it. Did you happen to take pics of the uninstall

I may have that issue. Need to dig into the pile of old mags and take a look

But Thanks
Loaf
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Old March 13th 2006, 23:45
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LOAF,

You should be able to back out the bolts on the cover plates enough to get the spring plate over the side of the stop. Using the spring plate tool you shouldn't have to worry about using a longer bolt to stop the spring plate anyway.

I did remove the trailing arms first, but you can just let them hang by the pivot bolt. The allen wrench is a 17mm. Make sure and check to see if the bolt heads aren't held by peened over tabs. The factory put about three notches around the bolt head to peen surrounding metal into them. Just use a small punch and hammer to un-peen them.
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
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Old March 14th 2006, 09:40
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Thanks..

Will look out for those bolts.. are those the pivot joint bolts or on the spring plate..

Alex
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  #8  
Old March 14th 2006, 23:32
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wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
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LOAF, The pivot bolts are the only ones peened, if thats what your talking about. If you have a Bentley shop manual for your ride, the suspension section tells you some good info. I think even a Haynes manual has some info too.
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
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  #9  
Old March 14th 2006, 23:52
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Crystal..

Thanks, I always forget to reference those bibles.. its like the last place I check, instead of the first..
Always the hard way.
Loaf
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