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  #106  
Old March 28th 2011, 02:08
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NACA Time

I finally started working on the duct system for the intercooler. I have built bucks to do a vacuum formed scoop, but I can't seem to find a vacuum forming machine to do it, plus I'd still have to work out how to get the air to the IC. This way I just need to hook up flexible hoses to a plenum around the IC. It's easier, will look ok, and mostly it just makes having the quarter windows pop out much easier. It was a PITA, but seems like it will work. Next some testing to confirm I'm actually getting the flow I need.













Jason
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  #107  
Old March 28th 2011, 05:50
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Like it!

Will you always drive with the pop-outs open then? or will you only open them when there is extra air intake need?
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  #108  
Old March 28th 2011, 06:36
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Hi

You've been doing great work on this car. Did you ever consider going air to water inter cooling?

Steve
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  #109  
Old March 28th 2011, 16:05
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NO_H2O NO_H2O is offline
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Nice NACA inlets. We have done a couple similar setups (dual inlet only), but not kept the pop-outs. I like the 3 singles with the pop-outs.
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  #110  
Old March 28th 2011, 22:55
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Ducts

Hi I love the ideal also, I have two (2)inch inlet one one each side. Having that galss cut and tempered was costly.

I used some 2000 grid sandpaper for better adhesion, I can't wait to see how some of these part work/hold-up
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  #111  
Old March 29th 2011, 15:44
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Wally, I may have to have the pop-outs open for optimal cooling. I just put it together and with the pop-outs in they airflow I felt with my hand wasn't that great, I forgot to check with them open, but it makes sense to me that more air would be forced in with them open. The window itself will just aid in interior cooling, it doesn't add any air to the plenum.

Steve, I actually prefer the idea of A/W intercooling, the trouble is that it weighs A LOT more, is way more complicated and thus much higher chance of something failing. Weight is the main thing, all the cooling, hoses, and I'd have to have the radiator up front so long fluid filled hoses. If I do anything to augment the A/A, it will be methanol injection both through the engine and on the front of the IC. I'm only looking to have about 300whp, so hopefully that won't be to difficult to safely achieve with this setup.

Jason
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  #112  
Old July 10th 2011, 00:27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volkdent View Post
Thanks man, I have access so I think I'm going to put some nyloc SS nuts on the inside, then put some epoxy over them to lock them onto the door skin and not have to deal with getting back to hold them later. Clean the surface up and grease the bolt should allow for the bolt to come out of the epoxy but the nut to stayed glued to the inside of the door. Thanks for the insight and suggestions guys, it will save me trouble down the road.
Jason
Hi Jason!

I remembered your problem with the mirrors and would like to show you a solution to keep them still.

Standard...


Modified...


This is the way to keep tight without dismantling the door to maintenance...
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  #113  
Old July 10th 2011, 00:42
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Originally Posted by Wally View Post
Like it!

Will you always drive with the pop-outs open then? or will you only open them when there is extra air intake need?
Wally,
I remember the white Golf W12 quarter window. Its working to intake air...
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  #114  
Old July 28th 2011, 21:47
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Thanks for the suggestion Luis, so far so good, but it may loosen with time.

Just a little "update"....

So I tell my wife, "sweetie, I'm heading out to the garage to install the boost guage, I'll be done in probably 30 mins."

FAMOUS LAST WORDS

As I'm placing the guage in the dash, unbeknownst to me, one of the + wires that lights the speedo guage breaks off and falls to lay against the speedo housing.

After installing the new guage which is VDO India I turn on the ingnition to see how it lights, as it is a different design than my German VDOs, especially on the light. I notice for whatever reason the high beam blue light is lit up, but I'm pretty sure I didn't have them on. I try the switch, and sure enough, when the high beams are on, the light is out, when they are off, it is on. Curious.

Just about this time my spider senses start tingling, and I feel like something is just not right. Just about then I see smoke billowing out of the front left fender...

WELL, turns out the + wire reversed the polarity on the speedo, thus the odd light action, and decided to use the speedo cable as ground. This induced a resistance load on the speedo cable, which baked the plastic coating off. This in turn sagged and touched then melted the left brake hose, which, once melted through the rubber sheath, turned the stainless steel braid into more of the circuit, which then caught the brake fluid on fire as it dripped from the line

SO, boys and girls, NEVER trust what you do when you are 17, I hadn't fused the + lead from the ignition to the guages all those many years ago, and fortunately, with only a new speedo cable, brake line, and terrribly bruised ego to point at, I got away rather unscathed.

I've taken the opportunity to redu the ingnition switch, light switch, and change out to a smaller set of MCs, so there is a silver lining, as well I've added PLENTY of new fuses to keep things from getting krispy in the future.

Jason
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  #115  
Old July 29th 2011, 07:44
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Damn. That sucked. Glad it wasn't any worse.
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  #116  
Old July 29th 2011, 07:55
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That's terrible..

Luckily it didn't get any worse.
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  #117  
Old August 1st 2011, 15:26
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Damn, you got off easy since that could have gone a lot worse. Electric work is the worst and I hate doing it, but it pays to be methodical and thorough. Re-wiring my car is on my to-do list and it's not something I'm looking forward too.
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  #118  
Old September 12th 2011, 09:08
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I can't believe someone besides me is telling a story like that.
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  #119  
Old September 14th 2011, 15:41
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volkdent volkdent is offline
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Ha ha, well it's gunna happen if you do it long enough I guess! I've been working on wiring, got one of these:

Innovative Motorsports A/F gauge

But I need a place to put everything, so I'm fabbing up the center console. It's going to be different... So far is involves a road bike handlebar... So I have to get the console finished before I can start the wiring.

The latest "pair" of MCs is in now, but the exhaust is out so I havn't been able to but it on the road to see if I've discovered the right combo of MC sizes to run in balance.

Having another bung welded onto my exhaust for the wideband O2 sensor, so it may see the dyno in the next couple of weeks for more tuning. I want it to run well stock then finish up the interior, then go back for the big turbo.

Pics to come.

Jason
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  #120  
Old October 11th 2011, 23:24
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volkdent volkdent is offline
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Here's a couple of vids from tuning:

Flame thrower?

Dyno Run

I like this pic shot next to blue neon:



The new shop space:



On the dyno, he's one building over from where the new shop is, how convenient!



Jason
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If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights....
1960 VW Bug UBRDUB
Walkaround
1st Drag Run

Dyno Run
Oval Ragster-'57 Rag/'04 Boxster S

Last edited by volkdent; October 12th 2011 at 01:31.
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