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  #16  
Old October 18th 2005, 15:23
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73notch 73notch is offline
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im running a solid mid mount, so the engine is just hanging off the frame horns, like the stock engine, but im going to incorporate a rear hanger eventually.

on my site, you can see a pic of my down/exit pipe, from the turbo, it does a 180 above the axle, and then slopes down then up a lil. it wasnt too tough, but you have to be carful making that 180 because it can get close to the axle.
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  #17  
Old October 19th 2005, 18:59
scoobytuner scoobytuner is offline
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how hard are you able to drive the car?

what boost levels are you running? do you have any sort of idea on how fast your car actually is? Any real world comparisons, races, track numbers, ect ect.
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  #18  
Old October 20th 2005, 02:34
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73notch 73notch is offline
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i can floor it and shift at about 6-6.5K rpms. its fast. Not sure how much power it is making at its current tune.
its only running about 5psi right now, i am going to turn it up eventually though with my boost controller.
i have an exhaust leak on the crossover pipe on the header, u know the flex area, i need to fix that too.
and when i say floor it, it is only getting ~80% throttle.

reason i havent rushed to boost it or get 100% throttle is because im using the stock tranny right now, and i cant risk breaking down haha. thanksgiving or christmas vacation, im putting in the porsche 901 tranny, then i can push it a little more.

a few questions for you,

ive been told these engines can be run on ~15psi reliably, even up to 20, but 15 will be plenty. if i run that do i need different injectors?
Also, do you have any maps or can you give me an idea on what these motors like ignition wise? crusing rpms i have it at about 26-30 right now, everywhere else is somewhere near 20 degrees.

thanks,
-Ryan
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Last edited by 73notch; October 20th 2005 at 02:41.
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  #19  
Old October 20th 2005, 09:47
scoobytuner scoobytuner is offline
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that motor, actually came with 14 psi from the factory iirc. and depending on what block you have, you can push well over 20 psi from the factory, with actually small upgraded turbos, and retain most to all of the reliability.

the ej20 blocks out there are as follows... (if any of this is wrong, someone chime in)

-ej205 02-05 wrx non sti. one of the weakest bottom ends, and least agressive valve train. stock comes with 227hp in usdm form, and 217ish in the uk version. good for abour 400hp reliability. people have reached about 400whp for very short periods of time. and maybe 320-340 as a pretty darn high point. its hard to tell you what drivetrain loss is. ive run 21 psi on a bone stock 205 in my 02 wrx with the factory turbo, on the factory 380cc injectors, and just fuel mapping. and about 18 psi on a VF30 turbo, with injector duty cycles at about 97 percent.

-ej207 circa mid 90s- current jdm sti 8-8500 rpm redline, forged bottom end (besides pistons) closed deck block, large port heads, AVCS and more agressive cams. stock hp is somewhere between 280-320, some motors come with awesome twin scroll turbo setups for really lag free power, and an 8k redline. the strongest motor besides the fabled 22b engine, and the -ej257 or even 255 (06 WRX only) i know of many low 11 second 3000+ lbs wrxs on ej207 motors bone stock, with just turbo and upgraded supporting mods. people are making 400whp-450whp very relieably, and I even know of one guy making 504whp with 33 psi boost on a gt35R turbo STOCK LONGBLOCK!!! the bottom end showing NO signs of letting up, and the heads/cams combo being the huge limiting factor.

-ej20g early 90s stis (i think but im not sure) closed deck 2.0 liter and somewhat stronger than the ej205 as well. I dont know crap about these, but they ARE stronger than the ej205. they came in some sort of sti in the early 90s or somewhere around there, but i dont know what specifically. again. they are more stout closed deck blocks than the fragile 205 open deck non forged block.

there are other forms of ej20s, but i dont know what the variations are. im not too much of a jdm fan, but i have respect for alot of them.

FYI, the ej257 which can be found in all 04-06 stis, as well as the forester XTs for 04-05, and the legacy gt same years, are the strongest highest power capability motors that subary has made in full production lines. the shortblock can be swapped with virtually any head combonation, and will support huge turbos, and awesome power.

those blocks are all the same (i think) and the STi blocks have made about 465 whp on pump gas in the US, and 565 wheel hp on race gas, in totally stock form. the bottom end showed NO signs of giving up, while the heads actually choked the turbo out at anything above 33 psi. literally stalling the turbo out, and causing compressor stall. many many many people are making 500+wheel hp with 04+ stis and never seeing problems with the motors holding apart.

subaru motors like timing. the combustion chambers do not promote a very efficient quick burn, so the timing must be advanced alot more than say the EVO motors, which burn the mixture right when you light it off.

my bone stock ej205 with stock turbo and stock top mount intercooler, liked to run about 20-21 degrees timing at peak boost, peak volumetric efficiency, and then as boost starts falling off, and rpms climb, i ramped the timing up to about 28 degrees or so. that tune, was my agressive 91 utah pump tune, and would some times show slight signs of wanting to knock. (very small knock counts) running on a standalone that does not monitor and correct for knock, I would recommend pulling about 3 degrees across the board, depending on the setup. When I ran that boost level on race gas, (literally just disconnecting the WG actuator, and letting the turbo run as high as it could) I turned the timing up to about 25-26, ramping up to 30+ at redline.

my ej25 (rs2.5 block) fully built (pistons, rods, sleeves, crank, balanced, ect ect with headwork) creates a much more efficient burn, and I used much larger turbo chargers that flow alot more air, and want to still see about 14-17 degrees timing at peak torque, 20 psi boost, and then taper to just over 20-22ish at redline.

cruising, you can set the timing at like 35 degrees if you want, and I do. watching the ECU run the car at cruise, sometimes it gets into the low 40s. it wants to advance the timing as far as it possbily can, before seeing knock, and it virtually wont see knock ever at no load. try it out, if you want to, but the weight of your car, im sure you dont need help getting up hills off boost.
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  #20  
Old February 13th 2006, 00:29
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Mikey Mikey is offline
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I'm a good way into my Suby conversion in my Ghia. See thread...

http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=7050

I don't have the engine yet, but I still want to get this computer figured out before I have the engine in and sitting for weeks while I figure the computer out. I went to your site, I saw what you bought, but I'm VERY UNfimiliar with mega squirt. I'm totally lost. I don't want to go with a stock ECU, that looks like a nightmare and a half.

Can you help me? I'd REALLY appreciate the help. :shrug:
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