#1
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How much bias to set up front to rear?
How much do I set up front and rear with the balance bar? Experience with this? These are 924T brakes all around on a '73 1303, stock engine and trans for now.
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#2
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Keep doing hard braking, if you have room small curves under heavy braking, and by heavy I mean in and out of lockup or whats called threshold braking. The front should aways break loose first, then keep adjusting till the rear just starts to break loose too, then play around to whatever your comfortable with, some people like less, some more, but what you don't want is the back end to lock up before the front, your rear end will come around very quickly in that mode.
Jason
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If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights.... 1960 VW Bug UBRDUB Walkaround 1st Drag Run Dyno Run Oval Ragster-'57 Rag/'04 Boxster S |
#3
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Thanks I'll try that.
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#4
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As Jason says set the balance bar so that you have the front brakes locking up momentarily before the rears. This is the safe way round for highway use and track use. What you don't need is the rear locking up first unless you are proficient at the 'Scandinavian double flick' i.e where the rear slews one and then the other way to induce a pendulum effect to power around tight corners. Having had a Mini with rear brake bias, I can tell you that rear becomes almost uncontrollable if it locks up first, which can be embarassing (or painful) in a panic stop. Locking up the fronts first keeps the car stable although you do lose steering input.
BTW have you tried your pedal arrangement with pads and fluid in? It looks from the photo that the whole system is mounted to the drilled angle that spans across between arches? I think you might find that the angle will twist when you exert 100-150lbs of foot pressure that translates to a torsional thrust of 500-750lbs. If its not braced then try it out with a buddy on the pedal whilst you watch the effect on the assembly. The more solid the mount the greater the feel. Clive |
#5
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Quote:
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#6
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Quote:
Clive |
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