Questions about VW1302RSis ride

[VW1302RSi]

Click here for more information on this ride.

[What-r-u-doing]

Nice job, Dude thanks for the e-mail looking at that is going to make the night shift pass faster, a bit like your car then...faster lol.

Scott can't wait to get back home to NZ and Drive it, well better go and make sure the monkies are torquing up those wing bolts now..wouldn't want those to fall off...lol-

Phil

[ricola]

Nice to have another scooby powered VW on here

Do you have some more/better pics of the engine/cooling set-up?

Rich

[VW1302RSi]

Hi Ricola

There are some pic's at http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com/
I have only just got the car on the road, most of the pic's I have so far are poor quality and of the build.

When it stops raining i'll get some more pic's up of the car.

Phil -what are you doing dude, you should be watching those monkies instaid of surfing for porn again you'll go blind, remind me not to fly with you guys.

Scott

[LOAF]

Nice ride,

I have a few questions pertaining to your set up..

Can you tell me more about your coil over conversion for the rear.

As far as the Scooby engine did you rotate the intake manifold? How hard was to wire in the ECU. The LINK system is piggyback or standalone? Assume you spliced the harness to work with the VW?

Lastly I will be snagging a 2.5 RS short block engine and hopefully mating it to a 2.2 heads and intake maybe some cams (depending on $$). How do you like the power from the 2.5?

Thanks
Loaf

[VW1302RSi]

Hi Loaf

Thanks for the comments,

“Can you tell me more about your coil over conversion for the rear”
The rear dampers are adjustable Spax coilover units that I had to modify. The problem is that the IRS arm gets in the way of the spring and the threaded part of the damper is at the lower end of the body, so I had two problems 1- I needed to move the spring platform up the damper body and 2- I needed very short springs.
1- I had a tube machined up with the same thread on it fitted it on the upper part of the damper body, with a slight interference fit and a bit of locktight. The load is taken by the original threaded portion as the new part is butted up to it. Make sense?
2- I worked out what spring rated I needed, the free length, fitted length, from there I worked out what the spring dimensions would be and check to see if coil bind would occur before the suspension bottomed out and as I was happy with results I had them made.

“As far as the Scooby engine did you rotate the intake manifold?”
Yes I turned the inlet manifold around 180 degrees so I didn’t have to cut a hole in the fire wall, hardest part of the job was making the alternator mounts.

”How hard was to wire in the ECU. The LINK system is piggyback or standalone?”
The Link ECU is a standalone system (www.link-electro.co.nz) it’s not a bad unit and it’s made here in New Zealand so back up is good. I didn’t have any issues wiring up the ECU but if you don’t have the experience or the skills pay someone to do it, a good auto electrician will make it look like it was meant to be there not an addition.

“Assume you spliced the harness to work with the VW?”
Yes and No, I made a complete new ECU/Engine loom, Battery and alternator loom and an Auxiliary loom.
1- The ECU/Engine loom only connects to the stock loom via the original feed from the ignition switch to the coil and this operates a relay that provides the 12V power feed to the ECU and engine loom and it also connects to the oil pressure idiot light wire.
2- The Battery and alternator loom connect to the stock loom via the generator idiot light wire and the main 12V feed that supplies power up to the fuse box.
3- The Auxiliary loom goes to the front of the car for the fuel pump, both radiator fans, water temperature gauge, tachometer, gauge earths and some spare wires, this only connects to the stock loom for a power feed for the fuel pump and fans.
4- There are also two new fuse relay boards one at the front and one in the back.
So I guess if you removed all the stock loom I would just need a power feed to the front of the car and the ECU and a couple of idiot lights to drive the car

“Lastly I will be snagging a 2.5 RS short block engine and hopefully mating it to a 2.2 heads and intake maybe some cams (depending on $$). How do you like the power from the 2.5?”
I’m not sure what Subaru engines you have available were you are, we have a 2.5L NA in the Legacy, Outback and Forester and a 2.5L Turbo in the WRX Impreza, so I don’t know what a 2.5 RS engine is? I guess the heads you’re taking about are the DOHC units and I’m assuming that you aren’t going to turbo it, I don’t know how much more power you would get from the DOHC heads?

At the moment I’m happy with the power I have from a stock 2.5L SOHC, but that I’m sure I’ll want more soon.

After reading your comment “How do you like the power from the 2.5?” You got me wondering about performance bla bla and that i'm at work and bored, so I did some checking on Subaru’s NZ website and Porsche’s UK site, and knowing what power and weight a stock 1302 has I came up with the following ********.

Stock 1302s
830 Kgs 44Kw 53Kw per 1000Kg or 18.8Kg/Kw
2.5T WRX Impreza
1430Kgs 169Kw 118Kw per 1000Kg or 8.4Kg/Kw
2.5T STI WRX Impreza
1495Kgs 206Kw 137Kw per 1000Kg or 7.2Kg/Kw
911 Carrera 3.6L
1470Kgs 239Kw 162Kw per 1000Kg or 6.1Kg/Kw
911 Turbo
1660Kgs 353Kw 212Kw per 1000Kg or 4.7Kg/Kw
And my car assuming that it weighs 70Kg more than a stock 1302 and has the same power as a standard 2.5L Outback then…………
900Kg 121Kw 118Kw per 1000Kg or 7.4Kg/Kw

Your right Loaf not enough power -down to the breakers its time to get a 2.5L STI WRX motor….. bugger I’m dribbling again that would be
910Kg 206Kw 226Kw per 1000Kg or 6.4Kg/Kw
Hmmmmmm more than the 911 Turbo- WOW I’m feeling light headed all the blood has rushed away from my head.

Well that was a load of ******** but it did achieve one thing…… its knock off time.

What a busy day………….