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  #31  
Old January 20th 2011, 12:40
coolrydes coolrydes is offline
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Hello, Kevin "Coolrydes" Zagar here.
If you guys want more info one making a type one handle take a look at this forum http://www.germanlook.net/forums/sho...light=mendeola and or ask my questions.... PS our kits are NOT very expensive.
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  #32  
Old May 31st 2011, 15:26
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
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I did some reading at boxergasse forum and found this topic, 1200 chassis vs 02/03 chassis:


http://boxergasse.forumieren.de/t53-...-1200-vs-02-03.

I translated most interesting answer:

I had the opportunity recently to go after work when driving at Hockenheim, the pink 1200 by Stefan. Basically, driving the car is not bad. However, I discovered that the steering forces to be many times higher than me on my 03er. My VW Beetle, you can easily drive around the course with the 1200 you have to work like a hard worker. Similarly, there are serious differences in the implementation of the steering commands my 03er runs spontaneously and accurately, the short front end a bit cumbersome and imprecise. For me personally, just a long front end comes as a race car in question. Did the whole Vorderachsgeschichte with my yellow Beetle indeed already been through. The axis is simply too unstable to support levers bend tried cornering, etc. Have everything possible supporting lever mounted in bronze, no more front torsion bars, Lenkhenbel changed you will never go there when driving a long front end.
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  #33  
Old May 31st 2011, 15:33
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
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I did some reading at boxergasse forum and found this topic, 1200 chassis vs 02/03 chassis:


http://boxergasse.forumieren.de/t53-...-1200-vs-02-03.

I translated most interesting answer:

I had the opportunity recently to go after work when driving at Hockenheim, the pink 1200 by Stefan. Basically, driving the car is not bad. However, I discovered that the steering forces to be many times higher than me on my 03er. My VW Beetle, you can easily drive around the course with the 1200 you have to work like a hard worker. Similarly, there are serious differences in the implementation of the steering commands my 03er runs spontaneously and accurately, the short front end a bit cumbersome and imprecise. For me personally, just a long front end comes as a race car in question. Did the whole Vorderachsgeschichte with my yellow Beetle indeed already been through. The axis is simply too unstable to support levers bend tried cornering, etc. Have everything possible supporting lever mounted in bronze, no more front torsion bars, Lenkhenbel changed you will never go there when driving a long front end.
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  #34  
Old November 1st 2011, 17:07
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Then the rest of the car is set up Incorrectly, possibly rear steering, its not because its a b/j beam. I had a top sports car racer, complete with double wish bone front suspension and 9" slicks of course, come over to my pitch to slap hands with me after a good race long fight to the flag last weekend, respect he said, but i do hate that car of yours
says it all realy, thats what i want to hear, thats when you know your doing something right, even better when they stump up the protest fee and lose it, it must be because Beetles are seen as slow, especially as it still has its torsion beam.
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  #35  
Old November 7th 2011, 11:52
strokeit strokeit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spannermanager View Post
Then the rest of the car is set up Incorrectly, possibly rear steering, its not because its a b/j beam. I had a top sports car racer, complete with double wish bone front suspension and 9" slicks of course, come over to my pitch to slap hands with me after a good race long fight to the flag last weekend, respect he said, but i do hate that car of yours
says it all realy, thats what i want to hear, thats when you know your doing something right, even better when they stump up the protest fee and lose it, it must be because Beetles are seen as slow, especially as it still has its torsion beam.
Hi Spanners.
I watched that race, it was great, you were really close, it certainly showed how your set up was heads above the other bugs racing, experience pays off.
look forward to seeing it out again soon showing up the others.
cheers.
Dan.
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  #36  
Old November 10th 2011, 13:11
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Hi Dan, glad you enjoyed it, and lots more to come from it, i was nursing a cracked disc and a very long brake pedal, so a bit of a sweat! the handling is where i want it, and good enough to allow me to get on with other things for now, ive cured the wheel lifting and spinning up the inside tyre , the slipper diff money ive saved is going towards better tyres, i need slicks to move forward, the whole grid is on 9", many are on 11"s, so i'm doing o.k on my treads, the OKRASA is going back in as we speak for another 40 bhp over the SPARE engine ive been using so that cant hurt things good to see people turning out, keep up the good work on yours, even if its a fat chick we need more 02/03s to hold up the pack while my axle beam gets going at the front
Somebody sent this you tube vid to me, i MAY just get a test in on the OKRASA before the weather turns, ill post up if so, cheers...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KclyY...eature=related
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  #37  
Old November 14th 2011, 13:52
strokeit strokeit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spannermanager View Post
Hi Dan, glad you enjoyed it, and lots more to come from it, i was nursing a cracked disc and a very long brake pedal, so a bit of a sweat! the handling is where i want it, and good enough to allow me to get on with other things for now, ive cured the wheel lifting and spinning up the inside tyre , the slipper diff money ive saved is going towards better tyres, i need slicks to move forward, the whole grid is on 9", many are on 11"s, so i'm doing o.k on my treads, the OKRASA is going back in as we speak for another 40 bhp over the SPARE engine ive been using so that cant hurt things good to see people turning out, keep up the good work on yours, even if its a fat chick we need more 02/03s to hold up the pack while my axle beam gets going at the front
Somebody sent this you tube vid to me, i MAY just get a test in on the OKRASA before the weather turns, ill post up if so, cheers...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KclyY...eature=related

Hi Spanners.
Thanks for the link, let us know the next time your at Lydden I will pop over as its 10 mins away, you mentioned getting slicks, you have seen my thread (fat chick) im thinking of changing my wheel combo from 7x15 fr - 9x15 rear with flared wings to my 6x14 revolutions ive had for many years fitted with 185/60x14 yoko 032R s do you think the car will handle better ?also with my stock wings, I would value your opinion.
Cheers.
Dan.
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  #38  
Old November 17th 2011, 14:26
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Dan, its hard to say if it would handle any better, in racing we are purely led by the watch, so its easy, i think i would keep what you have for now at least, as its a known quantity.
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  #39  
Old November 17th 2011, 18:16
strokeit strokeit is offline
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Hi Spanners.
OK, cheers for that, speak soon.
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  #40  
Old November 18th 2011, 07:08
Bruce. Bruce. is offline
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Spanners......

I'd be grateful if you could post a detailed spec of your suspension set-up. I'd did a quick search but didn't see this info elsewhere. Thanks.
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  #41  
Old November 19th 2011, 14:40
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Bruce, my front beam spec is nothing too special, the trick i believe is how its set up for different tracks/conditions, and getting the best from the tyres, there's many common knowledge mods that i wont use, stiffeners is one thing i avoid, at least untill i find i cant do without them, as i have no understeer whatsoever, i know its working well and so i am working on a new arb for next season, increasing from 22mm to 25, but tubular, also the rear 20mm bar robbed from a 996 is going to be replaced by a high mounted bar where the z bar would be on a standard, this bar and its fixings and the frame horns are the lowest part of the car, so i intend axing the frame horns, also to reduce weight further, ive been using a yoke for many years and ran with no frame horn fixings as a test this season to expand the feasability with no problems so far.
Anyway, to the beam, it uses split torsion bars for corner weighting purposes and to increase the poundage, i play with caster, usualy 12* but never less than two shims, some times more, to do this it needs drop spindles to prevent the tie rod bottoming on the frame. Camber is 3 1/2* with 're set' arms.. front arb is 20 mm adjustable. shoxs i play with, but keep coming back to gas spaxs. rear is 1303 with reduced camber by raised pivots, it needs reducing more so an arm flip is needed, 24mm rear tb with 20mm 996 tubular arb, i fancy 22mm short tb with saw adj' spring plates would be good too.
thats the crux of it really, nothing too special on back order to make down time painfully slow, as i do go to the edge with it and visit the wall for a chat on occasions, and most parts still have the VW logo on them. thanks for your interest.
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  #42  
Old November 21st 2011, 04:42
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judgie judgie is offline
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spanners, just goes to show a b/j irs set up can be made to work very well. to many folk get hung up on "trick" bits and dont learn how to set up and drive what they have.
The set up on my 03 is nothing trick, mostly stock 1303 parts. Dont have any big problems with the handerling and it can keep up with most things on the hills.
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  #43  
Old November 21st 2011, 11:44
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Hi Rob, thanks mate, and you are bang on as usual, most problems are basic, starting with incorrect tyre pressures and how to read them, then braking, and most are over braked and therefore not getting them up to temp' which again comes back to getting the tyres working at the right temp, mainly at the front, then the corner weights, WITH driver weight of course, which completes the circle, as corner weights dictate stopping ability directly, ie, the brake performance, i'm lucky being jockey sized.cheers.

Last edited by spannermanager; November 21st 2011 at 15:41.
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  #44  
Old December 9th 2011, 01:35
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DORIGTT DORIGTT is offline
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Hey Spannermanager,

I've got a few questions if you don't mind.
  1. What's the benefit of the wider front beam?
  2. What is meant by split tb front beam?
  3. 2.5L Wasserboxer? Watercooled or an Oxyboxer
?
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  #45  
Old December 9th 2011, 04:58
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Hi Mate, no probs, cool, the wider beam means more Lock can be used with bigger wheels and tyres, its more stable on bumps and trackside kerbs, and it generally helps improve turn in and handling, the t/bars are two piece like the rear, 4 swayaways are used to achieve this and stretch the beam , each bar can be set up separately for correct corner weights and heights. the Okrasa motor is 82 x 98, and its still a proper wasser boxer. hope that helps you.
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