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  #211  
Old February 22nd 2012, 04:33
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hahaha, yeah, I know exactly how fragile they are. Once installed one in a rad hose adapter without being grounded. When a brass sensor grounds through the coolant, they dissolve real quick!

Hey Steve, 320.028 is exactly the sensor I need...but so far haven't been able to find anyone who carries one. Got any sources down-under?

Tonight it was back to work, and to start off with...back to the lathe.


What I ended up making was a temperature sender bung and dipstick tube for the dry-sump tank. Hopefully I can convince my buddy Gord to TIG weld them into the tank tomorrow, and then I can pop that back into the car.


From there it was onto the car, and the next major phase of construction. I finally got the metric Nutserts that I ordered in. They took three weeks to get here, but when they finally did the counter guy at Acklands-Grainger actually drove them 45min North to my house! The nutserts allow me to mount things where I can't reach the backside for a traditional nut, and where I don't want to wreck the paint with welding. So, at this point that probably means the whole car! The ones I order are shown to the left. With the serrations I've never had one spin out me, but always match material (steel to steel, aluminum to aluminum) so that if I ever did have one spin, I could probably tack-weld it to solve a problem. On the off chance you haven't installed these before, and decide to get some, don't buy the "special tool". The next size up nut (so the bolt passes through) and two washers is all you need to install them.


With the Nutserts in, and the swaf vacuumed up I was able to mount the Accusump for the final time.


With that mounted, it was time to start thinking about the lines and Accusump valve. I wanted something a little more accessible this time round, but also something that would remind me about valve #2 which will be the oil-tank cut-off valve. CanNOT forget that one! Here's where I think its going to go. With the valve in the closed position (as in the photo) the handle totally interferes with the parking brake and is definitely annoying/noticeable. When in the open position, however, it will lie down flat against the tunnel and be completely out of the way.


In order to continue the Accusump lines, and then make the mounts/tie downs for the valve, I need to know where the Oil Cooler Thermostat is going to go. The Accusump line will Tee into the outlet, which goes to the engine, so I have know where that will line up so I can put the bulkhead fitting in. Making oil lines like this is one part being able to think in 3D, and two parts having a tonne of fittings on hand. You want to be able to try different degree fittings, and then switch it all up and re organize. The problem, of course, is that as you start building lines you start eating into you stash of fittings! Fortunately I had enough to figure out that the combination of a 45 and 90 will allow me to get the lines right into the thermostat without binding up the lines. Even though this is all well hidden under the car, at least I know it will be neat and orderly!


I was going to keep going, but realized that I'm missing one fitting I need, so I might as well wait until tomorrow...

-Dave
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  #212  
Old February 22nd 2012, 08:36
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Hi Dave

I will check my local flaps tomorrow for a sender. Do you need anymore metric nutserts?

I came across the correct tool for them made by Wurth, I love it

Steve

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  #213  
Old February 22nd 2012, 13:33
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Haha, one thing I do not need is more Metric Nutserts! When I realized how tough they would be to get, I cleaned out the warehouse :-) I've got 200xM5, 200xM6 and 100xM8. I don't think I'll run out for a while!

Hmmm...that tool does look trick. Will look into it.

Thank you for checking on the temp sender.

-Dave
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  #214  
Old February 23rd 2012, 03:42
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Alrighty, so I mounted up the valve for the Accusump. In hindsight I wish I had mounted the Accusump in front of the driver's or passenger seat, thus allowing for only one line and the valve right at the sump. The problem with that, however, is that I need the leg room for long trips and I usually mount the fire extinguisher in front of the passenger seat. Oops! Oh well. The valve mount is a little "industrial" compared to the rest of the build, but I'd need to turn up some mounts on a CNC mill to improve it. That's out of the budget, so this will have to suffice! The E-Brake needs to be applied to close the Accusump, but if I tweak the handle just a little on the valve it will clear regardless. Closed and Open:


The long line is growing on me, especially since I was able to make it match the tunnel lines. It hasn't been anchored down yet, but will be once I have the line to the engine run as well.


In order to do the line from the valve to the engine, I needed to mount up the oil cooler and thermostat, to see where the line was going. I made and attached most of the lines outside of the car, which made them a lot easier to get properly torqued down.


Without a temp sender solution, I did the next best thing. I've got the adapter fitting installed, and simply capped off the hole with an NPT plug. If I sort out a temp sender, I can simply add it in. And if not, I only put in one extra fitting for no reason ;-)


And the maze begins! The "third line" going up and over is the Accusump to Engine line. This one is short, as it's only going from the bulkhead fitting to the tee.


By the time I had reached this point, I had pricked my hands with stainless steel needles enough for one night! Back at it tomorrow

-Dave
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  #215  
Old February 23rd 2012, 09:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owdlvr View Post
Haha, one thing I do not need is more Metric Nutserts! When I realized how tough they would be to get, I cleaned out the warehouse :-) I've got 200xM5, 200xM6 and 100xM8. I don't think I'll run out for a while!

Hmmm...that tool does look trick. Will look into it.

Thank you for checking on the temp sender.

-Dave
I use a Kobe rivnut setting tool for the M4, M5 and M6 blind rivnuts (nut serts etc), It cost me £24. Its a two handed operation and can be used with a cordless drill etc but I use a 1/4" ratchet that sets them perfectly every time. For the M8 and M10s I use a tool that looks like the Landrover one that consists of two pieces of 1/2" steel bar with two 5/16" UNF bolts that force the bars apart and a hole through both to fit a bolt that holds the rivnut on one side. The whole thing is closed up and a rivnut is put on that goes through the panel hole. The bars are forced apart that causes the rivnut to set. The important thing here is that the rivnut can't rotate, which you can get using just a single bolt to set the nut causing it to unwind. If I have a problem with the Landrover style tool is that I can overdo the clamping force that causes the top of the riv nut to collapse, closing the hole and making the setting bolt difficult to get out easily.
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  #216  
Old February 24th 2012, 04:43
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i have a air powered tool for rivnuts. it could double as a torture tool as the part that slides is right were the web between your thumb and finger wants to sit on the handle. means you have to watch how you hold it or it pinchs you and you have to recycle it to get your hand out. how do i know this?......
has to be set right or you can pull steel m10 serts inside out but you can do m4 alloy serts with it.
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  #217  
Old February 24th 2012, 05:26
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Hi Dave

The sender from my local guy is $27.50 au, let me know if you want one.

Steve
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  #218  
Old February 24th 2012, 14:02
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Thanks Steve!

I sent you and email through the site, let me know if you don't receive it.

-Dave
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  #219  
Old February 24th 2012, 21:59
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Might try these guys too -- http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?...=250F_120C_VDO
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  #220  
Old February 25th 2012, 05:23
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Tried egauges before asking Steve to pick one up for me. Heck, even tried VDO North America!


Progress for today seems small, but these things take a while! I got the Accusump line from valve to bulkhead and from bulkhead to thermostat finished. Then I moved onto the feed line from tank to bulkhead, and mounted the oil-filter mount. This mount will get swapped out for a freshie, but for now it will serve well to setup the hoses. More lines tomorrow!

-Dave
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  #221  
Old February 26th 2012, 01:09
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So on our local Vancouver forum there was much discussion about my use of hard-90's for the entrance into the oil cooler. Debate over how much they restrict flow was heavy, but with all agreeing that they were definitely restrictive. While I have to admit I really wasn't feeling pulling the oil cooler again, it's better to do things right vs. getting them done. My bigger problem was the fact that I've drilled and mounted two bulkhead fittings that rely on the thermostat being in the same place. So, first job was to make a "pattern" of the setup:


And after a bunch of time playing with fittings, hose and more then a little colourful language...I got it all setup in a relatively close fashion. Flow through this setup should be significantly better I would think.


It was quite close to not working out...this is the hose I had to make for the oil filter return. 4 more millimeters and it wouldn't be going together!


There was one additional advantage to changing the setup, I was able to move the Accusump return T to the bottom of the thermostat. This will give me more clearance between the fitting and the panel, which I'm glad to see. On the left is the old setup, and on the right is the new setup.


Finished up the rest of the oil lines inside the car, except for the oil tank breather. I haven't decided what to do about the breather setup yet, so I'll deal with that one a little down the road.


...and just in case you're wondering how I'll change the filter...


A buddy Geoff has already commented on the risk of mounting the filter in the car, and subsequent oil-showers, but I always use Bosch, Mann or Mahle filters and have never had an issue with failures. Might have to box it in just be sure though!

-Dave
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  #222  
Old February 26th 2012, 02:57
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...and I've discovered the master is faulty. Or, at least an issue and needs to be removed to be diagnosed. Sigh.

-Dave
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  #223  
Old February 26th 2012, 12:01
Bradey Bunch Bradey Bunch is offline
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Whats the issue? I seem to recall you were having trouble bleeding the system (but maybe that was someone elses thread...). Anyways, how is the pedal pushrod adjustment?
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  #224  
Old February 26th 2012, 15:15
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On the rear inlet from the reservoir: the master is leaking either between the white nipple and black grommet, or the black grommet and the body...it's too tight up there to determine exactly, but it's definitely leaking. The fabric on the hose is dry, which leads me to believe it's between the rubber and the body. Will double check that shifting the reservoir lines around doesn't help, but I suspect its coming out.

-Dave
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  #225  
Old February 27th 2012, 04:45
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what do you race regs say about having the oil system inside the car? i know here in the uk it all has to be separate from the driver with a baulkhead between. the breather needs to be outside the drivers compartment , mines in the front of the car and the fumes still make there way into the car.
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