#46
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KISS-"keep it simple stupid"
when doing a conversion like this, which is pretty involved, i would recommend getting the stock engine to work first. When u finally get over over 200 hp in ur bug, you can always upgrade later. Im sure youll be happy with the stock power, its not like a vw motor, it pulls hard though every gear. After doing the conversion, i doubt ill ever do a turbo upgrade, 200 hp is already plenty for a street car. 400hp almost seems ridiculous, but itll be fun if you can control it on the street. -Ryan
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#47
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As to the HP out put of the motors: the USDM 2.0 WRX puts out 227 HP.
When you are talking about the 2.5 turbo, I assume you are talking about an USDM STi motor ? That's 300 HP. If you are talking about the '06 2.5L WRX motor, that one puts out 230 HP. (But I'd be surprised if you already got your hands on one of those ) You want 400HP ? Have you ever driven a high powered car (or bug). I'm not saying I have, but before you aim for goals like that, I'd say give it a try first. You might find that a 227HP motor is plenty. Like Ryan (73Notch) says, keep it simple, you can always upgrade later. -sorry for the long post Rob. |
#48
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I have driven some pretty fast , high HP cars before (some of the new chevys at the dealership where I work are putting out over 300 HP easily) .Yah , I may be dreaming with 400HP , but I figure , what the hell , lets dream a little . I always wanted a car that would blow away anything on the streets . I kinda figured I would have to scale back once I figured out all the logistics , but you gotta start somewhere .
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#49
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im sure all the chevys there weigh double or more than your bug too.
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#50
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True enough! But they are still a blast to drive (especially the 404HP Sierra pickup I had in the shop the other day!)
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#51
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400hp in a bug is not in the same ballpark as 400hp in a Chevvy. Without boost (around 215hp) my bug is very quick and with the turbo going full blast its plain scary and almost undriveable on the streets.
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#52
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Quote:
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#53
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Hey Axl,
If you are already going to build a tube frame, why not look into using an entire Subaru drivetrain? AWD Bug would be sweet even if it was a front mount job. |
#54
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I thought about it , but I would want to keep the engine in the back , and I don't know about making it all work . I think I will keeo it as I originally planned .Axl .
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#55
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Looking for some ideas...
I have a few ideas I'd like to toss around for getting my coolant from the front to the back. Ahem...
1. Run round tubing inside the main tunnel. Send and return. Pro- Neat/cleaner look, practical since everything else is in the tunnel Con- Tight space, and I havn't figure out a good way around the rear torsion. 2. Run one pipe inside the tunnel and one on the passenger side. (right next the tunnel) Pro- Not as clean, but clean. Con- A big hump on the passenger side of the tunnel, and the rear torsion. 3. Square OR round tubing under the car. Pro- More room than the tunnel. Con- Might limit ground clearance, and I'm a little uneasy about the pipes under the car. 4. Heater channels. Pro- Clean! I can check for rust while I've got them open. Con- A lot more work. I'm thinking either 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 diameter. The radiator inlet and outlet are 1-3/4. The engine I don't have yet. I can always get an adaptor to a smaller diameter for the rad or weld a smaller diameter pipe on it. (I love TIG ) As for material, Aluminum, Stainless, and Carbon Steel are all options. But the cost might be a limiting factor. I have the capibility of welding all. I kinda want to say away from copper. Question... Would a smaller diameter pipe put a strain on the water pump by restricting the volume of water it can move? I'm an aircooled guy. I'm sure I missed a few pros and a cons, But I've just gone blank on some of them. And please excuse all spelling errors. Let me know guys. I'd sure love to have another perspective on this.
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Mike '04 R32 Tornado Red '02 New Beetle TDI - Daily driver '64 Ghia - Project!!-Subaru EJ20T, MS/EDIS, 993 brakes, 914 Tranny... |
#56
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Oh my goodness, I can't believe I, Mr. Technoklutz, am going to make a suggestion about a water-cooled conversion ... but here goes.
Make sure regardless of whatever method you choose and whatever material is being used you employ mandrel bends. An inch and a half or an inch and three-quarters won't mean squat if you have bends pinching off at seven-eighths in places. And now, back to the experts. |
#57
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theres pics on my site mikey that show how to run it down the tunnel, which is what i did.
1.5-1.75 inch pipe seems excessive in my mind. I mean, the subaru has like a 1 inch inside diameter outlet! and maybe 1.25 inlet. Just trying to save you guys some room, and limit the amount of coolant u are going to need, and trust me, its ALOT. -Ryan
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#58
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Thanks Oasis, anything helps.
73Notch, I was kinda figureing that the radiator I had came with bigger inlet and outlets than I needed. I was gonna ask you about your Suby, I either never remembered or you were away from AIM. What do you think about using 1.25 for send and return? still too much? As for going though the tunnel. I'm not sure if that's possible since my wish bone doesn't unbolt like yours.
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Mike '04 R32 Tornado Red '02 New Beetle TDI - Daily driver '64 Ghia - Project!!-Subaru EJ20T, MS/EDIS, 993 brakes, 914 Tranny... Last edited by Mikey; February 22nd 2006 at 01:18. Reason: I forgot a few details... |
#59
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all i did was widen the hole that the shift rod from the tranny goes through. Id assume that its the same or very similar on a bug.
the tubes exit side by side out the back, but run on top of eachother on the passenger side of the tunnel and exit on top of eachother out the front. -Ryan
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#60
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nicely done 73notch, coolant pipes on my EJ20TT are 1.5 inch outside diameter by the way. I've put my tubes underneath the car and it took just over 20 liters in total if I remember correct.
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