Distributor issues...I think

[beesquad711]

Last week I pulled my engine apart and replaced all of the seals along with the garbage pushrod tubes that were on it to try and oil-proof the blasted thing. When I went to put it back in I came upon something of a problem...it won't start. It turns over but there's no spark. I traced the problem to the distributor. Using a volt meter I found 12.4 vdc coming out of the coil (big black wire to distributor cap). The problem is that there is no juice getting to the spark plugs. The thing that doesn't make sense to me is the fact that it ran like a champ til the day I pulled it (except for the oil of course). I tried everything I could think of: checked a wiring diagram, adjusted the points, adjusted the timing, cleaned ALL of the contacts...I even tried a completely different distributor from a car my dad just bought. Nothing. I'm sure it is something simple like a wire in the wrong spot or something like that but I can't figure it out. I took the weekend off to clear my mind but I'm gonna jump back on it tonight but I was hoping I could get some direction before I wasted more of my time.

On a side note...I put on disc brakes and the calipers hit my wheels in a big way. I guess I have to get some tries mounted on the EMPI 8-spokes I have out back. Even then I'll still have to take the tiniest bit of material off the calipers. That bites. I better get back to work before I start to hate my car again...

[NO_H2O]

Double check the connections on the coil. You should have 12vdc to the + side of the coil and the trigger wire from the points/condenser to the - side of the coil. If it was reversed and you turned on the key the coil may be toast.
Also check the static timming and double check the firing order. turn the engine to top dead center and pull the valve cover(rt. side) and make sure both valves for #1 cyl. are closed. Then line the rotor(in the dist) up with the #1 plug wire in the cap twist the distributor body untill the points open and the rotor is still lined up. Snug down the dist. clamp and start the car. Warm it up and set the timing with a timing light to 28 deg at full advace (@3000 rpm).

[beesquad711]

Well I did have it hooked up backwards the first time we tried to fire it. Is there any way to test the coil to see if it is trashed or not? Just to add a new twist of weirdness I also tried the coil off my dad's car with similar results (no spark). The static timing is right on but at this point the timing isn't a huge issue since we have no spark at all. Even if it was out of time we should still be getting juice through the wires...just not at the right time.

[NO_H2O]

Try a new Condenser. It may not be any good and it will not trigger the coil if it is bad(open). I would not try to measure the voltage from the plug wires, you meter will not like it. The coil output should be 30,000 to 40,000 volts and it will destroy your meter. You can hook your timming light up and see if it strobes to check for spark. or see if you get a spark jump to ground at the end of the coil wire(it should be a nice blue spark, if it is week and orange the coil it week).

[beesquad711]

Originally Posted by NO_H2O

I would not try to measure the voltage from the plug wires, you meter will not like it. The coil output should be 30,000 to 40,000 volts and it will destroy your meter.

I would never <GASP>. I checked it the old fashioned way...stick a screw driver in the plug wire and see if it arcs to the header. Works like a charm...well at least if there's spark it does. I'll give the condenser a shot. Thanks a ton.

[beesquad711]

Well I tried two different coils (see "huge box of parts that comes with the car") and a different distributor in various combinations....nothing. I double checked everything to make sure it was all as it should be but I must still be missing something. I had a painful recollection of a previous electrical disiaster so I double and triple checked the fuses...again, still nothing. Just to recap, here's the "state of the baja address":

12vdc into the coil, 0vdc out of the distributor (I'm tempted to put my tongue on the plug just because I can ). The car ran about a week ago so I have a hard time understanding how and when something would have broken unless it was something like juice running the wrong way through the coil (as noh2o mentioned....which I'm pretty sure happenned at some point). Rotor is good, points are good, timing *should* be good, etc.

In other news, I get the aforementioned 8-spoke wheels back tomorrow with a bright shiny set of tires on them...it's amazing what $300 can do for a problem like that. I'm gonna be very angry if I get tires before I fix my spark problem...then I wouldn't have any excuse to complain to the wonderful folks at Wheel Works, and that would be a shame.