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Subaru Turbo powered 1303s in the UK..
hi guys..
havent been on for a while ive been lost in the throws of enjoying the VW/subaru dream.. thought you might be interested in seeing a link to my 1303s 1975 German looker with a subaru 2L turbo heart currently workin the streets of the UK.. http://vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1056 cheers dan |
#2
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niiiiiiiiiiice work! you're one of the few people who seem to actually do something about the big hole in the package tray, too. or at least you're one of the few people who mention it.
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1979 'vert w/944 NA brakes + Boxster S wheels and begging for a paint job and a Subie swap |
#3
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Hi
Nice work. I'm surprised that you needed to use the BMW nostrils for cooling. Did you use a A/C front apron? Local (in Australian heat) WRX powered bugs get away with just an opening below the front bumper. I had a 1302 with a Turbo 2.1 WBX and only used the A/C front apron for cooling inlet with no overheating issues, Im now building a STI powerd 1303 and I will use the same front apron. Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#4
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hey..
yeh the BMW nostrils were not completely necessary and i could have simply fabricated/welded closed unit shrouding underneath through the valence.. i have however created grill on thefront valence but stopped at welding fabrication of shrouding due to position of my two radiators and deemed it would be more efficient and less work to use the grills.. wanted some direct airflow straight to the main rad also and this seemed the most subtle way of doing it whilst incorporating black slick kidney grills.. there was no way i was simply gonna cut shapes into the bonnet i wanted it too look right.. i have seen your website steve and am impressed with your STI efforts.. i am getting a touch of clutch slip on mine and originally i thought it was the pressure plate but i do have a clamp force rating of 6500 NM so can you suggest anything else that could be causing this slippage in you rexperience? dan |
#5
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#6
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the engine i use is a reconditioned Subaru legacy turbo with 198bhp as standard.. i am using what is known as a VOS chip which is added to the ECU which offers a predicted increase in power of 40bhp so all in 240bhp.. . i believe VOS chip basically ups the boost and therefore the power.. current boost is about 16 psi but havent tested fully yet..
yes its amzing fun to drive with legendary oversteer and you also benefit from decent fuel economy for the power.. to make it worth while you have to have it planned out properly and understand exactly all that it takes as its not easy by any means!! if you know your doing and you have all the parts on hand you could do this conversion within 10 working days.. |
#7
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very nice conversion, what width rear tires are you using and is it easy to put the power to the ground or does it wheely easily or burn out?
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#8
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Hi
I have a stage 4 Kennedy 200mm clutch for my car to fit a type 1 flywheel, but I'm playing around with fitting a Porsche pressure plate to the WRX flywheel, the WRX flywheel wont fit in the G50 bell housing, but I think its doable if I turn down the outside of the WRX flywheel. I'm concentrating on getting my bodywork finished, then I can send the shell away for painting, then I can pull the motor again and do some measuring up. The WRX and Porsche both use a 240 mm clutch. Cook VW, unfortunately I never got my WBX fully sorted, I broke my Quaife diff and then broke the car up sold lots of bits, the one time I raced it I stuffed up the waste gate adjustment just prior and it only did a 14.1 @ 96 mph, car was capable of better times but thats when I sold it off. Driving it on the street was blast, wasting other quick street cars at the lights etc Not knocking the WBX but I feel if you can get over not having a VW motor in your car a WRX is a better proposition. Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#9
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9 inch rears it will wheely and burn out if you dont use progreesive power and just dump the clutch..
steve C.. i am surrently using a 210mm clutch with a pressure plate that offers 0.92 pounds per square inch and have a feeling this might be insufficient.. either that or i have a slight oil leak in the system that is causing the slip..!!?!? but i may convert to a kennedy clutch set up or maybe a solid centre clutch disc.. to be confirmed.. |
#10
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From personal experience, I would not go with a solid centre clutch.
I had one (6 plates) on my EJ20TT with a stage 2 kennedy pressure plate and pulled the clutch after only a few days of driving it. IMO solid clutch's are only good on a track or dragstrip |
#11
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as research also has led me to concur tom thanks for the info.. so what would you do chaps then chaps who have already done this?
presumably i have to stick to my 210mm set up as the flywheel etc are all lined into this and i dont have the money to blast £400 on a whole new set up.. so what would you recommend changing and what would you change it to reinforce my existing 210mm ... can i just get a stronger disc or change the pressure plate or would this make it incompatible with the 210mm flywheel?!?!? to be honest clutch set up is not my knowledge so your help woul dbe appreciated.. cheers dan |
#12
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I really think your problem is elsewhere unless it's a faulty clutch in which case it is a case of returning it.
TSR have told you that they are using the same spec clutch with similar power with no problems. Have you checked for oil contamination in there yet? A solid disc is not a cure for your problems... Rich
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http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#13
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it's a wild gues, but hve you slightly sanded the surface of your ressure plate?
When it's new, it has a thin film on it to revent corrosion and when you install it like that it will slip (but for how long I have no idea). |
#14
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i havent checked for oil contamination inside yet but no signs of oil seeping to outside of clutch.. that is the next test when i open her up..
Ricola - its interesting wot Tom 72' is saying here wot do you reckon? nobody else on the vwkd forum has mentioned this before? |
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