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  #106  
Old April 6th 2013, 13:24
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Harness mounting is fairly specific, best to read the instructions that are for the actual belt you're installing. But for general information, the Schroth book is pretty good. Regardless, seats require a proper anti-submarine slot. It's very dangerous to use a seat that doesn't have a slot. https://www.tillett.co.uk/shop/docum...ation-2012.pdf

5pt belts are typically done with the anti-submarine strap following the chest-torso line and then mounted between that line dropped down to the floor, or 20deg forward.


6pt belts are either run through anti-submarine straps, through the side slots and you sit on the anti-submarine belts, or under a thin panel in the seat. The mounting point is quite specific to the belt you're using.

-Dave
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  #107  
Old April 6th 2013, 13:35
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Bogara_ZO Bogara_ZO is offline
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Thanks for the info Dave!
One more, if there is no cage in the bug where would you mount the shoulder belts? The original fixing point behind the rear seat is too low?
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  #108  
Old April 6th 2013, 21:41
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If there is no cage in the bug, you shouldn't _ever_ run shoulder belts in a harness. Should the vehicle roll, a 4-5-6pt harness (done up properly), does not allow you to move the upper body and you are risking permanent spinal damage or death should the roof collapse. If you're not running a roll bar, I would suggest using just the lap and anti-submarine belts.

FWIW, a four point roll bar (like I have in my beetle), may not be enough for full harnesses either. I was denied entry into a particular event due to the risk of front portion of the roof crushing in an killing me in a roll-over. Technically my car met the rules, but the organizer reserves the right to exclude any vehicles they think are unfit, and mine was selected. Definitely made me think about putting in the front half of a cage as well...may still do so.

-Dave
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  #109  
Old April 7th 2013, 02:16
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A bit of excitement! Now I am ready for the soap box derby!! Just shove me down a hill!


Although no cooling vanes in the rotors, I will switch the left and right rotors so the slotting is going the other way in order to be consistent with the back.


Front clip isn't perfect but the front bumper and Kamei should hide it. The front was clearly in an accident at some point, and the fender bolt holes may need to be drilled out and welded back in. Maybe in the future I will replace the whole front clip.






Watson StreetWorks wiring harness should arrive at the end of the week. My 944 CV's and axles are off for a little R&R, DTM cooling shroud will be coming sometime.

Anyone have an idea what these sensors are?

Oil Pressure????



Oil Temp????
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  #110  
Old April 7th 2013, 20:47
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You are correct with the sensors.
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  #111  
Old April 9th 2013, 21:54
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Am I doing something wrong? I got these struts to replace the springs on my hood from CIP1. They do not move a bit! I can't extend or compress them at all. Do they just take really high force to move them? Problem is, they are compressed too much so that I won't be able to attach them unless the hood is closed and how am I supposed to do that??

The other piece is already E-clipped into the car.
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  #112  
Old April 9th 2013, 22:46
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usually thoes gas struts are fully extended and they take quite the force to compress. so i dont know why they are compressed. maybe call them and see what might be the matter or maybe something your missing on how to install them.
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  #113  
Old April 9th 2013, 22:55
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I put all my weight on them to compress em, and no luck... They also seem too short to be extended.
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  #114  
Old April 9th 2013, 23:20
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I've had those that needed to unseat once to let them move, they don't look compressed to me, I think they just need to move once. Otherwise, that is just way too stiff, your hood will start to fall apart. Put the threaded end on some wood then get on top of that thing!

Jason
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  #115  
Old April 9th 2013, 23:32
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Just tried again... Maybe I'm not fat enough?
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  #116  
Old April 10th 2013, 03:40
Birdman69 Birdman69 is offline
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I've got gas struts on my hood, picked them up from a local supplier, not CIP
I can move them in and out my hand.
Sounds liked they are stuffed. Usual CIP quality?
Don't put them on mate or you will bend or crack your hood for sure.
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  #117  
Old April 10th 2013, 11:44
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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I've recently replace the gas struts on my mum's polo boot (trunk) They were completely uncompressible by hand, however once fitted they worked perfectly.

As mentioned, sume have a 1/4 turn lock, I've seen that before too
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  #118  
Old April 12th 2013, 01:21
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I've come quite a way in the past few months!





Seems like the money is just pouring out of my wallet on this thing recently...
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  #119  
Old April 12th 2013, 15:01
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haha, yes the reassembly stage tends to do that!

Just wait until the finishing stages...the suction from your wallet becomes black-hole intensity :-)

Great progress though!

-Dave
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'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #120  
Old April 13th 2013, 01:48
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Watson Wiring Harness has arrived... Installation pics coming soon. I may need to step away from the car this weekend, feeling a bit stressed out over it.

Gone Fishing, be back soon! But seriously I'm going fishing.
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