Fuel line solutions...

[boygenius]

Ok so I bought some 3/8" and 1/4" stainless steel fuel line for my car and is it ever a pain in the but to bend. Since I will have 2 fuel lines I don't think they will both fit through the top of the tunnel like the factory line did. I was thinking of bringing them out the right side of the frame head opposite the M/C. Maybe just drilling an extra hole in the frame head next to the original hole. Can somebody post some pics of the the area under the fuel tank on the right side of the car (standard). My body isn't on the chassis right now and I don't wan't to run into any problems when the body goes back on.

[nbturbo]

If you look at what the new cars are coming out with,just try to copy what they use.Here in Australia they use 10mm supply and 8mm return(3/8 and 5/16) and use plain/ordinary steel tubing.As I said,just use the same pipe that used for brake lines because it is steel with a coating of some sort which is the same as OE fuel lines.You will find it a lot easier to bend with simple tools and get it into your pan.I have run the 8mm return alongside of the original 5mm fuel pipe and it goes into and exits the pan just near the 5mm one.The 10mm one was easy to get out the back thru the rear yoke(a couple of inches away from the other 2 and all in line ) but was a bastard to try and get out the front-so drilled a hole in the side of the front frame opposite the brake M/Cyl and put a 90 bend in the pipe and pulled it thru.Have made a small aluminium bracket and used one of those insulated clamps just pictured here. just to clarify-I put the tube thru the pan and had spare hanging out each end.I put the bend in the pipe at the front(coming out the inspection hole for the removal of the shift rod) and flared the end to hold hose then slowly pulled it towards the back until the bend came near the hole in the frame head-I had it bent so that there was some tension against the inside of the pan-when I could see it thru the hole I forced it out the hole by pulling and levering from the inside-it took a couple of goes but ended up OK. Fitted the bracket and clamp.At the back you have to manipulate this a bit at the same time to keep it with a nice flowing bend where it comes out the pan.when all was OK just cable tied them all together thru the gearshift coupling hole as far forward as possible,this will test you hands.Last job just cut the excess pipe off at the rear and put a flare on it.I just use a double flare kit but only do about half of the first part of the process.Gives a lovey shoulder to seal hose.

[boygenius]

Can anybody recommend a good tube flaring kit. I already broke part of the one I bought and all it does is bend the end over instead of flaring it. For refferance I am running 3/8" and 1/4" stainless steel fuel lines. Thanks...

[boygenius]

Originally Posted by boygenius

Can anybody recommend a good tube flaring kit. I already broke part of the one I bought and all it does is bend the end over instead of flaring it. For refferance I am running 3/8" and 1/4" stainless steel fuel lines. Thanks...

Anybody.... It looks like I will either have to buy a $250 dollar flaring tool to flare my stainless steel lines or replace them with mild steel lines or even aluminum.

[NO_H2O]

Or take it to a shop that makes lines and let them do it. Look at aeroquip's web site and find a place near you, them more than likely can flare your stuff.

[GS guy]

Another option is to install Swagelock tube fittings on the ends of the tubing. You can go from straight tube to pipe, or AN, or various other connections depending on the fitting used. These come in stainless steel and when properly installed (key statement here), the connection pressure rating is equal to the tubing itself. These are generally designed to work with ~0.035" wall tubing. Here is a SS 3/8" tube to -6AN adapter fitting:

http://www.swagelok.com/PRODUCTDETAI...e=&CTSCKey=189

Not cheap, but these are precision made high quality industrial grade fittings. The -6 tube adapter fitting above lists for around $11.00 each, which IMO is very reasonable considering the material and quality.

[boygenius]

Originally Posted by NO_H2O

Or take it to a shop that makes lines and let them do it. Look at aeroquip's web site and find a place near you, them more than likely can flare your stuff.

I would but I would have to bring the whole car since the fuel lines aren't coming out without a fight. They took me 4 hours to get them in and up through the frame horns. Besides I have been thinking, I don't think I will be able to bend the lines to get them to come out of the side of the frame head. The darn lines are just too tough... Mild steel lines should be good for the next 20 years or so , right?