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  #1  
Old April 27th 2006, 06:10
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Questions about VW1302RSis ride

Click here for more information on this ride.
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Scott

1971 2.5L Subaru powered 1302s

http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com/
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  #2  
Old April 27th 2006, 06:27
What-r-u-doing What-r-u-doing is offline
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Awesome

Nice job, Dude thanks for the e-mail looking at that is going to make the night shift pass faster, a bit like your car then...faster lol.

Scott can't wait to get back home to NZ and Drive it, well better go and make sure the monkies are torquing up those wing bolts now..wouldn't want those to fall off...lol-

Phil

Last edited by What-r-u-doing; April 27th 2006 at 06:31. Reason: I'm tired its 2am
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Old April 27th 2006, 08:14
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ricola ricola is offline
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Nice to have another scooby powered VW on here

Do you have some more/better pics of the engine/cooling set-up?

Rich
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  #4  
Old April 27th 2006, 15:10
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Hi Ricola

There are some pic's at http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com/
I have only just got the car on the road, most of the pic's I have so far are poor quality and of the build.

When it stops raining i'll get some more pic's up of the car.

Phil -what are you doing dude, you should be watching those monkies instaid of surfing for porn again you'll go blind, remind me not to fly with you guys.

Scott
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  #5  
Old April 27th 2006, 16:52
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LOAF LOAF is offline
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Nice ride,

I have a few questions pertaining to your set up..

Can you tell me more about your coil over conversion for the rear.

As far as the Scooby engine did you rotate the intake manifold? How hard was to wire in the ECU. The LINK system is piggyback or standalone? Assume you spliced the harness to work with the VW?

Lastly I will be snagging a 2.5 RS short block engine and hopefully mating it to a 2.2 heads and intake maybe some cams (depending on $$). How do you like the power from the 2.5?

Thanks
Loaf
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  #6  
Old April 28th 2006, 01:58
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Hi Loaf

Thanks for the comments,

“Can you tell me more about your coil over conversion for the rear”
The rear dampers are adjustable Spax coilover units that I had to modify. The problem is that the IRS arm gets in the way of the spring and the threaded part of the damper is at the lower end of the body, so I had two problems 1- I needed to move the spring platform up the damper body and 2- I needed very short springs.
1- I had a tube machined up with the same thread on it fitted it on the upper part of the damper body, with a slight interference fit and a bit of locktight. The load is taken by the original threaded portion as the new part is butted up to it. Make sense?
2- I worked out what spring rated I needed, the free length, fitted length, from there I worked out what the spring dimensions would be and check to see if coil bind would occur before the suspension bottomed out and as I was happy with results I had them made.

“As far as the Scooby engine did you rotate the intake manifold?”
Yes I turned the inlet manifold around 180 degrees so I didn’t have to cut a hole in the fire wall, hardest part of the job was making the alternator mounts.

”How hard was to wire in the ECU. The LINK system is piggyback or standalone?”
The Link ECU is a standalone system (www.link-electro.co.nz) it’s not a bad unit and it’s made here in New Zealand so back up is good. I didn’t have any issues wiring up the ECU but if you don’t have the experience or the skills pay someone to do it, a good auto electrician will make it look like it was meant to be there not an addition.

“Assume you spliced the harness to work with the VW?”
Yes and No, I made a complete new ECU/Engine loom, Battery and alternator loom and an Auxiliary loom.
1- The ECU/Engine loom only connects to the stock loom via the original feed from the ignition switch to the coil and this operates a relay that provides the 12V power feed to the ECU and engine loom and it also connects to the oil pressure idiot light wire.
2- The Battery and alternator loom connect to the stock loom via the generator idiot light wire and the main 12V feed that supplies power up to the fuse box.
3- The Auxiliary loom goes to the front of the car for the fuel pump, both radiator fans, water temperature gauge, tachometer, gauge earths and some spare wires, this only connects to the stock loom for a power feed for the fuel pump and fans.
4- There are also two new fuse relay boards one at the front and one in the back.
So I guess if you removed all the stock loom I would just need a power feed to the front of the car and the ECU and a couple of idiot lights to drive the car

“Lastly I will be snagging a 2.5 RS short block engine and hopefully mating it to a 2.2 heads and intake maybe some cams (depending on $$). How do you like the power from the 2.5?”
I’m not sure what Subaru engines you have available were you are, we have a 2.5L NA in the Legacy, Outback and Forester and a 2.5L Turbo in the WRX Impreza, so I don’t know what a 2.5 RS engine is? I guess the heads you’re taking about are the DOHC units and I’m assuming that you aren’t going to turbo it, I don’t know how much more power you would get from the DOHC heads?

At the moment I’m happy with the power I have from a stock 2.5L SOHC, but that I’m sure I’ll want more soon.

After reading your comment “How do you like the power from the 2.5?” You got me wondering about performance bla bla and that i'm at work and bored, so I did some checking on Subaru’s NZ website and Porsche’s UK site, and knowing what power and weight a stock 1302 has I came up with the following ********.

Stock 1302s
830 Kgs 44Kw 53Kw per 1000Kg or 18.8Kg/Kw
2.5T WRX Impreza
1430Kgs 169Kw 118Kw per 1000Kg or 8.4Kg/Kw
2.5T STI WRX Impreza
1495Kgs 206Kw 137Kw per 1000Kg or 7.2Kg/Kw
911 Carrera 3.6L
1470Kgs 239Kw 162Kw per 1000Kg or 6.1Kg/Kw
911 Turbo
1660Kgs 353Kw 212Kw per 1000Kg or 4.7Kg/Kw
And my car assuming that it weighs 70Kg more than a stock 1302 and has the same power as a standard 2.5L Outback then…………
900Kg 121Kw 118Kw per 1000Kg or 7.4Kg/Kw

Your right Loaf not enough power -down to the breakers its time to get a 2.5L STI WRX motor….. bugger I’m dribbling again that would be
910Kg 206Kw 226Kw per 1000Kg or 6.4Kg/Kw
Hmmmmmm more than the 911 Turbo- WOW I’m feeling light headed all the blood has rushed away from my head.

Well that was a load of ******** but it did achieve one thing…… its knock off time.

What a busy day………….
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  #7  
Old April 29th 2006, 00:42
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Location: Wellington New Zealand
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Some more pictures added of build showing wiring, rad etc @ http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com

Feel free to check them out.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 29 April 06 -8.JPG (49.2 KB, 135 views)
File Type: jpg First time away from home.JPG (76.1 KB, 112 views)
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  #8  
Old May 6th 2006, 18:00
What-r-u-doing What-r-u-doing is offline
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HAve you used it yet,

Scott

Have you used that pile of bolts yet or do you just polish it like you uncle would?

When are you taking it to the track?, is the Intermargue series still going?

Now that you have finnished the Das-brokenwagen will you be starting the U2?

Its knock off time so i had better go and wake the monkies up, BTY Dude we don't let riff-raff fly with us.

Phil
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  #9  
Old May 11th 2006, 06:24
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Thermostat info for james

Hi all this is for James from Conversion Perversions as i can't post pictures there, and it may interest some of you


The thermostat housing is part of the water pump and there are a few different types, on the 2.5L engine I have it came with a black plastic thermostat/hose neck that aimed the hose across the engine towards the head (oil filler side),
On this engine I used a 2L turbo thermostat/hose neck and that aimed it towards the flywheel, i just had to trim the dipstick tube support bracket (PIC A)
I used a flexible hose (i hate it) and clipped it to one of the sump bolts with a "P" clip and a cable tie and then did the same at the back of the head with a cable tie to keep the hose away from the exhaust (PIC B) and connected to the main coolant pipe (PIC C).
The hose part number is 25478 and it’s a Gates V/Flex hose 38x432mm the water pump is a GWSU-12A Grant water pump both from Repco, my suggestion is if you can’t find a thermostat/hose neck, then go to Repco and compare the correct water pump for your engine and the one I listed and if the difference is only in the location of the thermostat/hose neck mounting holes then get that pump and use your thermostat/hose neck as I’m sure you wouldn’t go to all the trouble of fitting this engine with out replacing things like water pumps, thermostats and cambelts etc, so its not like you aren’t going to buy one any way.
A few tricks on the water hose and thermostats if your going to try and keep a rubber hose in a position with a cable tie by pulling it, the hose may collapse when hot fit a hose clip over the hose and just nip it up and attach the cable tie to the hose clip this will keep the hose in shape (PIC B),
To help bleed up the cooling system modify your thermostat. You may have noticed a small hole in the thermostat (1.5-2mm) with a valve in it (looks like a bar bell) this hole is to allow some water circulation (and trapped air) and the valve is to stop reverse flow, what I do is remove the valve and drill out the hole to say 5mm this helps when bleeding the system and some believe it helps in reducing terminal shock when the thermostat opens. Also use only genuine thermostats no arguments only use genuine thermostats end of story. I have use non-genuine thermostats over the years with good results but in the last 6 years I have noticed that when fitting non-genuine thermostats to some vehicles that I have started to have problems with bleeding the system or open correctly and have massive temp changes on the gauge when the thermostat opens, switch to genuine problem goes away, I have tested genuine and non-genuine thermostats side buy side and they both open and close at the same temps, the only difference with these thermostats is the size and position of the wax and spring area.
When warm my car runs at 80-85c on the gauge all the time, in traffic, idling, motorway, once it gets to that temp it just stays there, ok I’m lying once it go to about 92c but it had been on the Dyno for over 2 hours.


Anyhow enough of my dribble, e-mail me James if I can help with anything.

Scott
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Pic A.JPG (58.8 KB, 115 views)
File Type: jpg Pic B.JPG (54.5 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg Pic C.JPG (76.0 KB, 117 views)
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  #10  
Old May 11th 2006, 06:31
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Phil,
When are they going to start drug testing at your work, they would need to before i fly with you guys.



Quote:
Originally Posted by What-r-u-doing
Scott

Have you used that pile of bolts yet or do you just polish it like you uncle would?

When are you taking it to the track?, is the Intermargue series still going?

Now that you have finnished the Das-brokenwagen will you be starting the U2?

Its knock off time so i had better go and wake the monkies up, BTY Dude we don't let riff-raff fly with us.

Phil

Funny you should say that the 19 of May i'm going to the track and yes the intermarque is still going, you should buy the U2 off me or arn,t you man enought??

Scott
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  #11  
Old May 11th 2006, 15:26
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Mikey Mikey is offline
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Scott,

I noticed you're running coilovers in the rear. Have you thought about a Kafer cup brace? 5 bar would be best but at least a 3 would help stiffen the rear suspension. The stock towers were not desinged to carry the weight of the car. Since now the weight of the car is now on the shock tower you'll need something to help make the shock tower stronger. And by tieing the stock towers into the frame horns you'll tie the whole rear suspension together. It'll also help with 'wheel hop'.

Here are a few pictures of my 5 bar brace installed. I purchased this brace from Lanner (Flat) at VDubEngineering.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cup Brace (Small).jpg (43.4 KB, 132 views)
File Type: jpg Cup Brace 001 (Small).jpg (47.0 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg Cup Brace 002 (Small).jpg (38.9 KB, 92 views)
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Old May 11th 2006, 15:37
zeroaxe zeroaxe is offline
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Scott,

Love the number plate! Nice car you got there mate!

Mikey,

Ho-hum....now I wonder if I should change my 3 bar Kafer brace-build to 5 bar?
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Old May 11th 2006, 17:07
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Mikey Mikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeroaxe
Mikey,

Ho-hum....now I wonder if I should change my 3 bar Kafer brace-build to 5 bar?
Look at it this way, if you're going coil-overs. A 3 bar brace is better than nothing, but from what I've heard the best way to go with coil-overs is a 5 bar brace. I really don't need a 5 bar brace with the set up I'm using now, but then again some might say I don't need to go Subaru.

If you're going with the stock torsion suspension and just want to eleminate 'wheel hop' and stiffen the rear suspension, go with the 3 bar.
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Old May 11th 2006, 18:26
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Hi all,

Zeroaxe,
Thanks for the comments about the car and the plate was a bonus, it’s the original plate that came with the car.

Mikey,
My rear coil springs are helpers only they and they have a very light spring rate, just to allow me to corner weight the car and adjust the handling.
The only time wheel hop occurs is when I do a burn out it starts to hop after I have hooked second gear and I’m not the in to doing burn outs, however a rear bracing system is on the drawing board, I can’t use a Kafer style bar due to other components in the way. I have a system in mind and when its done I’ll post some pictures and drawings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
Look at it this way, if you're going coil-overs. A 3 bar brace is better than nothing, but from what I've heard the best way to go with coil-overs is a 5 bar brace. I really don't need a 5 bar brace with the set up I'm using now, but then again some might say I don't need to go Subaru.
If you're going with the stock torsion suspension and just want to eleminate 'wheel hop' and stiffen the rear suspension, go with the 3 bar.
I have a question for you based on your above comment, if you fit a 3 bar “kafer cup type” set up to a std IRS rear end how does it work?
- Is the upper shock mount supporting the frame horns?
- Are the frame horns supporting the upper shock mounts?


Food for thought

Scott
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Old May 11th 2006, 21:17
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Mikey Mikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VW1302RSi
Mikey,
I have a question for you based on your above comment, if you fit a 3 bar “kafer cup type” set up to a std IRS rear end how does it work?
- Is the upper shock mount supporting the frame horns?
- Are the frame horns supporting the upper shock mounts?


Food for thought

Scott
Hmm. that took me a second, but I believe I have an answer.

Both. The brace is there to help stiffin the rear suspension as a whole. The frame horns are not supported, and the shock towers are not strong enough to do what we're asking of them with coilovers. But, if you tie them together, and tie it back up to the torsion housing, it gives everthing the support it needs.

Similar to a roll cage. If it was separated right in the middle of the car, the front and back are strong by them selves, but since you tie them both together. They make the whole car stronger. One part isn't relying on the other for streingth, they more or less, compliment each other.

Does that make sence?
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Last edited by Mikey; May 11th 2006 at 21:22.
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