Bend pushrod on #4 intake

[wrenchnride247]

Well, since i'm the only one replying to this thread... Gene Berg makes one that fits in a Mill, or drill press, and has good instructions too. I got one... wait for it... about eighteen years ago . I think it was about $60 US back then.

Did you get your PM?

[Moog]

Sorry to jump in here - I can't add anything new to the problems you are having, but can tell you a bit about the crankcase!

That is not an industrial engine crankcase - it is a Vanagon / T25 "CT" or "CZ" case - 1600 / 50hp aircooled from 05/79-12/82. Cooling fan was on the end of the crankshaft like a type3. Originally had hydraulic cam followers same as the 2.0 CU & waterboxers. If yours is now solid lifters then you will have had to use 2.0 CJ ones or bush the case & fit stock T1 lifters. It used Waterboxer pushrod tubes. Other features of the block are that it has the oil cooler mount closer to the distributor. Cooler lies flat like a type3 but on top of a large ally spacer block.

This engine was generally not reliable as it had marginal cooling in a heavy vehicle, so suffered from overheating, but it was a useful development that led to the waterboxer engine. It is an OK engine if you sort the cooling out, but not one i would do as a performance unit with original CT cooling.

Not many sold in USA - most sold in Europe and then it was only the bottom of the range - most went for the 2.0 CU engine.

Regards

Moog

[zeroaxe]

wrenchnride247,

yeah, got the PM. Trying to mock-up a 'system' to use a dial caliper to measure the valve lift. But I am stuck at the moment, because I cant seem to source a dial caliper anywhere(fast)!!! And a magnetic base support arm, almost impossible to find here. As rare as rocking horse droppings!! Visited 15.....yes count 'em... 15 shops on Friday with no luck. One said that it is not available at teh moment, and MIGHT be available in two weeks time, no gaurantee. And eBay France is of no help either So the heads are not making as much progress as I want

18 years, good lord! will this be what you are referring to?


Moog,

Thanks for pitching in. Indeed it is a CT case. I am sure that it is 2.0 CU lifters as we have not machined anything other than the cyl. sizes on the case. I will be looking into an alternative oil cooler with forced air to try and aid the cooling issues. If I am not happy with the results, I might just look into using it for something else

[zeroaxe]

PS. Where do you source your parts in the UK(specifically dual valve springs?). I have single stock springs on there and am SURE I have valve float....

[Moog]

Hi Zeroaxe - do i gather you are in France then, not USA as i first thought?

Valve springs - The company i work for sells dual valve springs, but not sure that you need them. If you have an Engle 110 then uprated single springs are necessary, but duals are not needed. BUT... an Engle 110 cam is not suitable for use with hydraulic cam followers! If you want to keep the hydraulic lifters then you need a hydraulic cam profile. So check your cam followers and cam. If it is an Engle 110 then use solid cam followers from a 1-7-2.0CJ engine (they will just slip in without any machine work) and use the the correct length pushrods for solid lifters (282mm long). On our own engines we will only use an Engle 110 cam with uprated pushrods, bolt up rocker shafts, and swivel feet adjusters.

I work for VW Heritage / Street style & Power in the UK. I won't post links here as this is not an advertising forum and i only post here out of my own personal interest, not a work interest, but you can easily find us online should you wish. There are loads of other places in the UK that sells these as well, so look in Volksworld magazine for adverts.

Regards

Moog

[zeroaxe]

Indeed, I have now updated my profile with my location

I will take a shot of the cam followers tomorrow, but am sure it is solids. I will go and measure the pushrods as well, as they are stock CT ones, and this might also add to the bend PR. And as I mentioned, the springs are stock too. Not helping is it?

I appreciate that you cant post any links here, but can I contact you via PM for more details?

Cheers!

Ps. Just a note about SSP website that you might feel bringing to attention of the web designer... There is a problem when one goes to the website, and view part/s, and leave the computer for a while. The session times out(which is understandable), however, the error message keeps on repeating via Windows popup messages. The problem is for example when one leaves the site 'open' and go to bed/not returning to the computer for a long time(to resume browsing later). I left the computer on once for two days or so before coming back to it, and there where so many pop-ups, that it actually cause my computer to crash! Silly me, not knowing the reason(blaming Windows as usual) re-visited the site and left it on again! Only this time I got back before the computer got 'overwelmed'. It had about 100+ popups though!

Sorry for the off topic addition to my post, but thought that it would help other (potential) vistors to Street Style and Power, or be of use to the web designer

[Moog]

Stock CT pushrods for Hydraulic tappets are 272mm, Standard 1300-1600 ones for solid lifters are 282mm, so you can't really get them mixed up as you can't even set the tappets!

No good PM-ing me tonight - i am off to Germany for the week at 5.00am tomorrow morning. I'm back next weekend, so we can talk then if you want.

Will pass on the info about the website, but didn't realise it does this. It doesn't seem to do it if i leave my home PC logged on to it? I'll let Bill our webby man know and see if he can tell me why.

A Bientot!

Moog

[wrenchnride247]

[QUOTE=zeroaxe]wrenchnride247,



18 years, good lord! will this be what you are referring to?



Yes thats it.

[zeroaxe]

wrenchnride247,

Thanks for that. I will be looking into getting one sometime soon I hope. I wont be doing a lot of different sizes often, so only one tool would be sufficient. I have got another question though. How does it 'attach' to the mill? In the picture, I cant see/make out how the tool fits the machine, and (to my shame) I can not recall how the one of my previous boss attached. I believe it was the same tool though.

Anyway, back on topic with some news/developements. Here is what were suggested by another aid I have:

I've arrowed some marks that suggest exhaust gasses escaping from the combustion chamber.



On reflection, if there are similar marks on the same side of #4 (I think) cyl,
here

this would be a good indication of the head not sitting square onto the cylinders.

And my response to this was:

Dayum, Keen eye you got there!!! And thanks. I didnt notice that before, but now I know for future.

The only way I can think of to check if the sleeves are sitting square on the engine case, is to bolt them down with spacers and check the 'level' in relation to each other. Problem is that the spacers will be pushing on the fins itself and crack them if torqued... Any other suggestions? And how can I possibly tell if the heads are sitting square after they are bolted on? All I can think of is putting (only)the sleeves in the head, and maybe try bolt them down somehow, and check the 'level' (???)

I will get some emery paper on those heads and re-lap the sleeves, this is turning out to be a very annoying experience (although I am learning from it!!! )

[wrenchnride247]

Zeroaxe, If you get mill set P/N GB 700B the cutter head comes with the 3/4 shank (for 3/4 mill collet) that threads into the 7/8 9 threaded hole in cutter. They do this so the cutter fits their drill press version also. The drill press version would be the easier one to set-up and use. The mill version can be a PITA if you've never used a mill before.

The pictures do show major head leaks, having poorly machined heads will do that.

Moog, thanks for posting. I'm glad someone else is wanting to help too.

[zeroaxe]

wrenchnride247,

I am now officialy confused, lol. Are you saying that there is an optional shank that needs to be bought for a drill press?(I meant to say earlier it is for a drill press I would like). I tried searching for a pic of the fly cutter assembled with the shank but came up empty handed...

[wrenchnride247]

The drill press version comes with a base that bolts to your head stud holes, and the shank and stop collar (so you get the hole depth the same, and centered on all cylinders every time ) this cost about $275 US in a 2000 copy of Berg price list I have, maybe higher now though. It includes everything need, but drill press.

[zeroaxe]

Well, here is a quick update...

Today I spend a lot of time modding my engine stand, adding a third 'arm'. I dont feel cofortable with a whole engine hanging only from the two arms. I have seen those mounting plates bend too much for my liking.(plus, the bottom stud that it would normally bolt onto has pulled it's thread again. I fixed it once already! should I try and get hold of helicoil inserts, or does it not really matter *that* much on a motor that is supported at the back with an engine bar(like a Vanagon/Transporter)?

Anyway, using this tool:

I found the following deck height readings with a vernier caliper.

#1 = 1.26mm/0.049"
#2 = 1.5mm/0.059
#3 = 1.26mm/0.049"
#4 = 1.22mm/0.048"

What do you guys make of this? Is this considered 'in spec'?

Tomorrow I hope to get the readings off the valves and check for coil/valve spring bind.

Thanks for your input!

[Moog]

I would say those readings are OK as far as making sure the pistons are not going to tap the heads while revving, BUT...

Variation from piston 1 to 2 is quite a bit - why is this? Is it piston variation, or are the cylinders sitting at different heights. Both cylinders on each side must be perfectly matched in order that the head sits square - if not then it sits askew and you blow out of one side of each chamber - as at least one of the heads seems to be blowing on one side of each cylinder only, maybe this is part of the problem?

With these deck height readings what does the compression ratio work out at - have you cc'd the combustion chambers to work it out?

Of course, there is still the possible issue of coil bind, and at least one valve tapping a piston - put some thin layer of plasticene / blu-tack on each piston crown, do a dry build, turn the engine over by hand, then take it apart to see the marks the valves leave in it - slice it carefully and you can measure how close the valve is getting to the piston crown.

Hope this helps...

Moog

[wrenchnride247]

moog "hit the nail on the head" as we say across the pond.

If your case was just opened up for larger p/c's then its could be the piston tops are a little thicker on top than one another(quite common), but if the case was "bored and decked" then one of the decks could have been machined a little too much .

P.S. you have a e-mail w/autocad program