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  #1  
Old May 7th 2010, 16:35
SCCAbeetle SCCAbeetle is offline
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Going junk diving

I have a 70 non super beetle.

The area I live in has enough junkyards to keep me picking and pulling until rapture.

What kinda goodies should I look for?
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  #2  
Old May 7th 2010, 19:49
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Karman Ghia front beam, for the disc brake setup.
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  #3  
Old May 10th 2010, 04:50
vwnewb88 vwnewb88 is offline
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type 3 rear drums, i think would work on your beetle


got any rust on your bug? or if you wanted to shave your door handles, snag a filler piece from a door
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Old May 10th 2010, 08:50
SCCAbeetle SCCAbeetle is offline
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Nah there is really not a lot of rust.

The plan that I have is first I am going to work out the bugs (no pun intended) in my car, and then after that install a wasserboxer.
After that, I would like to SERIOUSLY work on the suspension.

Eventually, turbo, restoration, really nice interior, cage and call it a poor mans porsche.

I was debating getting a disk brake kit all together.
Why the ghia front beam?
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  #5  
Old May 10th 2010, 15:21
vwnewb88 vwnewb88 is offline
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ghia's are disc cheap effective way to convert
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Old May 10th 2010, 15:36
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Depending on how far you want to go with mods, if they have any 944/951's there, grab brakes, m/c, trailing arms, sway bars, etc.
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  #7  
Old May 10th 2010, 20:25
SCCAbeetle SCCAbeetle is offline
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Alright.

Does it matter if its a 944 turbo?
Does a regular beetle handle well enough to autocross, I am not shooting for wins just for fun
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Old May 11th 2010, 06:43
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Originally Posted by SCCAbeetle View Post
Alright.

.............Does a regular beetle handle well enough to autocross, ..............
Now where do you want to start..................?
Clive
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Old May 11th 2010, 10:44
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Originally Posted by SCCAbeetle View Post
Alright.

Does it matter if its a 944 turbo?
Depends how far you are willing to go with mods. Ghia is the easiest conversion and more than good enough for street driving. They will start brake fade fairly easy in autocrossing though. 944 brakes are bigger, but require much more modification. 944T are just even bigger and require larger rims to fit them under.

So, as previous stated, you might want to describe your driving goals and we can help guide you to the best parts to look for.
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Old May 11th 2010, 17:23
SCCAbeetle SCCAbeetle is offline
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Autocross.
I think that the 944 brakes will work, I dont need monsters.

How much of a pain in the neck is it to install them?
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Old May 11th 2010, 21:11
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Here's is a good place to start reading on 944 conversions.

http://www.vdubengineering.com/techn...onversions.htm
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  #12  
Old May 11th 2010, 22:05
SCCAbeetle SCCAbeetle is offline
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Now where do you want to start..................?
Clive
Well...
I can go junk yard diving, and I am saving up for a Scat motor (the 2332cc, it puts down about 140hp or so, which in a regular beetle is enough)

I was thinking about that engine, along with shocks, brakes, any stabilization bars that might help, along with new wheels, roll cage and running some really sticky R compound tires.

Im sure that is not a complete list, I just would like to be able to autocross for fun occasionally and do decently.
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  #13  
Old May 12th 2010, 06:45
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Originally Posted by SCCAbeetle View Post
Well...
I can go junk yard diving, and I am saving up for a Scat motor (the 2332cc, it puts down about 140hp or so, which in a regular beetle is enough)

I was thinking about that engine, along with shocks, brakes, any stabilization bars that might help, along with new wheels, roll cage and running some really sticky R compound tires.

Im sure that is not a complete list, I just would like to be able to autocross for fun occasionally and do decently.
Don't get hooked up on the glamour of having a big engine in the first instance since you will get more productivity per $/£ on suspension and brakes. I have suggested a couple of very good reads on your other thread. principally, for AutoX an IRS rear is highly desireable but that will mean a new gearbox as well. If you do go IRS then 944 rear undercarriage (brakes and suspension) is a straightish bolt on with full adjustability, 23.5mm TBs and big disc brakes. Fit 4 pot calipers to the rear and a method of adjusting the front/rear brake bias. The 944 kit will increase the track to an advantage that big offset tyres may rectify under standard arches. Make the shell as stiff as possible because you will not get the best out of any comp car unless you have full control. Fit polyurethane bushes all round at least but where you can rose/heim joints will be useful. 944 brakes to the front are also useful. Fit the best dampers you can and pay particular attention to suspension settings - invest in some set up gear like a ADA caster/camber gauge and at least a Trackrite pad for toe.
Don't overtyre the car as your motor will spend too much power getting the tyres to turn and change direction. It might be worth sticking to road tyres initially so that you can experience the subtlties of the handling. In any case with a ceiling of <150bhp You won't need anything bigger than 180mm section width for best times.
Lastly and most importantly - LOSE WEIGHT! This will have the most effect on lap times. This is generally a free exercise as long as you don't go substituting titanium this and that. A friend of mine became obsessive about weight in his road rally car to the point where he took all the bolts out of the vehicle and cut them to the precise correct length. The bucket of bolt ends weighed in at around 10kgs! With a standard engine he used to embarrass those with high buck budgets,glitz and glamour parts, so it did work.

Clive
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Old May 12th 2010, 09:20
SCCAbeetle SCCAbeetle is offline
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Yeah- just my only worry is that my SCCA class is really not friendly to beetles.
I can't lose anymore weight then the stock weight.
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  #15  
Old May 13th 2010, 10:12
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A friend of mine became obsessive about weight in his road rally car to the point where he took all the bolts out of the vehicle and cut them to the precise correct length. The bucket of bolt ends weighed in at around 10kgs! Clive
Now that's commitment...the obsessive kind.
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