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  #1  
Old August 3rd 2005, 13:51
HairyYeti HairyYeti is offline
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Have Just Opened An EBay Shop Selling Stainless Bits

My EBay shop selling stainless bits for Bugs and Buses

Here it is :

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/VolksBolts


just opened up to see how it goes..!

Discounts for volume.

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See all of my stainless steel kitting kits for split vans, beetles, ghias and trekkers at :

See all my stainless steel fitting kits @

http://home.clara.net/alan.baxter/index.htm
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  #2  
Old August 4th 2005, 14:18
HairyYeti HairyYeti is offline
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any suggestions for 'other' kits..?
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Old August 4th 2005, 16:18
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Chris Percival Chris Percival is offline
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Body to chassis kit is the obvious one, though I know there are a few other companies doing this, like http://www.vwoneonone.co.uk/
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Old August 5th 2005, 13:47
HairyYeti HairyYeti is offline
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I'm just about to commision a run of the long flat washers shaped like a 'U'.

These, as far as I can tell, are 'specials'.
(Correct me if I am wrong someone..!)

I have the nuts and bolts in already.

Shame the one-on-one web-site does not work on my browser though...it would have been interesting to see what they do / who they are etc.

To much fancy-arse web-design for you that is..!

ASB
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Old August 6th 2005, 06:00
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Chris Percival Chris Percival is offline
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He usually has his chassis kits on sale at most of the shows..
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  #6  
Old August 6th 2005, 07:01
budgetbus budgetbus is offline
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sorry to thread jack but chris i notice on your site you made your struts up....been looking to do this myself using golf legs but cant find were to get the thraded sleave assembly and retaining cups etc


cheers......as you were folks!
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  #7  
Old August 10th 2005, 14:12
HairyYeti HairyYeti is offline
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Just updated my browser and can open that web-site now : thanks for the link.

I'm on a modem and I must say his site takes time to download.
(Might look into broadband soon as I start my own business)

He doesnt do the full pan kit.
The long bolts for up front of the chassis are missing.
The washers are a close approximation to what VW used. Good effort though and the quality was OK.

I will be offering a fuller kit as soon as my washers are manufactured. (Not Long Now).

All my kits are tried and tested on my 1500 bug with 2.1 litre T4 engine.
All components in my kits are Stainless Steel.

I will offer Aluminum and Titanium in the future once I have the costing sorted out.

My background is professional aerospace engineer - military jets and commercial big-jets more recently.

Don't forget to buy my stuff folks..!
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Old August 10th 2005, 20:25
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Steve C Steve C is offline
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Hi

Do your fender/wing/mudguard bolts have the thick head like the original ones?

Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works.
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  #9  
Old August 11th 2005, 02:30
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Chris Percival Chris Percival is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HairyYeti
I'm on a modem and I must say his site takes time to download.
(Might look into broadband soon as I start my own business)
Yes, its a poor website actually. I hate sites like that! I would definitely recommend broadband though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HairyYeti
I will be offering a fuller kit as soon as my washers are manufactured. (Not Long Now).
Cool..

Let me know if you need a website, maybe we can do a deal with a bolt kit or two..
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  #10  
Old August 11th 2005, 13:47
HairyYeti HairyYeti is offline
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My wing bolts do not have the ldeep head like the original VW ones.

You'll be very hard pressed to find these as they are a bit special (and expensive).

In terms of grip, torque and shear the std. heads on the stainless bolts most people seem to use are fine.
I've migrated over to Aluminum cap-heads with stainless washers on my own bug more recently, again, no problems there.
I would'nt get hung-up on the issue.

I think there used to be a web-site called 'websitesthatsuck.com' (not checked this though - just typed it) which malaises web-sites with large graphic downloads and 'splash' covers that act as a gateway.

The old Demon-Tweeks site was rotten for that sort of stuff. They have hopefully changed since my last visit..!!
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  #11  
Old August 12th 2005, 17:02
HairyYeti HairyYeti is offline
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Chassis washers are going to be made and with me within the month...!

Price TBA shortly once I've crunched the numbers....
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  #12  
Old August 15th 2005, 04:06
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samcat samcat is offline
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I bought a load of bits from Mr. Yeti and am more than happy with the fit/quality.

I fitted the door lock/striker plate kits this weekend, allan key rather than posi drive is sooo much nicer/easier to work with. I also fitted one of the wing fitting kits, again it just worked. Only problem I had is that some of my captive nuts went missing years ago... Easily solved with a repair washer and an m8 nut (Stainless ofcourse).

Let us know when the chassis kits are ready, will take one of those off your hands.

Cheers,
SaM C
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1973 1303 (super beetle) in Jaguar British racing green,
Raby 2270, B spec gearbox, Lots of carbon fibre, Wolfrace Octane Black 17x7.5, Goodyear Eagle F1's, Kerscher suspension front and rear, kamei airdam in carbon, corbeau seats, momo millunium steering wheel.
CDT eurosport 6.5 front speakers, IDMAX 12D2 sub, rockford old school amps.
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Old August 15th 2005, 05:13
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Chris Percival Chris Percival is offline
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Would the chassis kit include 1303 specific bolts, or would it just be the bolts that go through the chassis washers?
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  #14  
Old August 15th 2005, 13:45
HairyYeti HairyYeti is offline
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I also include the 4X M10 bolts and washers that fit the front of the chassis.
Theres also a couple of shorter M8's that are required.
(see picture of the bolt set in the EBay shop)

If you let me know what the 1303 specific bits are then I can include them as well, if they are not in there all-ready.

Mines a 1970 1500, so a bit before the 1303. Can't imagine there being too much difference between the body-chassis fit though.

SAMCAT

Good point about the missing captive nuts... I lost 5 of these when I resto'd my body shell. I welded in new ones though rather then using the repair washer and nut like yourself.
You can also use rivet-in captive nuts. These are M8 nuts with wings (so to speak). Drill the holes for 2 X rivets either side of the where the nut goes (assuming the metal is good), offer-up and pop-rivet into place. Easy-peasy.

One final finishing touch - where the M8 bolt protudes inside the bonnet area - cap it with a dome nut - stainless of course. (I also have these) Looks nicer then a raw bolt-end.!
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Old August 15th 2005, 14:44
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Chris Percival Chris Percival is offline
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There might be 4 more extra at the front. There is 2 long ones that come up from underneath at the front of the framehead, and there are 2 that go down into the framehead from inside the spare wheel well.. pm me if you need more info..

Chris
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