#1
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Finally! Let's Paint!
OK....soooo...when are we going to start covering
painting techniques? I want to discuss everything from etching primers, clear coats, and proper sanding methods to mig/tig welds, bondo, body grafts, form tools and custom bits. Roll it on out people... |
#2
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Let's get it on.
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#3
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YES!!!
I need to get going on my bodywork, from leveling dents to filling molding holes to rust repair to striping the paint and replacing both aprons and fenders. My first question is what is the best method of stiping the paint other than blasting or chemicals. Is a DA (dual action) sander best? Then, the right way to weld up the molding (chrome) holes? THEN, body filler. what brand works best and how should it be applied, and then leveled and smoothed out? I have some other questions on instaling "NACA" air duct in the lower 1/4 pannels but will ask those later when i have more time. Thanks! Jonathan
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FULL SPEED AHEAD, HARD AND FAST! Current cars: -74 Super Beetle -86 Vanagon Syncro -64 sunroof bug -73 thing |
#4
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Using a da is time consuming but if thats the only then sand with 60-80 grit to remove the paint.Then sand with150-180 grit on the bare metal to remove tha sandscratches from the 60-80 sanderpaper.If no rust repair or dent repair is needed then clean with a wax and grease remover and spray an etch primer and then primer surfacer.Next shoot a guidcoat lightly over the surfacer and block with 240 grit using a longboard sander to make sure the panel is straight. How to tell its straight is when you sand all the black guidecoat and you see all the primer but don't sand to the metal.When only the primer is visible shoot the guidecoat lightly again and wetsand with a long rubber block with 600 grit.Then paint.
To weld the holes if you got a mig welder use 023 size wire. Plug weld those holes. If you don't have a welder then use an acetylene tourch and brazing rod to weld.Grind the welds until the welds are very slightly above the panel then using a countersink hammer pound just that areas down to countersink the metal 1/16.Then clean the metal apply the rage gold bondo and sand with a block 150 grit (since the bondo is fairly little amount) then block sand 240 grit,etchprime,primer surfacer and blocksand and paint. |
#5
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Quote:
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=EuroLook71= 71' Super Beetle 1.6L DP - Kadrons, stock heads P&P by me |
#6
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Quote:
I agree completely. I used TAL-STRIP made by mar-hyde with good results. One tip though, the tempurture needs to be at the minimum temperture required by the directions. I tried to use it when it was cold out and it hardly worked at all. Once the tempurture warmed up the stuff worked pretty good. I had to brush it on 3 time to get all the paint off. If you use a pressure washer to remove the stripper it takes most of the paint with it.
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car. 1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM... 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe |
#7
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Here is another vote for the aircraft stripper.
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67ghia, 2.3T mid engine conversion, tube frame dbl a-arm, rx7 brakes, currently in parts collection/bodywork stages. |
#8
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I could use some help with paint at the mo' Cool thread, long overdue
I've just (last weekend) stripped 4 shades of yellow off the whole rear half of my Beetle back to steel with just 2 3M 'Clean N Strip' discs, drill mounted. I wiped/blew/vac'ed the dust away then used Upol Acid #8 rattle can. Followed by a beige 2k filler primer by Palinal. Applied with an Earlex HVLP Spray Station £70 :agree: Engine bay and rear innerwings were coated with a light textured Upol overpaintable stone chip between the primers. Just got to decide if I really want to stick with the same colour (got the paint already sleepless nights) For filling light dings I used Holts Cataloy knifing putty. I should be out the back giving it the wet 1200 treatment but the show (Deva Dubs and Rods) is tomorrow... Matt |
#9
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looking good matt...
but c'mon... gerra move on !
(i can talk ! ) see u around at deva. Angelo
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Type 3 Fastback |
#10
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Preppin' For Paint
Here's what I did to get my car ready for paint.
Tools/Materials: ** Filler (crestnetsales.com) -- Evercoat "Z-Grip" filler (FGE 282) and "Metal Glaze" (FGE 416) polyester finish worked well for me. They can be mixed together to give medium viscosity. A gallon of z-grip was more than enough for the entire car. ** Fileboard (crestnetsales.com) -- Norton 80 grit blue magnum (NOR 23608) and Norton 120 grit champange magnum (NOR 31689). Used 1/2 box 80 grit and 45 yard roll of 120 grit. ** Supplies (crestnetsales.com) -- clean sheets mixing palette (GLE 1800), spreaders (CRS PPS1), cheese grater (USC 80596). ** Tools (eastwooodco.com) -- 6" palm sander (31171) for 80 grit; flexible 15" sander (31143) for 120 grit; 5.5" tear drop sander (31156) for tight spots. Good prices on filler, fileboard, and supplies at Crest Industries. Metal prep: * Body off, disassemble to shell. * Metal work as required -- rust repair, hammer out dents, panel replacement, etc. * Body and parts stripped to bare metal by pro's (Class "A" Powdercoat, Sacramento) -- call hot rod shops to find pro stripper in your area -- don't trust rusty car to ammetuer blaster (panel warpage/rust blow thru). * Primed with epoxy sealer Body work: 1. Roughen dented areas with 80 grit to remove gloss of epoxy primer. 2. Wipe with laquer thinner to clean surface. 3. Apply filler. 4. Used "cheese grater" file to shape globs of filler after about 5 minutes. After 20 minutes, use 80 grit to knock down shaped filler then block sanded with 120 grit. Change paper often and let the paper do the work. 5. Refill low spots as required. 6. Prime bare metal spots. 7. Seam seal as required. Cost/Time: * Tools and materials cost about $250. * Paint stripping and priming cost $580 (body, hood, deck, running boards, bumpers, handles, headlight assy, fuel tank, misc. pieces) * 60 hrs labor in body work (much longer than would take a pro). The body work turned out good. It was hard work, but rewarding to see the results. At $60/hr shop rate, I think I saved a bunch of $ even after buying the tools/materials. Having a pro strip and epoxy prime the car was well worth the money. I couldn't imaging doing as good a job with chemicals or sanding. The body is being painted next week. Porsche Lapis Blue / 2004 GT Silver with PPG. Attachments show stripped and primered shell. |
#11
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Looks clean Bill! Big respect for the time and effort.
I gave up on deciding, so yellow it is. Palinal 2k VW Ginster (as in pastie) Yellow. I'm not sure if I like the colour already but... I dare say I'll spray a few real disasters before I call myself a painter, less than halfway: |
#12
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nice details Bill. your well on your way too. can't wait to see the finished product. you have a killer ride coming.
Matt, i like the color. quality of the finished product will much depend on what accessories you augment the color with, but i like the color.
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zen '73 2316 TIV GL Standard Bug (quasi) Company Branding, Graphic Design, and Web Services at DigiVinci Design |
#13
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Thanks Zen, I plan to keep this Beetle, I've only gone for a near match with the colour as the car will be back in use for Bug Jam the front will only get a blow-over for now..
I've restored the rear half prior to a new Mohair roof, can't wait for that Matt |
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