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  #16  
Old January 9th 2006, 11:51
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Astromic Astromic is offline
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hey guys,
how about a blow-thru with an actuator that will sense the on-boost(+) only and do the fuel change...

Michael
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  #17  
Old January 9th 2006, 15:16
Jeza Jeza is offline
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Turbo a 1300 eh... cool!

Have a read here
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/v....php?tid=46399

Similar thing, with some good recommendations.

"no replacement for displacement" Thats a very old skool, simplistic way of looking at things. Sure turbo charging things by the book would cost more than building a budget 1641, but if it was done by the book it would probably blow the 1641 away!

A fellow by the name of Ian Swinkles built a turbo 1641 that put out 165hp.
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/index.htm

Good luck, and have fun
Cheers
Jeremy
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  #18  
Old January 9th 2006, 21:43
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Astromic Astromic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeza
but if it was done by the book it would probably blow the 1641 away!
blow is away too difficult for me as my car is carburated and it need huge modifications that i will never find someone here in egypt could help me building it and fine-tune it the way it should.
someone was talking with me about building my own "actuator"(that will sense the on-boost(+) only and do the fuel change), so i'm intrested in this part now, any ideas??????????
as u adviced me guys all this setup will be in my new 1600(AS) rebuild engine,, and i will just add some mild-jump parts in my old 1300 like a 1.25 rockers with dual spring set and choromly push rods, 1.5" exhaust 4in1 header, single weber(40 or 32/36 progressive) and maybe an ignitor2 points with a msd6 cdi(when i got more extra money), i've been told that all this parts together will add about 35% of my stock 40HP...
thanks

Michael
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  #19  
Old January 29th 2006, 22:24
1500SBR 1500SBR is offline
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Astromic.

Maybe I can help you, dont know it its too late. We have a lot of experience with turbos in Brazil.

Let me just tell you what I think and learned through the years.

Blow through - forget the other way, people used draw systems in the past because of fuel starvation, not a problem with todays pumps/regulators.

The modifications you need on a Weber 40 are minimal, and include the use of a larger float needle (300 or 3mm is needed for roughly 300hp on gasoline) and the elimination of the manual accelerator (you remove the whole system and block it off with a little aluminum plate) that's it.

You will need a pressure dependant fuel regulator (one that will rise fuel pressure along with the rise in boost).

You need low CR (I would keep it at 7, or closest to that) and maximum total advance of 24 degrees (depending on the amount of heat you get where you live).

As for the pump, you need a high pressure pump (say 45psi minimum) or in other words a fuel injection pump that flows about 3 or 4 liters per minute.

Maximum boost depends on the engine you have as well as the size of turbo (compressor housing and wheel) but on a small turbo in a stock engine for starters, you would probably be safe to about 15 psi, everything being correct maybe 20 or 25 (we've ran 30 psi on a stock alcohol fed 1600 with dual 44, good for 300whp!!).

Rule of thumb, up to 5 psi even if everything is wrong you are still safe, 10psi is very forgiving, highr boost pressure is when you really start to need to know what you are doing not to start loosing pieces (again this is depending on turbo size since 5psi of boost from a 62mm wheel on a .70A/R compressor is a lot more air than a 42mm wheel on a .42A/R compressor running the same 5psi).

Anyhow, if I can help you further, let me know, I'll walk you through the carb/pump/regulator setup if you wish.

Best regards to all.
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  #20  
Old March 7th 2006, 13:55
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Astromic Astromic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1500SBR
Astromic.

Maybe I can help you, dont know it its too late. We have a lot of experience with turbos in Brazil.

Let me just tell you what I think and learned through the years.

Blow through - forget the other way, people used draw systems in the past because of fuel starvation, not a problem with todays pumps/regulators.

The modifications you need on a Weber 40 are minimal, and include the use of a larger float needle (300 or 3mm is needed for roughly 300hp on gasoline) and the elimination of the manual accelerator (you remove the whole system and block it off with a little aluminum plate) that's it.

You will need a pressure dependant fuel regulator (one that will rise fuel pressure along with the rise in boost).

You need low CR (I would keep it at 7, or closest to that) and maximum total advance of 24 degrees (depending on the amount of heat you get where you live).

As for the pump, you need a high pressure pump (say 45psi minimum) or in other words a fuel injection pump that flows about 3 or 4 liters per minute.

Maximum boost depends on the engine you have as well as the size of turbo (compressor housing and wheel) but on a small turbo in a stock engine for starters, you would probably be safe to about 15 psi, everything being correct maybe 20 or 25 (we've ran 30 psi on a stock alcohol fed 1600 with dual 44, good for 300whp!!).

Rule of thumb, up to 5 psi even if everything is wrong you are still safe, 10psi is very forgiving, highr boost pressure is when you really start to need to know what you are doing not to start loosing pieces (again this is depending on turbo size since 5psi of boost from a 62mm wheel on a .70A/R compressor is a lot more air than a 42mm wheel on a .42A/R compressor running the same 5psi).

Anyhow, if I can help you further, let me know, I'll walk you through the carb/pump/regulator setup if you wish.

Best regards to all.
thank's a lot for ur advice, and sorry for the late reply; as i was v-busy at work, then had a good time researching the blow-thru setup...
as u said i'm flattered about this system reliabilty and drivability as well as it's fuel economy, safety on a fine-tuned engine and it's longevity...
i found that cbperformance.com sells a "big-pocket" efi complete system contains everything i need from headers to injectors, it's a plug-simpletune-play good system, but as a i said it's a money issue(costs almost 3,000$$), and it will cost me around 18,000LE in local currency(shipping is more because the ppl who works in customs and post offices here will never know what the turbo is and consider it as an "essential main part" and the fees could go up to 300%, and maybe they will consider it as illigal part), so my second best option is to travel and make the deal and come with the kit in my bags ...
any way i'll do more research on building my own blow-thru system, i think a header is easy and the turbo i could take it from a volvo T3 and rebuild it with new seals, convert to efi w/ center-mounted throttle body and 2 injectors or 4 in a 2 thr bodies, a simple ecu to manage all and a good 009 with 22-25 degrees max advance, a map sensor, a used bov or import it from outside,,,
the case will need drilling for full-flow filter and cooler feeding the compressor too or buy this simple in-out oil pump feeding the oil pass from filter to turbo housing w/o drills,...
i could add a forged pistons/barrels kit in the engine rebuild before that, but i'm still researching on the air/fuel - advance curve and looking on a easy to program ecu to handle the job,,,
i still researching and i need a good book explaining the details, do u know any recommended book wich could help?????
thnx...
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  #21  
Old March 14th 2006, 10:01
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Astromic Astromic is offline
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come on pros, there must be someone knows te answer,,,
please, i'm in middle of planning :-(

Michael
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  #22  
Old March 18th 2006, 00:16
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volksdragon volksdragon is offline
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here's another good question
i have a k03 and a k26 which would be better for a low boost 1600 draw setup.

i've heard k26 but i would think the smaller k03 would be better suited to a stock 1600.
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  #23  
Old February 3rd 2007, 02:57
krems krems is offline
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1500sbr


what did you say brazilians use for EFI again?

fuel tech i think?


any more details on it?
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  #24  
Old February 26th 2007, 05:13
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DrFrankenstyle DrFrankenstyle is offline
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I've heard good stuff about a book called Turbomania (http://www.bevenyoung.com.au/prdt1576.htm ), it's a few years old but it seems to a good source of info on turbocharging the VW engine.

Cheers Daniel
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  #25  
Old February 27th 2007, 08:57
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
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imo the best books on engine tuning are Haynes':

1. Four-Stroke Performance Tuning (ISBN 1 85960 435 8)
and
2. Forced Induction Performance Tuning (ISBN 1 85960 691 1)

Both are written by A. Graham Bell.

IMO read the 1st on first, cos it explains in great detail every aspect of a 4 stroke tuned engine, and i believe the 2nd one is like an expansion of the 1st...

1st covers
Cyl heads, Carburation, EFI, Exhausts, Cams& Valve train, Cranks (the whole Bottom end package), Ignition, Lubrication and Cooling and Power Measurement and Tuning

2nd covers
the first 4 chapters are on the history of forced induction, FI principles, turbocharger Knowledge, boost control, anti lag, Blowers and the same chapters, Charge air cooling, Fuel systems, Nitrous Oxide systems, exhaust systems, combustion/ Ignition management, Lubrication, Cooling, and about 5-6 more chapters...

Hope that helps

Chris
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