View Full Version : European Motorworks
vujade
May 24th 2003, 16:18
Who has bought from them or had machine work done by them?
How was the customer service?
Quality of parts?
guest
June 4th 2003, 17:08
vujade,
I'm having machining done there now. Some of it gets sent to Rimco. Otherwise, I'm neither impressed or disgusted. I'd just send everything to Rimco directly. Just my .0002
Ephry73
June 6th 2003, 13:17
Hey Joe, it's Ephraim. I got a package from you. Please email me @ Ephry73@aol.com..... I won't (and haven't been) check my email at work until next monday(June 9th)
Ephry
cnavarro
June 6th 2003, 22:29
We've purchased his 96mm KB pistons before for use with Biral Babies (back when they were available and in stock). We haven't heard any bad things whatsoever about their quality nor do we have any complaints about the service we received from E.M.
Take care,
Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
effvee
June 9th 2003, 01:48
Hi I really don't know if motorworks is at fault, but they did my case. I had them line bore and it came out .020 . I'm using a 30mm oil pump and it just pukes oil from the crank. I then insatlled a sand seal trying to get it to stop, but when I do 80mph to 85mph, when I get to work about 55 miles away it oil everywhere. when I raise the deck lid oil just pour from the rim of the deck lid. What's the real pisser is I've put some 2600$ into the engine. Like I said I don't know if its there work but what can make the crank area leak like that, and yes its a type I and the slinger is in the correct position.
Ron Roberts
June 9th 2003, 10:18
I don't know so I'm just asking. If an align bore is .020 over, Don't you need to use a fatter crank, or thicker bearings or something to make up the difference?
Thanks
Ron
DORIGTT
June 9th 2003, 15:19
Is it possible that the reason you're getting so much oil out of your engine is because of excessive blow-by?
How many miles are on your engine?
Have you done an oil pressure check to see if your pressure is fine?
Let me know, I'd love to hear what happens with that.
Racelook
June 9th 2003, 18:26
My brother, he's more auto-technic than I, said that that can mean that there is underpressure in your cilinder...... Or something like that
grts. Wiebrand
effvee
June 13th 2003, 13:19
Goodmorning, my engine is now about three months old. I used a total seal for the second ring. my valve covers are venYed. I even now run a quart low on the dip stick, but I do have a 1.5 sump. It's not the oil pump contact or cover. I'm starting to feel like there may be something wrong with the crank, such as not true or bent. The crank is a new Scat forge 84mm. I did not have the engine balanced, but that would lesson lonjevity, not cause this type of oil puking problem at least I think so. For a small time at work I used a dyno to inspect under load, but the dyno is for large vehicles and my tire contact under higher rpm's tend to climb out of the dyno. And since the dyno is a type where you don't tie down the vehicle, it can't be used for my leak under load inspection. Guys I'm not burning oil but dripping it very where. It leaves trail on the fenders. This weekend I'm going to insatll a Oberg filter in hopes of getting it to stop. Some say I should use the Berg oil pressure releif cover, but I want the higher pressure to go to the filter and remote cooler and then into the engine where it will be regulated by the check valves as should be (at least I think) So if I may ask, please keep thinking about this, because it my only driver and I've just sold my condo and have no place to work on the engine such as removing it, tearing it down and having a mechine shop inspect. DAMN!
chigger
June 15th 2003, 11:57
I had a similar problem. The stock pulley has no seal just grooves which push the oil back into the engine. When I went to an aftermarket pulley it leaked bad. They require a seal to be installed in the block. I ended up going back to stock. Hope it helps.
effvee
June 21st 2003, 21:56
Hay chigger, what oil pump were you using, also I really fear it may be my front crank bearing clearence due to I recall when I was putting it together each time I would torque the front case around the cam area, the crank would get very hard to rotate.
I will be taking it totaly apart, and this time I'll take my time.
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