New starter problem

[oldyeler]

I now beleive the heads have been fly cut conciderbly. I haven't even got the carb problem solved and a friend and I have been looking things over I showed him the 1mm, shimms under the rockers and and the 911 tappit on the rockers and talked about hot engine commpression jump with decked heads,
What kind of starters are avaible for the T-4?
Remember I am runnig a automatic tranny that takes a different starter.
I could build a custom reduction drive starter But wanted to see whats avaible for the H.O. T-4s

Jake .what the heck are you useing on the bigger engines

[jhelgesen]

Okay, found the paper work I was looking for.

Heads are:

58cc's
42x36 valves

Rocker arm geometry all set to Jakes specs.

Uses 96mm kb pistons and 2.0 rods and crank.

Jake estimated 125hp at 8.5:1 compression, I think it ended up at 8.6:1.

If you want to see how it was assembled, get a copy of the #8 bug me video, thats what was used for instructions to build.

Hope that helps.

[oldyeler]

Hum I came up with 57 cc chambers as a Guessament , Thats pretty close, What' s your deck height spec. How much clearance did they allow for when the pistions top out in the cylinder. Im guessing .o30 th.
OH and By the way I bumped the distributer after
swapped it out for a photronic unit. THAT was my problem. but I may still get a CB PERFORMANCE reduction drive starter to cut the voltage drian on the electicial system. That will help on the cold mornings.
AND I wish to Apoligize to YOU ,because I was beging to think I got a LEMON, Please don,t forget to check with your friend about that T-3 gland nut they are nearly imposible to find I have decided to build a fallback engine, if I ever need to send this one off. I can still run the car.

[jhelgesen]

Have you got a starter bypass relay installed? Gets all your voltage to the starter with short wires.

I'll talk to Rodney tonight, he probably has the gland nut you need.

I'll dig through my notes, see if I can find what the deck height was.

[oldyeler]

No I did not add a hot start relay.
When I wired the car I upgraded all the harness to heavier guage wire The main battery cables and ground cables are also made from the heavest welding cable avalible way over the requirements.
I refuse to beleave I could have that kind of a voltage drop. But I do know how to check it.

[yetibone]

I think I have that gland nut on the 412 engine. If you need it, it's yours.



Yetibone

[oldyeler]

Drop me a email . and a quoat and I'll mail you a check with a return address I didn't know they put T-1s in 412s But if it is a gland nut and is thinner than a stock beetle? That's the scudder.

[jhelgesen]

There is no gland nut in the 412 that I know of. Joe, he's got a tranny out of t3 squareback. Now he may be interested in the tranny out of the 412, its an automatic.

[jhelgesen]

What size carbs did you get for the 2056? When I was going to put 40 idfs on it, Jake recomended 125 and 130 jets, with 32mm venturies.

[yetibone]

I think I was in a Type I frame of mind.
:stupid:
My bad!




enobiteY

[oldyeler]

Weber Idf 44s

have not dismantle them yeat pending a email to and from Jake.

I can only guess 155 mains and 52 air jets , I ordered a plethera of Jets from Weber to cover all the bases. But before I bump it up I am gonna cleam um and pop in some restrictor veins and see what happens first.

I supsect the back pressure is to low Im like John in the respect that 412 were t-4 cars. But remember germans do straaannngggge things . and so do a lotia other car companies.

From what I understand it the same tranny as a 412 and a bus just different geariing the t3 being the highest and the bus the lowest

[oldyeler]

Yetibone, don,t feel lonley.

Here lately I.ve been thinking I,d be better off if I had stayed in type one mode. and just in case , I have all ready bought up a few parts for a t-1 engine.

One reason I really want to see this T-4 through is it would make the car a complete 1970 model parts based car (1970-914), (1970- Squareback transmisson with oil cooler) & (1970 shortened beetle pan , front and rear disc brakes and sway bars) that happened by shear luck.
I turned the speedster into a drauz roadster. Holey hemeroids Batman, That one hurt,, (A LOT)
I used as many real 356 parts as I could get my hands on ,and sold all the new unneeded speedster parts.

[Dave_Darling]

Originally posted by oldyeler
No I did not add a hot start relay.
When I wired the car I upgraded all the harness to heavier guage wire The main battery cables and ground cables are also made from the heavest welding cable avalible way over the requirements.
I refuse to beleave I could have that kind of a voltage drop. But I do know how to check it.

The voltage drop you need to worry about is the drop from the battery to the ignition switch to the starter's smaller "flag" terminal. (Assuming your starter is similar to the stock 914 one.) The "hot start relay" goes in that line.

You can check voltage drops with a voltmeter. I think you want at least 9V at the flag terminal when you try to crank the starter? (Measured from there to battery ground post itself.)

There's a long and fairly detailed article on Pelican's website. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_starter_diag/mult_starter_diag.htm

--DD

[oldyeler]

Thanks a bunch Dave.
I will check it out very carefully with a ohm meter. I checked it out some this morning when I got home.
My igniton to park neutrial switch wire was fine its 10 gauge . reads 11.2.
When I step back out I'll check the from park neutrial to starter, . its also a 10 gauge wire. I need set her back onto the jack stands for that.
I hope it,s well over 9volts I'll let you know!

[oldyeler]

Also Dave . I would like to hear your feedback about the exhaust system. I have posted two more pics on my web space The link is in the Idea for a t-4 muffler post hear at GL.com. I don,t care if you hate it ,or like it, or whatever. see if you think I should risk losing a real good sounding muffler by tuckinig it up 1x1/2 higher under the car I Value your opion. You know what the real thing is supose to look like
I know it not a real one, But will it good enough, or should I go for broke.

[oldyeler]

Also Dave . I would like to hear your feedback about the exhaust system.
I have posted two more pics on my web space The link is in the Idea for a t-4 muffler post hear at GL.com.
I don,t care if you hate it ,or like it, or whatever.
Please see if you think I should risk losing a real good sounding muffler by tuckinig it up 1x1/2 higher under the car.
I value your opion. You know what the real thing is supose to look like.
I know it not a real one, But will itbe good enough, as is ? or should I go for broke.?

[oldyeler]

I checked the voltage at the starter three times an wiggled the selector three time while a neighbor checked the reading at the starter all this while holding the key switch. we got 10.8 every time.
One more thing I'm not sure if it makes any difference I am running a deep cycle gel cell battery. I am hoping ,that too helps the overall voltage?

[Dave_Darling]

10.8V should be enough to engage the solenoid... if there's a good ground connection as well. Go through the rest of that tech article and keep checking things as it suggests.

The gel cell battery should be just fine, as long as there's a charge in it. With 10+V at the starter, sounds like there's a charge in it!

--DD

[oldyeler]

Yelp ; after I corrected my sleepy headed mess up with the distributor it was fine. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP SIR!!!