My other 1303 GL

[Wally]

Originally Posted by Steve C

Looks like I have to use a 1/4 inch steel flywheel scatter shield. I tried searching and of course your build thread came up. I started looking through the 104 pages on your build and gave up.

These I still had on my phone:




Basically my buddy bend some 6mm thick and 10cm wide plate round the G50, which I welded to my old tranny cradle. Its heavy, but as you said, mandatory to run at most drag race tracks under 11.9 sec iirc.
For circuit use I can unbold the top section, which then saves some weight.

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally, really useful photos and information.

I'm using a Subarugears mount and factory Subaru engine mounts. I could weld the lower part to to the Subargears mount

[H2OSB]

Steve--

Bit off topic, but what block is that? Any issues with the open deck and being boosted?

JohnL

[Steve C]

Its a spare block that I borrowed from a local Subaru shop to mock up my chassis, not sure what type. My my EJ207 block is semi closed now

[H2OSB]

That's what I suspected(mock up only). Though I believe the WRXs here in the states originally came with boosted, open deck EJ22s, like your mock up block. My LegacyGT had an EJ255 which, like the EJ257s in the U.S. spec STIs are semi-closed deck. I don't know much about the JDM spec engines you guys get in Oz. I was only asking because I ASSumed with the power you make in your 1303 you would start with a semi-closed deck, though I don't even know if it's necessary.

Have you ever seen one of the closed deck blocks from the original 2.0L(or was it 2.2L) Subaru turbo engines? Supposedly They can take some serious boost.

[Steve C]

Hi

Started on the scatter shield today, rain and lack of welding gas stopped progress. Thanks to Wally for sending me some photos of his shield, it really helped. I had a local engineering shop roll me up a circle.

My motor is a EJ207, the very reputable engine builder was worried about cooling in my setup so he made the closed deck with dowels not a fully closed deck. His instruction were with tuning to limit boost to 30 psi and AWD rwkW to 400.00, I made 305 rwkW but I've gone to a bigger rear housing on my GTX3076 and I've altered my air cleaner which was choking the motor. If I'm not happy with the results of the next tune I will change turbo.

I have a Toyota JZX110 as my daily and the GTX would work well on that. Its a cool daily, photo added. Factory manual 2.5 litre 1J and I've added 3 inch turbo back exhaust and Greddy front mount

[Steve C]

Hi

Been doing some test drives, wrapped in the new clutch, so progressive unlike the organic Kennedy that I was running, off to the tuner soon for more kWs

[Wally]

Hate to admit, but that Toyota IS a cool car indeed. Dont think we had those over here.

As for clutches, both pressure plate (#lbs) and disk material and construction add to the harshness in my experience. Then again, I’am probably used to “race” clutches by now as my very experienced inspector stalled my car 5 times parking it on the lift 😆

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally, I love my Jap car, great cruiser and very comfortable. We never had them in Australia either, they are whats called a grey import from Japan, nice to have air conditioning in summer

My motor was so easy to stall with the old clutch, and it stunk with the slightest slip when parking etc

My scatter shield

[Steve C]

Hi

Just got the car back from the tuner, I was hoping for more but it looks like I may have reached the limit of the current setup. Its still scary fast.

Now I waiting for the drag strip to open so that I can have the approval on my cage ticked off.

Steve

[Wally]

Hi Steve,
Nice runs!
This is 319 KW at 30psi boost at the rear wheels, right?
That would be 480-ish crank hp then?
Not bad, but I agree, but I would have expected a little more as well at that boost level.
What limit do you or dyno guy think is holding it back?

[Steve C]

Hi Wally

I've only driven it low boost so far, I've now gone back to street tyres, Nitto Invos 225/40 x 18 and 265/35 x 18 and its rolling on in 1st and 2nd, it didn't do this on the Toyo R888rs.

The tuner was non committal on what was robbing power, I will talk to the engine builder soon to see what he suggests. I'm going to see if there is pressure drop across the intercooler.

I think I have enough power for the time being.

Steve

[DORIGTT]

Steve,

I've got a few questions for you...

Would you run the same sized Toyos?

How are your tire temps / optimal grip with the 225 / 265 combination?

Those sizes strictly for looks/fit the wheels you picked or traction for that power?

Thanks my friend.

[Steve C]

I went that size in Toyos to get heat into them, my son with a 1904cc Type 1 motor had trouble getting them up to temp on his car and he is a much better driver than me, all the drifting practice I guess.

I've now fitted the 225 Toyos and some new 235 Toyos to some Hollow Spoke wheels, I haven't driven on the rears yet.

I would suggest for track going to as small a tyre as you can to get heat into them, if you find them wearing too quickly you could go up a size, my son works for Toyo / Nitto so I get family prices

I've run 215/40s on the front and 255/35 on the rear that looked right, Toyo ? Nitto only make a 225/40 but I found that the front tyre always looked taller that the rear which to me looks wrong, that's why I went 265/35 this time, so I suppose it is looks

I went back to street tyres as I found the R888rs a little bumpy on the street, BTW all sizes are 18s

[Steve C]

With all the Covid closures the local drag strip has decided to resurface the strip so I still haven't had the final tech inspection on my cage

I've entered a roll racing event at the Sydney Motorsport Park this coming Friday but the weather predictions aren't too good for that night.

I've fitted up my Mickey Thompson ET Streets for the event on some 18x9 Simmons OM wheels, they a 2454/40x18. Took it it for a kebab run the other night, they are hooking up nicely even though they have been sitting next to my garage unused for about 5 years