Carb syncronizing

[njv]

hi
chances are you could be just fine reusing the gaskets that are on allready they dont generally tear at all if your nice and carefull on disassembly . cleanliness during is essential give them a good wash of evwn before you take them off the motor they might look nice clean and new but they will be covered in little bits of grit grit kills carbs.

best of luck.

[oldyeler]

Thanks NJV your help is appreciated. The carb cleaner and air compresser are standing by.
I do need to get up with Jake next Wednesday before the complete jet kit arrives.
I am hoping he can tell me which jets are correct for the M T-4 2056cc.C engine.
But what I am afraid of is that could vari from engine to engine.
Hope not

[yetibone]

The jetting will vary from engine to engine, but if Jake knows how the motor is built, I'm sure he can tell you how to jet it. Altitude, cam profile, compression, port diameter, and exhaust diameter, and length will play into how your carbs should be set up.

I've always used the "trial and error" method. Once I think I've found stoiciometric, I drive a couple of miles and check the spark plugs to make sure I'm not running too rich, or too lean.

It took me a total of 8 hours to get the DHLA's dialed in on my TR6 because they came off of Alfa Romeo engines, and I couldn't find any info on how to jet Dellorto's on a six cylinder Triumph.

Keep trying, you'll get it right!


Yetibone

[oldyeler]

That opens a hole new can off worms.

I designed and built the exchangers & muffler, and the muffler restriction can be adjusted by adding restrictor veins in 3 different locations inside the muffler in a combination of ways

OH BOY!

I have drawings and a few pics in my web space ,The systen is intended to work as a T-4, to T-1 application replacement I wanted it to be a universial setup for T-1s ,T-2 s & T-3s

The muffler is made like a 3 chamber flowmaster with low restriction thoughout. That way , Jake can use it on BIGGER engines in all his applicactions or even a stock T-4.

At least that's what I intended.

[oldyeler]

OK found no blockages. In the webers

primary jets are- 125

idlejets are- 55

pump jet is -40

float level is-10/32.5

These are Idf 40 spec,s when I compared mine to the weber chart
I was suposed to get Idf 44s Thats what I ordered as I recall

Is there a way to check the carb size? between 40s and 44s
I will take some venturi measurements

I have found out that 40s would probley be a better size fit and be more driveable. But which jets would be correct

It,s time for Jake to chime in If would The UPS truck just pulled up ,the jet pacs have arrived

Please understand That Jake DID NOT build this engine.

I do not hold him responcible. in any way It was built up to a long block by John Helgerson and the rest is my effort. the parts I think are to Jakes spec.s by Mr Helgerson.

It is suposed to be the same as the M-4 2056 C

[yetibone]

Hmmmm.....

Measure the diameter of the throttle plates. either 40mm or 44mm

The carb bodies should say wether they are IDF40 or IDF44.

Yetibone

[njv]

hi
no way should that engine run on anything smaller than a 135 main on the 125 you are too lean get it out!

go to aircooled net read the excellent diatribe for weber carbs set your floats as instructed by it do not not do it this is criticle to set spot on as per johns write up.

then re sync the carbs print it out do not step past any part be methodical if for some point you get stressed then walk away leave it while you have a brew or someething .

have a notebook and take notes make sure you write down what you fit to the carb test drive take notes these may help later take your time and enjoy your hobby.

[jhelgesen]

Yes, should be stamped in little letters on the base flange of the carbs "XXX IDF"

I'm pretty sure the stock venturi for a 40 idf is 28mm.

[oldyeler]

OK! first off No Taggs or Ins. I feel its not proven its self to me enough for that as yeat. Plus I still have the top and some paint work to do. this being a converted speedster means it will be a total custom top job.
I already have enought paint stocks and happis t 20 yr top material to finish it, but even if its roll backed to the top shop they still will wish to drive it in and out of their shop and storage area. it will take at least a week
My Inspiration Pic Is Just that Inspiration , I want the body in a clean shop before the touch ups, the clear coat is layed ,and buffed.
Engine work is a invitation for nicks and scratches. The car is not to be finished untill the engine makes the grade.

I found the Idf 44 marks , so yes they are 44s.

I did not see a veturi numbers anywhere, where should they be and the pump horn nossles are 4C but it revs fine. Just idles like crap still. I just came in from the shop and got it back together
The more it ran the worse it got ,but you could pull a rev and it straigten out then start back to act as if it was missing again. 6 mins I shut it down. Why do I suspect foul play in Conlleyville at the Air Cooled Net Parts?
I am next going to change the idle jets to (60) and primary jets to (150 ) or up to170 that Id have to order 155s 160s 165s and 170s all 4 sets will run about $50.oo it would be nice to here from a 2056 Mass4 C owner as to which main jets are Installed

The kit has main Jets 130s 140s, 145s 150,
air jets170s 180s 185s 190 I DID NOT SEE WHERE THESE GO
idle jets 55 60 65 70
pump jets 55
pump bypass zero bypass 702

After I posted my last post I went back and cleaned the floats and filter bowls, before reassembling the carbs
I found rust,but not much The fuel line must have had some rust in it
I flushed the lines two times and it was clean both quarts
The weber chart for a idf 44 50/51 givies
mains jets as 170
idle jets 60
main venturi 32 on 40s or 36 on 44? But if I mine has 40 jets
Who want s to guess which venturi
pump jets 55
The Idf 44 38/39 is the same except for 50 idle jets and 50 pump bleeds .That cant be right, can it?

It begining to look like someone wants me to lean blow a engine and thats not gonna happen

[factman]

just to make sure you have covered eveything have you checked to see if your idle jets are clogged. my engine did that too when it had clogged idle jets

[oldyeler]

I swapped them out with new,of same size and checked and cleaned the old ones and put them back in the box . I saw no trash of any kind except in one filter bowel. But I wiil check them again.

[factman]

the easy solution is to buy the A/F kit from john and then you can find out exactly where it is lean or rich. one test you can do is take starter fluid and spray down the intakes and anywhere you think a leak could be. if the engine revs up then you have a leak, if not, you probably dont. a good rule of thumb is to get your idle mixture screw where they are about 1-1 1/2 turns out. if they are like 1/2 turn ou then you might use the next bigger idle jet. if over 2 turns out then use a smaller idle jet. then once it can idle good within that perameter then go drive it and floor it when it comes off the idle circuit(around 3000 rpms) see what the engine does. if it blows smoke its rich. if it really losses power then it might be lean. but yes all engines are different. my 2.4 T4 runs on 50 idle 135 main 200 air. haven't messed with pump jet and all that other stuff. it feels good so i leave it alone. by the way, your airs are in the same stack as your mains. they are the top ones that the stack holder slips over. i have to go so i can't explain more but hope that helps.

SAM

[oldyeler]

I have a friend droppin in the weekend with a portable O-2 setup If any what other jets would you get ? I,ll have them overnited.


Weber said I got all I need as far as Jets .Thats good Erne dropped by today.

And we pulled this turkey. not gonna waist any more time with it now , Push has come to shuve ,and the to the next question

NO!!!!

Low compresson on 1&2