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#1
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Where I'm at so far...
A few pics of the 1303 pan and stuff
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#2
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Mo' pics...
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#3
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looking good yeti
btw, what are those stabilizer bars that you welded on the the lower control arms?
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WinterJam 2010: Vdub, Surf, Skate & Musis Fest WinterJam 2010 'I drive way to fast to worry about cholesterol!' '67 Sunroof Notchback * '68 FI Squareback |
#4
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They're diagonal links with heim joints at the upper ends. They keep the horizontal control arms from having to rely on the sway bar to control caster, like a radius arm would.
They are only tacked on in the pics. I've made the pieces to box the whole arms in with, top and bottom. I'll weld them at work tomorrow.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#5
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Sure could have saved a bunch of time welding that 911 front end I have in place.
Looks good Joe, gonna have to come and see it soon.
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John Helgesen - www.stahlwerks.com 63 356b time capsule 911 track car, getting a cage now 948 project |
#6
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Quote:
The extra control arms with heim joints look a lot like a set-up I saw many years ago on a german Kaefercup car.. Looks very good! Walter PS: Jurgen, did you ever come to informing about shipping costs of the 912E tach we talked about? |
#7
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Pics of my strut tower brace, and Kafer Cup brace pieces. Still haven't finished the bars for the cup brace, and still waiting for some 6" M12 bolts from McMaster to finish the tops of the rear shock towers.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#8
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couple mo' pics...
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#9
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yeti, what are you doing for bumpstops on the rear? i still have yet to do anything and need to. much more difficult with the body on though.
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zen '73 2316 TIV GL Standard Bug (quasi) Company Branding, Graphic Design, and Web Services at DigiVinci Design |
#10
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Since I got early alloy arms, I made some from the leftovers of my sawed-off shorter front bumpstops.
Drilled a 1/4 inch hole 1/2 inch deep, tapped it to M8 1.25, stuffed the leftover washers from some stock 944 inner rear control arm bushings into those little rubber acordians, and bolted 'em down. I know you have later alloy arms on yours, so the pedistal isn't there. Is there some way you could adapt swingaxle bumpstops to work on yours?
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 Last edited by yetibone; May 31st 2005 at 18:29. |
#11
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The pan is done. I put the engine back on for some pics, and realized the drivetrain will need to tilt back an inch, or less to be right. I'll have to do that with the body on to find out exactly how far though...
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#12
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Schweeeeeet. A seeat and some controlls and it will be ready to put on the Dyno in Nov. :agree:
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#13
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Here's the rear swaybar. Had to use one that was long enough to clear the crossmember, and make my own brackets, and clamps. The endlinks are like the front ones.
I have to do some clearance work at the endlinks before it's ready to go.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#14
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Here's my home made Kafer Cup brace.
The tubes are hollow T6 aluminum, except for the ends, which were solid T6 'till I turned them down to the tubing's inner diameter, and drilled and tapped them for the fork ends on a lathe. All the chassis connections, the fork ends, and the shock tower pieces are steel. The front brace was made the same way, but it's all aluminum, 'cept the fork ends.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#15
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That chassis looks totally sick. It'll be a blast on the track when it's done.
And I'm taking notes. I'd like to do a super next time around if I can't find a good T3.
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72 Standard- 1600 stocker..for now It's YELLOW Rolling on a daily basis. VKG |
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