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  #271  
Old March 17th 2012, 03:45
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Hi

Love the light bar.

I had an 1963 austerity model bug that I used to do a bit of motor sport with.



It had 2 Cibie Super Oscars in the middle and 2 Oscars on the outside pointing out a little to look around corners.



When my son was learning to drive we had to do a few interstate trips, so knocked up a light bar and fitted 4 Cibie Super Oscars.

Steve
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  #272  
Old March 17th 2012, 20:00
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Is that your GH Sigma there Steve?

Makes me feel old that I'm the same age as one of them .
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  #273  
Old March 17th 2012, 20:06
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Hi

The Sigma was my wife's car, traded a 68 Type 3 wagon in on it, misses wanted AC.

Steve
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  #274  
Old March 19th 2012, 03:03
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Hmmm...this is why I update the thread every night I work on the car. It's Sunday, my last update was Friday before bed, so surely there is a tonne to update! I checked the camera, and I have only two new photographs. Geesh, I was down there for two days...what did I do!?!

I did finish up the rear apron mounts, which required stretching and releasing the rear body structure a few more times. I've got the bumper pretty even left to right, and the apron pops in and out easily (as long as you leave the bumper attached) so I figure that's probably going to give me enough access and clearance to make pulling motors easy enough. Then this morning I tore it all down again so that I could paint anywhere I cut or drilled through to bare metal.

I finally got around to cleaning up all the wiring above the transmission. With the changes to the oil cooler routing, and a change I made to the oil-cooler fan, some of the wires were too long. The rest of them were just popped in temporarily waiting for everything that could end up in the way to be installed. All were hortened where appropriate, and then mounted and cleaned up. Tomorrow I'll pickup the aluminum I need to make the cover for this access hole, install the rear windshield and then the "back seat" area is finished. That will allow me to move onto mounting the belts and seats.


The next major step is the engine. My dry-sump pump still isn't ready, but I have to run the car for The Spring Thaw April 27-29, so I figure I better get something together and give myself time to sort out the car! So, I reassembled my 1776 with the 26mm standard oil pump and some new tin. I'll run the engine with my Kadron carbs until after the Spring Thaw, and when I switch over to the dry-sump oiling I'll switch over to a set of IDF carbs.

You might be wondering about the red fan shroud, and questioning my taste in clown-car engine tin colors...but there is a good and valid reason for it! Once I switch over to the IDF's I'll switch over to the Salzburg style shroud I made and painted. Problem is I only have one set of generator backing tins. My theory was the engine would look worse with a black shroud and red backing plates then it does with an all red shroud combo. But, if I'm honest, I really do hate it! It's everything I can do not to pull out the paint and make it black :P



Hopefully I can find some lower mounting studs in the the length that I need. That's the hold up now for installing the engine and determining the location of the fuel pressure regulator and crankcase breather box. Of course, that does lead me to a new problem...I haven't really determined my crankcase breather setup, or even where I'm going to pull from. Something like this will make the line routing the cleanest with the Kadron carbs:


But these seem to be far easier to obtain on short notice, and while it will be a pain with the Kadrons, it will likely be much neater with the IDFs.


Hmmm...

-Dave
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  #275  
Old March 19th 2012, 05:11
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Hi Dave

Very neat work.

Can you buy lengths of high tensile metric threaded rod where you are for the lower studs?

Steve
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  #276  
Old March 19th 2012, 14:46
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That was the first thing I checked, right after regular studs. Metric threaded rod, no problem. High-Ten threaded rod, problem. I did find a Ford part number for a metric stud, M10 x 120. I've got two coming into the local dealer tomorrow, and we'll see if they're workable.

Otherwise, it's down to Vancouver and wait a week for the Porsche dealer to bring in the 911 mounting studs.

-Dave
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  #277  
Old March 19th 2012, 17:31
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Hi Dave

I think that I may have some kicking around if the other sources don't pan out.

I think auto Kombis used longer lower studs. The VW parts system have a thing called "lak & normal telle" (spelling maybe wrong). I lists every nut bolt used on any VW by part number, maybe an idea to talk to VW dealer parts section.

Steve
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  #278  
Old March 19th 2012, 21:18
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A type 4 stud should work.
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  #279  
Old March 19th 2012, 21:28
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That's what I thought. Drove over to my storage unit, dug the type 4 motor out, pulled the studs, and they are the same...or at least, mine are :P

-Dave
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  #280  
Old March 21st 2012, 03:11
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I've got the proper studs coming from Porsche, but its going to be a week or two before they arrive. So, in the meantime, I'm working on other items that are needed to install the engine. Everything at this stage is taking twice as long as it should, because I'm needing to plan ahead. Everything I drill a hole for is permanent...so it needs to not only work with the engine as its but more importantly, it needs to work with the engine I build with IDF's and the Salzburg-style shroud.



After a bunch of testing and measuring I finally determined the positioning for the crankcase breather, fuel pressure regulator and oil pressure sender.

Fuel pressure regulator (still need a fitting and a new gauge), and oil pressure sender. I won't be able to fit the Stewart-Warner sender in the same spot I had the Autometer sender as the body size is larger. I had done a remote sender on Connor's mustang, so I had all the -3AN fittings and lines on the shelf...so tucked this one out of the way with a left-over Coil bracket.


On the crankcase breather side, I decided to reuse the Moroso unit I had, instead of getting one of the rectangular box styles. For now I'll run both the valve covers and crankcase into this one unit, but when I hook up the dry sump system I think I'm going to mount a second one right beside it. I tend to forget about checking them for oil, and would rather not end up with a huge mess. The oil tank will be running a fairly high level of oil, so better to play it safe since I have the real-estate. I did realize that I own a 3/8NPT tap from modifying oil pumps, so made up a crankcase breather that I can use for now. I'm tempted to cut the threads deeper on the part, but the threads were cutting odd and I'm not really sure what type of aluminum it is...played it safe for now.


And lastly, the stud problem. With the proper Porsche studs coming, I figured I could mount the engine using bolts. The only reason I didn't, its the need to guide the engine in using just the input shaft on the transmission. So, some Audi engine bolts sacrificed their lives to become temporary engine studs. Cut threads aren't ideal, and leave a major stress riser right at the base of the last thread...so I'll swap these out as soon as I can. For the moment, however, they should work.


-Dave
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  #281  
Old March 22nd 2012, 05:38
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A few weeks ago I was doing my usual bi-weekly parts run to AVR Import Specialties, hanging out and chatting with my friend Rob (the 'R' in AVR). We were going over the list of items left on the car, and prepping the order schedule based on how quickly I thought I would get there. Rob's often watching out for sales from his suppliers, or trying to stay a step ahead of me on the parts list. Often I'll text him to say "can you add X" to my shelf, only to get "was already there" back. As we went through the list, Rob asked me a question I had been dreading for weeks. "What are you going to run for an exhaust?"

I have a bad habit of always leaving the exhaust system to the end, and usually as an afterthought. I cut my career teeth working for Vibrant Performance, an exhaust manufacturer based out of Toronto. It's just ingrained in me to not worry about the exhaust and make something at end of a project. Well, Vibrant was over seven years ago for me...and they don't make any Beetle exhausts! Rob and I started chatting about all the options, and price points, and then he asked me if I had seen the Vintage Speed systems. AVR just started carrying the line, and so far they've been stoked on everything they've brought in. There wasn't an exhaust in stock, but he piqued my interest for sure. Then Rob offered me the contact information for Mr. Lee, and suggested I show him the project. Well...less then 18 hours later I had a reply from Mr. Lee, and in three days I had two boxes arrive on my doorstep.



Now, I could tell you as an enthusiast that in person they are incredible. But as a person who used to evaluate systems for a living, these systems are phenominal. The workmanship is so far and beyond anything else I've seen for a VW, it's incredible. Hand TIG welded as well. Take a look at the detail photos:




As I'm planning on using heater boxes, the system ships with these flanges, that you can either weld to the heater boxes or use with factory clamps.


Now, you may have missed the fact that I said two boxes arrived to my doorstep. Vintage Speed and I discussed my current engine setup, and the engine setup I plan on running after my dry-sump pump is ready. The Sport Muffler was the obvious choice for the current setup, but would my new build benefit from using the Superflow muffler? Normally it's reserved for larger displacements then mine, but I'll be running high-revs for long sustained periods. "Well," he said, "why don't you try both and decide which works better for your setup." And so, sitting in my living room distracting me from work all day were two incredible exhaust systems!

But to get the motor in, I've got to take care of some more details. First up was the breather system. I spent a bit of time on the phone with Darren from KROC cylinder heads, and decided that I'm going to try venting the case, cylinder head 1/2 and not cylinder head 3/4. I had 3/4 vented previously, but I'm shortening my lines significantly and worry about filling the breather with oil. Instead of a breather I'm going to go with a drain from the head back down to the sump. Darren was great for sorting out what and how to do it now, so that I wouldn't need to change as much when the dry-sump system arrives. Crankcase breather, now tee'd for 1 valve cover and the case. I'll redo the fittings with my final engine, this is just what I had lying around. The lower hose is terminated just inside the fender area, all it does is allow me to drain the tank if needed.


Fuel regulator is in with more Russell fittings and hose. I'm going to leave the outlet hose as factory cloth until the new carbs are installed, at which time I'll move everything over to Russell fittings and lines.


I think I'm getting addicted to them actually ;-) Here's the -3AN line I'm using for the remote oil pressure sender.


Fast forward a whole bunch of time later, and we have an engine installed with an exhaust system. The engine took a few hours, and the exhaust system took less then 20min. It's such a rare experience with this build to have something that just bolted right up the first time! I am also pleased to report that our home-made clutch cable bits and the shortest factory clutch cable seem to have given me a working clutch. Well, the feel at the pedal is "right", so hopefully that equates to working when I get to drive it.




Its far from being ready to start though. I need to run oil lines, breather lines, make a 3/4 head drain, swap out the oil filter mount and THEN I'll be ready to start it. Closer, but still a long way to go!

I did finally solve a question tonight that I haven't been able to answer since I first discovered it. My e-brake cables were much too long for the car, as are the heater control cables. So much so that I can't hook up either without modifications. When I told Rob, he was surprised as they haven't had any issues on the shop restorations...which use the exact same parts! Sitting in the car, as well, there is something "odd" and "wrong" with the way it feels. I thought maybe I was using the passenger seat and it was setup on the mounts differently, but that wasn't it. Then today, it finally dawned on me. I think 1973 is the year they moved the e-brake handle and assorted bits further back in the car? I started with a '73 pan, but as I welded '71 style pans into it I always just tell Rob the car is 100% '71. Whoops.

I have to say, the two best modifications I've done to the car so far is the removable rear apron, and the "weber doors". The combination of both made the engine install so easy. You can reach everything!! I will never take a bug to paint without doing both of these...well, unless it's a factory resto. Then, and only then, will I drop the weber doors. The removable apron though, that's a given!

-Dave
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  #282  
Old March 22nd 2012, 08:27
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Exhaust looks amazing! Just had a browse at their competition exhaust too and wondering if they could incorporate a cat...
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  #283  
Old March 22nd 2012, 11:44
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Wow,

Your project is coming together great...

Enjoy your thread.. Helps keep me going even if at the current time can't work on mine..

Can't wait to see some video of your girl in action..
Alex
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  #284  
Old March 23rd 2012, 03:25
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Well, that didn't last long.

The motor is coming out!!



Back last year when I was researching dry sump systems and options for the Type 1 beetle, I evaluated as many different options of Dry Sump pump as possible. Most people using a dry sump setup in a bug are Drag Racing, so there was very little information out there regarding daily-driver and race style setups. When I could find information, all of it was clear...the Bugpack pump was reliable and long lasting. Issues were non-existent (as far as the internet was concerned), which these days is a pretty positive indicator! What sealed the deal, however, was the Huebbe brothers in St. Louis. Here are two guys who have been rallying a Beetle for years in the US. Mark and John's dry sump system uses the Bugpack pump, which was what sealed the deal for me. The fact that they just won their class at the WRC Mexico event using the pump is icing on the cake!

Rick at Bugpack was pretty excited about my car when I showed him the photos, he was clear it would be a while before the next run of Dry Sump pumps were ready, but he wanted to help me out and ship one up to Canada as soon as they were. With the Spring Thaw coming in less then 40 days, I figured I would dry sump the car after the event...not wanting to setup a new system so close to an event. So, as we all know, I installed the motor last night...the whole top half was ready to go. Today, however, John my friendly UPS driver showed up claiming "gee, more car parts! What a surprise."

You wouldn't actually expect me to sit around for a month knowing the dry sump pump was in house!?!

So, first it was off with the exhaust...then the crank pulley, then the tin and finally the oil pump.


The Bugpack pump has two stages, one scavenge and one pressure stage. The gears are huge on both, and the scavenge stage allows you to choose from two setups. You can either use the factory pickup (in which case you plug one port as I have) or use an external pickup such as Autocraft unit. In this case you would plug the internal pickup hole in the pump, and attach your external feed to the port I've plugged. Just in case, for archival purposes, you can't use both the internal pickup and the external port at the same time (for example scavenging crankcase via factory pickup and a valve cover via external port). If you do, as soon as one of them sucks air the other pickup won't pull anything.

So moving from left to right we have Inlet from the tank in furthest from the case, blocked port not used near the case. On the Left side there is pressure side out furthest from the case, scavenge back to the tank next to the case. The Russell fitting is my pressure return back into the case (after passing through a filter and the oil cooler).

I've sized up all the oil lines needed for the pump install, and will make those tomorrow. Technically that would be it, I could put the exhaust back on get ready for the next part of the project. But halfway through the day, after he saw the photo of the pump I sent him, Rob was calling me with some crazy ideas. Looks like the motor is coming right out of the car!

...anyone want to buy a Powdercoated Red shroud? Used for 24 hours, never run :P

-Dave
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  #285  
Old March 25th 2012, 11:02
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Holy crap, that exhaust is gorgeous!!!
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