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  #1  
Old December 18th 2005, 09:16
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Astromic Astromic is offline
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Turbocharged...

hey guys,
is there anyone know any article or site contains a detailed turbo installation(beside vwtrends) for the beetle, cuz i'm stuck in the middle now and have problems above my knowledge,,,...
my fuel pump, i will remover it from it's location to fit the oil support to the turbo, so i will go for a electrical one, what i should consider when i buy one, and how can i adjust it to feed the system propably,...
and i have 2 options in the turbo fiting, the draw-through and the blow-through, witch one is better, and what is the adv. and disadv. of both...
plz guy support me with infos or links, i know my question is alot but ur experts and u really know what ur talking about...
thank's...
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  #2  
Old December 18th 2005, 23:40
Jeza Jeza is offline
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Have a good hunt around the shoptalkforums, here http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewfo...8291899422a8e5

Probably loads of answers to your questions.

Are you thinking carby turbo or EFI?

And also lots of interesting info here http://lowbugget.com/1600t.html
and check out http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/enginebasics.htm

Good luck
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  #3  
Old December 19th 2005, 08:38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeza
Are you thinking carby turbo or EFI?
carby, i think i will get a weber 40 for the job, and i just heared that the draw-through type is more reliable in our engines(carberated aircooled), just need an electric pump(i will get it from any car)...
but i have a very important question, i think we should all know before adding a forced induction system to our weak aluminium engine, what is our boost limit that the engine could handle, i guess not much, my engine's compression ratio for example is 7.30:1 (1300cc, F) when in good condition, so how much the safe ration i could add to it with the turbo????????
deos anybody know????????
thank's man for replying...
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  #4  
Old December 20th 2005, 20:57
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
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If you plan on doing a carburated turbo motor go for the blow through. It might cost a bit more (modify the carbs), but i believe its a lot safer and more effective, since you dont have the air/fuel mixture going into the turbo which gets extremely hot...

Personally for my next motor im planning on big cc's and a turbo with efi...

Chris
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  #5  
Old December 21st 2005, 11:00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beetle1303
If you plan on doing a carburated turbo motor go for the blow through. It might cost a bit more (modify the carbs), but i believe its a lot safer and more effective, since you dont have the air/fuel mixture going into the turbo which gets extremely hot...

Personally for my next motor im planning on big cc's and a turbo with efi...

Chris
u r right man, i heared too that the blow-through is more efective, but why is the most aircooled engines contains a draw-through turbos???, and if u suggest a blow, is it safe to my engine and what mod in the carb. i should do(details plz), plz tell me what to do, cuz i need a safe install for a daily rider and a as i said before that i want this to be as a project, i mean more power with resonable mpg for daily riding...plz guys i need ur help as i should ask u experts here...
god bless,
thank's...
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  #6  
Old December 21st 2005, 18:42
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73notch 73notch is offline
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keep it simple and do a drawthough. if u want the benefits of blow through, go all the way and do EFI.
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  #7  
Old December 28th 2005, 11:24
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
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carb modifications are : different gaskets and different o-rings at the butterfly shafts in order to handle the pressure. appart from that you should get some bigger jets for your carbs to match the required fuel levels when under boost (otherwise your engine will run lean and start detonating...).

if i remeber correctly the carb turbo kit is available from cb performance.

Also look for a small turbo (small>nil lag thus better drivability for a daily driver) with an integrated wastegate (most OEM applications> easier to find and cheaper) and a seperate blow-off valve (that will protect your carbs and your engine from excecive boost pressures)


Chris
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  #8  
Old December 28th 2005, 15:27
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really thank's guys for this info,...
i found that i have to buy an electric fuel pump with a regulator, and fit the oil supply hose in the place of the pump, but my question is what pressure should i set the regulator to work with me...
thank's...
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  #9  
Old December 29th 2005, 11:02
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
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Interesting question and actually i dont have a clue...

One way to find out is to calulate how much fuel your jets can flow, along with the fuel requirement under boost and then find out the needed fuel pressure... If i remeber correctly weber 40 work at 2.5-3.0 bar in NA mode, so i wouldnt be impressed if your engine will require something like 6-7 bar (do not take it for granted plz and make your calcs or ask someone that has done it before or sells kits).

Chris
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Old January 5th 2006, 19:55
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so is there any recommended regulator type, or any will do the work????
i mean is there any type have the desired adjustin-range u should recommend me by????
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  #11  
Old January 6th 2006, 09:53
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
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Cb Performance has a few pressure regulators... http://www.cbperformance.com

also check Holley
http://www.holley.com/data/Catalogs/Fuel%20Pumps.pdf

Its a very interesting article along with the fuel pump catalog

Chris
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  #12  
Old January 6th 2006, 19:27
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thank's guys, really thank's Chris, u really helped me alot improving my ideas...
i'll keep u informed with any further steps...
Michael...
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  #13  
Old January 6th 2006, 19:35
Supa Ninja Supa Ninja is offline
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So your turboing a 1300? You'll want forged pistons, and by the way it's a magnesium alloy case which is even weaker then a aluminum case. You won't be able to get too much boost out of stock motor unless you go through it. After everything is said and done you would be better off with a built NA type 1 motor.
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  #14  
Old January 6th 2006, 19:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supa Ninja
So your turboing a 1300? You'll want forged pistons, and by the way it's a magnesium alloy case which is even weaker then a aluminum case. You won't be able to get too much boost out of stock motor unless you go through it. After everything is said and done you would be better off with a built NA type 1 motor.
i'm not a specialist but the manual said that the 1300(44hp) code "F" engines has alumanium cases and the pistons is the same material as the 1500 engines, it's called a "steel strut alumanium alloy", i don't know this material is good or week but anyway i will never exceeds the 4 psi of boost(maybe less) and if my engine will give a gain of 30hp more or even less, i will be glad for that, cuz it's a daily driver after all ;-) , my other project is to buy a 1600cc engine(i don't like large disp. cuz i think more power from small disp. is the real performance) on my other 71 bug(need a full restoration) and installs a bigger boost range with forged pistons and c/w crank and everything it takes when i got some money in spare(i wish)....
but now my idea is to build a "street car" with minor modifications producing the best power it could safely gives, i took it as a chalenge ;-)...
thank's...
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  #15  
Old January 6th 2006, 22:17
Supa Ninja Supa Ninja is offline
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Fabbing a turbo setup will cost more then buying a good used 1600. I have built a couple of 1641 screamers, but there is no replacement for displacement.
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