180hp 1.8t in Bug [Archive] - GermanLook Forums

volkdent

August 10th 2004, 17:06

I'm going to use 1.5" round, 2" square, and 1 x 2" rectangular tubing. One of the major tie-ins to the stock chassis will be two 5/8" U bolts that will go around the torsion bar housing. Other points for pickup to the chassis will be frame rails I've fabricated that extend the length of the pan just below where all the bolts hold the body and pan together. This is 1x2" rectangular tubing with holes drilled into it to allow the use of Allen head bolts in the standard body/pan bolt locations. There will also be a crossbrace between the two frame rails that will be just about where the front of the stock rear seat extends. I'm going to mock the whole thing up in ABS plastic pipe, I'll take some pics then to get feedback from anyone who has a mind for this sort of thing.

Jason

volkdent

August 18th 2004, 01:32

Got a 3" GHL downpipe in. It will ned plenty of modification, but should work really well. There is actually a factory cutout in the middle of the rear apron that will work perfectly for this monster.

http://www.geocities.com/volkdent/Engine_In.html

volkdent

September 1st 2004, 01:24

Got my fuel pump kit from EIP Tuning today. Should work out really well. It's Bosch, and it looks like the one on my MkII! Also got a 1.8t expansion tank. It's amazing that I can get these parts at my door for much less than driving down to the dealership. Also making some serious progress on the design of the superstructure, thanks to Bob in Aussieland.

NYBugman1972

September 1st 2004, 13:41

Man, that is cool! :eek:

Did you get it out of a wrecked GLI, 337 or 20AE? They're the only ones I know of with the 1.8t and a 6-speed.

What are your plans for the exhaust? Any plans to mod the engine?

Looks like one heck of a project. Good luck with it :agree:

volkdent

September 1st 2004, 18:21

It's from a standard 2002 Jetta 1.8t. The tranny is 02A with a bolt kit, but I'll be upgrading to the 6 speed O2M you mentioned eventually. It will stay stock till all the kinks are worked out, then will slowly be built up to whatever feels comfortable, maybe in the 280-300hp range. As it sits, if I end up with an 1800lb car, with the stock motor this thing will do 0-60 under 5 seconds, so I'm not sure how much power will end up just being scary. I'm thinking APR Stage III setup, but we'll see. Exhaust will be a custom 3" based on a stainless GHL downpipe and cat. I'm thinking that 2 3" pipes sticking out of the stock location might be kind of sic.

Jason

yellow73

September 1st 2004, 21:17

Just when you think you have seen it all...this should be wicked and the weight distribution should be great too.

volkdent

October 4th 2004, 21:19

I've finally decided on a plan for the superstructure. It took many hours of head scratching, but I like it a lot. It will be composed of 2 major parts, one under the car, one inside the car, and then a roll cage and crossbraces will be bolted to it. AND I get to use my tubing bender, so that will be fun. I had a change of mind this weekend on the suspension. I decided awhile ago to go with the stock strut type setup, but was talking to KW Suspensions about building a shorty version so I wouldn't have to cut strut mounting holes through the inner fender well. It was a pain in the butt, so I decided just to go with the Variant III KWs and cut the hole. With the shorty version I was worried I wouldn't have enough travel, now I'll have plenty. So they are ordered up, got some of the high grade nuts I need, and soon I'll be warming up the MIG!

Jason

vdubvr6

October 4th 2004, 22:11

:eek: that **** is awsome!! we all need more pics of the progress man!! :bowdown: :cool:

volkdent

October 25th 2004, 00:56

Apparently I'll be recieving the complete engine harness this week. I was supposed have had it right from the get go, but getting these not-off-the-shelf parts from RPI has been a challenge. I did recieve all the grade 10.9 mounting bolt and nuts from Maryland Metric, some used half shafts I got for a song on Ebay, some tubing clamps for the superstructure, and the KW struts are supposed to show up in a couple of weeks.

volkdent

January 11th 2005, 23:31

Wiring harness STILL not here. They had started to pull apart one then realized it wasn't drive by wire, so they're searching again. I'm a long was away from starting it up anyway, so I'm not too worried. KWs arrived and they are as gorgeous as they say. They are in place now, but have yet to have the upper mounts fabbed. Not sure exactly how to do that. Currently I'm thinking of getting the ring piece of the top of a strut tower and welding it to plate. I had a thought about using the Mk II rear end strut plates, but I think they are smaller diameter. Double A-arm front end design is complete now too, so should be getting to work on that in a bit. New pics on my homepage.

Jason

volkdent

February 12th 2005, 00:41

I recieved the 3" widened fenders that'll fit the 235/45/17s on the H20 platform from Creative Car Craft. I've read a lot of peoples comments on their quality, and I was not disappointed. They are amazing, the quality is phenomenol, the finish was perfect, the strength and build quality was amazing. IF ANYONE IS IS CONSIDERING REPLACEMENT FENDERS, WIDENED OR NOT, PLEASE BE ASSURED THAT CREATIVE CAR CRAFT WILL DEFINATELY MAKE YOU HAPPY. They are lighter and stronger than the steel counterparts, and won't rust or get dented.

Jason

zen

February 12th 2005, 13:39

told you so. :D

congrats! get us some pics as you get them fitted.

volkdent

June 15th 2005, 20:31

Engine and tranny have met for the last time. Superstructure is complete. Working in getting (you are not going to believe this) the wiring harness STILL, getting the details squared away for the front engine mount(this is a hybrid engine/tranny combo and the mount is somewhere in between), put a Audi TT 225hp intake manifold on and am getting the bracketry around it squared away. There is now a nice straight shot from the turbo outlet to the TT intake, about the distance a good A/W intercooler(chargecooler for the guys on the other side of the pond) should fit nicely into. The clutch might be a hybrid as well for now, stock type I cable back to a bracket that moves the hydrolic master cylinder for the stock Jetta. Eventually I'm sure it will be hydrolic all the way, the trouble is getting the pedal assembly in there without too much cutting. I was not able to integrate the "pendulum" style mounts of VWs from 1998-present. There was not enough room for clearance on the passenger side of the engine without cutting out the inside of the passenger rear wheelwell. I think I can make the oldstyle low mounts work, I just don't like the amount of engine/tranny movement that they allow. I'll probably build some additional motor mounts to prevent unwanted movement later. The biggest hurdle currently is how to attach the upper strut plates for the Mac struts. If they are welded on, to remove the superstructure from the vehicle would require the removal of much of the C pillar. I'm trying to come up with a way to make those plates removable so they can be unbolted then the superstructure will slide right out. That's it for now!

Jason

LLVWGL

June 15th 2005, 21:58

that is cool. I hope you dont run into reliability problems with the new VW parts.

volkdent

June 15th 2005, 23:10

that is cool. I hope you dont run into reliability problems with the new VW parts.

You are too funny! :laugh:

That's exactly why I'm doing this, to get reliability AND power!

Jason

volkdent

June 30th 2005, 23:43

This is the final version but it needs final welding and the addition of the strut mount plates. Their may be one or two more triangulating bars, but this should suffice till the kinks are worked out...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/215077.jpg

hugovw1976

July 4th 2005, 16:15

I work in a similar proyect.

And I have a questions.

How you install the radiator?

volkdent

July 4th 2005, 21:54

Well, I have a plan. That isn't to say it will work, but I have a bunch of space behind the spare tire area. I have a guy who will make me an aluminum radiator that is 8" high, but 26" wide and I think 3 cores. With ducting from a lip under the front end, I hope to have enough airflow to keep things cool at speed. I'm also going to have a spring loaded section of the lip that pops down to gather more air as the air pressure builds up on it. And finally, I have 3 8" electric fans for stop and go traffic.

From the looks of it, you'll have some cooling issues to get squared away too! Great work.

Jason

hugovw1976

July 4th 2005, 22:35

volkdent

July 5th 2005, 01:22

Yeah, go to

http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=676&page=10&pp=15

The thread is kinda interesting.

Jason

hugovw1976

July 5th 2005, 10:31

:eek: The front end looks great. :agree:

And for the engine air intake?

volkdent

July 5th 2005, 18:43

Thanks, it been a long time coming and a labour of love, just like yours! It is basically done, but we are probably going to raise the upper shock mount just slightly to get a little more travel in suspension bump.

I think just NACA ducts in Lexan pop-out side windows. One will flow directly to a K&N type filter for cool air in, the other side to flow cold air into the engine bay.

Jason

hugovw1976

July 5th 2005, 20:30

Ok.

and for the intercooler?

sorry for so many question.

volkdent

July 6th 2005, 00:33

You're too crazy. The only reason you'd be asking about an intercooler is if you were thinking of turbocharging you're rig! Go for it!

For me, just to get things rolling, I'm going to attach another 8" fan to the back of the stock IC.

But the long term idea is an air/water IC. I've installed the Audi TT 225hp intake manifold so there is a very short run from the turbo outlet to the manifold intake, and just in between there's enough room for the intercooler. There will be a couple of small motorcycle radiators up front. The other option is a small wing over the rear window with a small motorcycle radiator in it.

About the radiator, let me know if you need something specific. I'm thinking about going to WRC Rally Mexico, and I could send something after I fly it down there.

Jason

hugovw1976

July 6th 2005, 09:49

Steve C

July 6th 2005, 20:32

Hi

Love what your doing with your car. I bought a air/water IC from an early Subaru Libery RS. It was only $150 with pump and radiator, the beauty is that it will almost connect straight up to my STI motor.

Steve

http://www.clubvw.org.au/images/Subaru_intercooler.jpg

volkdent

July 7th 2005, 01:07

Hey Steve!

The problem is that there were never any Subaru Legacy RS's here! Maybe you can hook me up with an intercooler when I get there. I just don't know how much shipping is! I might be having Bob fab up some more of the suspensions over there, so if I do there may be a crate being shipped back this way.

Jason

Steve C

July 7th 2005, 05:16

Hio Jason

Are you coming out to Australia? Have to meet if we can. I bought my intercooler from SSS Automotive in Sydney http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/ , they will sell just the IC for $50.00 Au, thats cheap in your money, they are not heavy, so post would not be to much. A friend is using one on a big Type 4 motor and as its all alloy he was able to weld up unused holes and make new ones.

Steve

volkdent

July 7th 2005, 22:40

Actually yes! High on my list is a trip down under. I've only heard good things, and I'd like to meet Bob Frost-Stevenson, the designer of my front end as well. Where are you located anyway?

Jason

Steve C

July 8th 2005, 10:12

Hi Jason

Let me know when your coming. Im in Sydney.

Steve

justdubbin

July 9th 2005, 10:21

Thanks.

I have in mind something similar but unfortunately here in mexico nobody make an aluminium radiator.

I have to import from USA but the taxes and shipping are killingme.

Do you know anyone in the US who can get it made for you and then send it to you as a "gift" therefore bypassing the tax ?

Just a thought.

hugovw1976

July 9th 2005, 14:21

No, I don't have anybody. :bawling:

DORIGTT

July 9th 2005, 16:51

C'mon hugovw1976,

We're all family here :D

Care to let your big brother Kevin here drive your toy seeing as I sent you the radiator? ;)

Seriously though. What would be the easiest way to get this guy the custom unit he needs? I'll meet you at the Rio Grande! I'll just hand it over the 'border' to you :laugh:

hugovw1976

July 11th 2005, 15:00

volkdent

July 17th 2005, 23:53

So, after all this time I finally get the wiring harness.... ITS THE WRONG ONE!!!!!! I'm really getting tired of this. So, ANOTHER phone call tomorrow :mad:

hugovw1976

July 18th 2005, 10:07

So, after all this time I finally get the wiring harness.... ITS THE WRONG ONE!!!!!! I'm really getting tired of this. So, ANOTHER phone call tomorrow :mad:

Wath harness you need?

I have one from a Beetle Turbo 2002 (150 hp) may be it's the rigth for you.

volkdent

July 18th 2005, 17:26

Thanks for the offer Hugo, but I'm owed these parts, I'm just waiting and waiting for them. He'll get it squared away eventually, but we all die someday and I'm not sure which will come first!

Jason

volkdent

August 1st 2005, 21:53

Not much progress lately. Been very busy and its hot, so I've not been to motivated. Have worked out a removable rear strut mount design, so as soon as I get off my a$$ things should start rolling again. The strut mounts will become part of the car, while the superstructure can be removed after being unbolted from the strut mounts.

I went to pickandpull and got a Jetta steering rack. It will have to be locked so it doesn't turn at all and I'll use that in the back for now till I fab up something lighter.

Jason

volkdent

October 31st 2005, 00:51

Last night the car finally hit the floor. It's been on jackstands for 3 years now, so it was quite a momentous occasion. Here is the rear end on the ground:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/235293.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/235295.jpg

I should mention, at this point in time the rear end still has the ability to steer! So it makes this thing easy to move around the garage

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/235296.jpg

Obviously this is temporary. The C-clamps should do just fine for moving it around, but I put the zip ties on just as a safety precaution.

volkdent

October 31st 2005, 01:16

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/235298.jpg

Here's my Boo Boo. I had a preview of this over a year ago, but I was beyond the point of no return, so I had to keep it going. The wheel is set back slightly, I'm guessing about 15mm. A longer wheelbase will be better for high speed stability anyway, right?! If I get too upset about it, I'll reshape the front inside edge of the fender to make the gap look better.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/235299.jpg

This one is a little fuzzy, sorry. Better pics to come.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/235300.jpg

BOBTAIL

October 31st 2005, 02:42

Lookin great Jason :) nice to see you are still on it great work that man! way to go

volkdent

October 31st 2005, 14:28

Hey Paul,

Do you know what happened to your project?

Jason

Racelook

October 31st 2005, 18:10

Verry nice update!!!!

How wide are your rear fenders?

Greetings Wiebrand

BOBTAIL

October 31st 2005, 20:52

Hey Paul,

Do you know what happened to your project?

Jason
I dont Im afraid Ill see if i can find out who the new owner is and where theyre up to.

volkdent

November 1st 2005, 00:54

Verry nice update!!!!

How wide are your rear fenders?

Greetings Wiebrand

I can't remember for certain, but they are the widest ones CCC makes, I think 3"? maybe 2"

Sorry,

Jason

hugovw1976

November 3rd 2005, 16:47

Very nice. :agree: :)

scoobytuner

November 3rd 2005, 17:21

amazing car, amazing thread!!! Here is my question, I have a 00 1.8t beetle wrecked, i have been planning a subaru swap for sure, but seeing this thread makes me want to rip the motor out of the new beetle, and the harness, and everything else, and put it in my 73 beetle. would you recommend it? is there any info you could give me to either persuade me to do it or not do it? I really like the idea of the swap, because the transmission is a strong unit, the motor is stout as hell, it would be completely mid engine, more or less, and would make a VERY nice setup.

volkdent

November 4th 2005, 01:37

I'd like to say go for it, but I can't prove that it will be any good! Sure it will be powerful, and the weight will be more forward, but it will also be taller. I would think maybe my next conversion will be STi with an Audi tranny, really mid-engine. Even the 1.8t with an Audi tranny would be a great option. It will involve a lot more cutting of the pan, but much less of the body. You'd need to figure out a new rear suspension. I've been eyeing these guys' rear end(no, I'm not gay)

http://www.sakermotorsports.com/galleries/TheCar/gallery_theCar.html

They use a Suby mid-engine and they've figured out the suspension and GET THIS, it's the right width for the bug as well. OK, you may have to use wider fenders, but still.

I'm not done with mine, and if it works out great, I might stick with it for a long, long time, but if it's just OK, that will be my next move. Heck, I might even go with an Audi 2.7t!

If you want to use your 1.8t, you'll probably have to do the same thing I did, or hook it up to an Audi tranny and build your own rear suspension. I didn't have the stomach for it at the time, so I figured I stick with what VW did, but in the end, the front suspension was designed for a FWD car, and that geometry may come back to bite me in the butt. If you could make the Saker guys talk or get parts from them, you'd be able to build yourself some sweet rear suspension. It may be OK, but like I said, I really don't know how it will work out yet.

Jason

scoobytuner

November 4th 2005, 03:48

i think the fact that it sits higher, is about a 1.618 on a scale of 1-10 in drawbacks. the good things are the transmission is strong, the motor is in the middle, the front vw suspension can be used on the rear (i bet it would work well), the transmission is strong, the transmission is strong, the transmission is strong, and .... well, yeah.

the fabrication needed to make it all fit will be a bitch, and ill have to learn fast, or wouldhave to if i do this, but i really think it should be a tear your hair off fast, and really well balanced overall.

i think youre just being humble.

you deserve props.

volkdent

November 7th 2005, 22:50

Keep in mind that what I have is a combination of many years of VWs for the drivetrain. There is a MkIII subframe, MkII control arms, MkIII tranny, MkIV engine. If you tried to make your MkIV stuff fit in, you'd have a rear end that is about 3" wider than what I already have. On top of which, MkIVs have a pendulum mount for the motor, and unless you are interested in cutting more body than I already have, the pendulum mount won't fit, though it is much better for handling high HP. The main thing is the track of the drivetrain, and MkIV is WAY wider than MkII.

I was at Infinion Raceway this weekend for BMW CCA track "school" with my M3. Parked next to me was a Noble M12, a Lotus Elise, and a Ford GT. It was rough. Anyway, I got a chance to spend a lot of time looking at the Noble and the Lotus. The Lotus is almost exactly the same layout as my bug, but it has a much shorter wheelbase. They just put a Toyota motor in there, but it sits exactly where mine 1.8t does in relation to the rear wheels. It made me feel better. I just hope my suspension geometry lends itself to some good handling.

Jason

Panelfantastic

November 7th 2005, 23:37

Walked up to the neighbor's yesterday, he's got a Noble M12... with get this- 115 miles on it! Says he's about to sell cuz who needs a silly car like that !!! said his brother talked him into building one because the brother had one on order too. There are actually 3 here... kinda funny, we've got more Nobles per capita than anywhere in the US. Anyway, neat car. Still, eighty grand is a lot of cheese.

Jeff-

volkdent

November 8th 2005, 21:33

mmmmmmmmmm cheeeeeeeese........

I think mine might be more fun. The trouble with high performance cars like that is where to drive them. It doesn't surprise me he only has 100 miles on it. It's sad. I'm going to thrash my bug as often as possible until it begs me to stop. That's fun. I went for a few laps in a couple of other older M3s, still E36s, but '95s. They had springs and shocks and R compound tires. OMG, it was insane. I could barely hang on. There is very little guilt in thrashing an older, not that expensive car. When the Ford GT was out on the track, do you think he could stomach giving it 9 or 10 10ths? I don't think so. Thats why I want to build a car that is relatively inexpensive and very unique.

My 3 cents for the day.

Jason

Panelfantastic

November 9th 2005, 11:36

I'll back up your 3 cents and raise you 3! Bang for the buck is what we're sayin'. As my wife and I were walking away from the Noble, she asked if I would build one of those... same philosophy as you, for 80 g's I could build a couple of fun cars and have a blast doing something different. There's 3 Nobles here, but how many Eco powered panels? :D

volkdent

November 13th 2005, 23:56

It's over at Walt's Custom Services now. He has a nice trailer and was nice enough to come over an pic it up today. Having the rear steer right now makes for easy moving around.

Walt's Custom Services (http://www.walts.info/index.htm)

He'll be making up the rear strut mounts. They have to be removable from the main superstructure so the whole think can actually come out of the car without splitting the body from the pan.

He thinks it will be done pretty quickly! :)

Jason

Panelfantastic

November 14th 2005, 11:09

I'm thinkin' you need to incorporate the rear steer as a permanent option!

Jeff-

volkdent

November 14th 2005, 21:52

I went down and talked to Walt on the clock today. In a way it's nice to see him sweating over the details. I was just not getting anywhere, and I think he'll be able to get us a great result. I can breathe easy for a bit till it's done. Apparently the wiring harness(now from another source) will be arriving tomorrow and the radiator this week as well. Things are starting to move along.

Here's the plate that may be used for the strut mount, but the whole idea may be scrapped due to spacial issues

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/237712.jpg

Jason

volkdent

November 20th 2005, 18:26

Well, she's back home now. Walt did a great job on making these strut mounts. There is adjustment for strut angulation front/back and then there is camber adjustment. Everything is tacked up, so I'll need to pull it all apart and do the final welding, throw on a coat of paint, then get the motor back in and see how she looks.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238883.jpg

The hole got a little bit on this side, but when your doing things for the first time, a little elbow room goes a long way to keep the nerves settled!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238884.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238885.jpg

volkdent

November 20th 2005, 18:32

Here is is on the welding table. It's not perfect, but when all was said and done, this thing ends up being pretty close!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238886.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238887.jpg

The welds are VERY nice. This will have a collar welded to it along the main plate to minimize flexing.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238888.jpg

volkdent

November 20th 2005, 18:44

Walt says he's an old man, but as you can see here, he still works very fast, he's just a blur!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238890.jpg

Here's the radiator. I had it made by Brian McCullough at Custom Aluminum Radiators (http://www.alumrad.com/) in AZ. He did a great job.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238881.jpg

I had him make up this bleed srew as well. It will reside in the drivers front inner fender. It will allow me to bleed the air from the line up front, while the stock cooling system will bleed itself in the rear, or so the theory goes!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238897.jpg

ricola

November 21st 2005, 05:00

Coming on great Jason!

Rich

volkdent

December 3rd 2005, 18:40

More surgery. This JUST fits in here with the fans installed. It's butted up against the back of the spare tire area, but fortunately it's angled so airflow should still be great once the ducting is done.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/241581.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/241582.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/241584.jpg

Panelfantastic

December 3rd 2005, 20:43

Ahhh, radiator in the front. I like! :cool:

Mikey

December 4th 2005, 03:36

Sweet design for the rear struts. :agree:

Looks like it's really taking off. Can't wait for the next step.

dirk.Gysbrechts

December 4th 2005, 03:48

This looks awsome!!

volkdent

December 4th 2005, 19:22

Ahhh, radiator in the front. I like! :cool:
You would! How's yours coming anyway? Is the house and the wife giving you enough play time? If your still having trouble, think about having Brian build you a really wide but short one. You could mount it at the front almost flat and duct air in from a front lip maybe?

Thanks guys, I think I'm still on target for it running sometime in the spring. It will be a rolling monstrosity, but I'll leave it rough till all the tweaks are done then rip it apart and make it look purdy.

I just got a call from Bruce at Eyeball Engineering and he's done with my chassis stiffeners, so apparently those will be shipped out shortly. $450 for 2 sets of jig bent stiffners and hardware ain't too bad I don't think. If you have been following along, I tried to build my own a long time ago and it was really difficult and not nearly as strong as jig bent ones, so I'm very happy to part with the cash.

Jason

Panelfantastic

December 4th 2005, 21:19

I have been working on it. Not the cooling part, mostly front suspension re-do. My front control arms are at the fabricators now, getting gussets and new lower shock mounts. Once that's done, it's cooling time!
I wish I could do something like yours! The big hurdle on buses is the steering box. It's big and right smack in the way. Ditching it and going to a rack would be awesome but there's the whole deal about the steering being so far in front of the front wheels... :rolleyes: I have yet to see anyone design anything different on bus steering. I do have some room on the passenger side, enough for something like a motorcycle rad... which I just happen to have coming :D . It wouldn't be enough to handle all the cooling, but I'm thinking pre-rad kinda setup.

Jeff-

Steve C

December 5th 2005, 08:45

Hi Jeff

Sorry to highjack the post. Regarding the steering on the panel. Do you have Mitsubishi L300s in your neck of the woods? They are a forward control van that uses a rack & pinion. At the base of the steering column they have a small gearbox that changes the shaft direction, another shaft then runs back to the rack & pinion.

Steve

They look like this

http://img.drive.com.au/drive_images/dealer/cenmotcom/2989_1_m.jpg

Panelfantastic

December 5th 2005, 10:44

Thanks Steve!
I'll be on the lookout for one. Come to think of it, the early toyota vans have a similar look. I need to get my head under one and see whats what.

Jeff-

lister

December 9th 2005, 19:22

Panelfantastic, have you not thought about using a T25 transfer box

have a nose here

http://www.bug-box.de/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=115&Itemid=98

use a vauxhall (GM) Astra rack

Have a nose here

http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=198821

Panelfantastic

December 9th 2005, 21:35

Good info! Thanks!

Jeff-

volkdent

December 21st 2005, 03:43

More details. It would seem that after years of trying to get it, I have the correct wiring harness heading my way in the next week. I purchased the O2 sensors today. Amazing, a local "european" parts store wanted $350 for the pair, went to the VW Dealer, $100 for the pair. AMAZING! More than triple for the same parts. The VW Dealer has surprised me a few times with how little their prices are. Also purchased a glass pre-filter for big chunks, and the stock 1.8t fuel filter for after the fuel pump, and some fuel-safe thread sealand for the fittings onto the fuel pump and to the bottom of the gas tank..

On the cooling side of things, I purchased the fittings for my air bleed extension. I drilled a hole on the side of the area behind the spare. A stop****(that's what I call it, but it may be called something else) is bolted into that hole. A hose leads to the high point of the front cooling setup. After the system is filled, any trapped air should find its way to this high point, then I can just reach in end undo the stop**** and let the trapped air out. That's my theory at least! Pics to come.

Jason

bean_8044

December 21st 2005, 06:07

better late than never:

http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/lsupur.htm

VolksWagen dealers in North America sell a Bosch LSU4 wide band sensor for a ~$30. However this sensor is only inexpensive when purchased from North American sources. The Bosch part number is 0 258 007 057 or 0 258 007 058 (these are the same sensor, but they have leads of different length), and it can be purchased as a VW part number 021-906-262-B.

Panelfantastic

December 21st 2005, 12:22

I've been watching one of those street tuner shows that featured a new Jetta. They had a ECU team come in to do a piggyback system. Name of the company was 034EFI (http://www.034motorsport.com/) .
This is probably not much help if you already have a system on the way... but for future reference.

Jeff-

...and I almost forgot, TPIWWP! :D

volkdent

December 22nd 2005, 04:27

Jeff, I only do worthless posts, or didn't you figure that out yet? :D I'll get them on here next week, hold your horses!

Hey Bean, thank you for your post. Unfortuneatly I've read it again and again, but I don't quite understand what's being said. I know you pasted from MegaSquirt. Is it saying that in other countries that those O2 sensors are really expensive then?

And what about MegaSquirt, is that something I might be interested in? What would it do for me?

Sorry, I have been travelling all day and my mind no worky to good, but I just can't quite figure out what's going on.

Jason

Panelfantastic

December 22nd 2005, 10:15

Mega is a stand alone efi controller that you build and program yourself. Really a bare bones, adaptable setup. If I remember right, the basic deal just controls fuel, then you can add a different module for spark, etc. etc.
One of the cheapest ways to go but some say not complex enough to provide all the tuning options.

Jeff-

volkdent

December 22nd 2005, 13:01

So it sounds like it wouldn't be better at controlling all the variables than the stock ECU for the most part then? I think I'll try to get the thing up and running, and then maybe just spend the cash and get a turbo/chip setup from APR or someone like that who's spent a lot of time with it. From what I've read those guys tend to tune for longevity and driveability than just dyno numbers. Am I just being too cautious? Is there something better?

Jason

Panelfantastic

December 22nd 2005, 13:33

I could be waay off about Megasquirt... but the way I understand the product, it is a basic unit that allows you to develop your own fuel mapping from their base program. Ideal for tech savvy guys who want to spend hours mapping every micron of their fuel curve and trying to optimize power and driveability.
I bought a harness and ECU that is already programmed (not Mega) because I'm not really interested in learning fuel curve data logging. I like nuts and bolts, hands on tools, that kind of stuff. I don't have the patience to sit in the passenger seat for hours and ride around trying to develop a fuel map. G*d bless those that do! it's just not for me. I want plug and play.

If you can use the stock brain and harness, hell yeah that is the way to go! Most stock units have sooo much extra garbage that you won't be able to use but still need inputs and the average Joe doesn't know how to sort them out... they end up going with a Mega unit and starting from scratch. Plus, comparatively speaking, Mega is inexpensive (almost half what I paid for a Delphi for my Eco).

ricola

December 22nd 2005, 13:39

Megasquirt is a completely DIY ECU that a couple of guys are developing. They just sell the bespoke circuit board and you solder in all the components and processor and wire it all in yourself. So many people have done theirs now and the support from forums is huge that a lot of people now sell assembled units and develop the software so it is developing itself with some quite advanced finctions (like autotuning with a wideband O2 sensor).

Rich

Panelfantastic

December 22nd 2005, 13:57

Thanks Rich!
I was hoping someone would join in with Mega friendly advice.
I'm am definately scared of that which I do not understand so I'm not a fan of DIY electronics, BUT I wasn't trying to deter anyone else who's not a big scaredy chicken like me!
Like you said, A lot of people use the system and love it!

bean_8044

December 22nd 2005, 14:29

Well, initially i pasted the Mega site to show that those sensors shouldnt be more than $30 from VW. Maybe the site is old and the prices have risen sharply, but when i got mine last year, they were $30. Im glad it spawned a new discussion though. As for hours of tuning....the amount you put in is equal to what you get out. Fuel mapping isnt as hard as they would have you believe. Make some 100% passes and fill in the big stuff, then the rest just falls into place

volkdent

December 22nd 2005, 17:25

Maybe I'm just not adventurous enough, but I figure that the factory probably has a couple of more brain cells into this setup than most people, and I tend to think that factory stuff is conservative so their product will last for awhile. Case in point, if the 180hp 1.8ts block was "strong enough", why did they bother to add a bunch of extra ribbing to the block and add extra oiling and piston squirters of the 225hp motor? It's only 45 more hp. Were they just bored?

Do the guys that say they have 300hp (180hp block) 1.8ts know more than the factory? I don't think so. They are cutting corners and the result is reduced longevity, reduced safety(ever seen a turbo motor fire? not pretty), and reduced drivability(yeah, I'm not really into having 300hp come on tap suddently at about 4000rpm). I just can't imagine that I would be able to tune something that the factory spent thousands of man hours on with data logging equipment that I don't have access to and get results that are superior in any way besides horsepower and torque numbers, which are only SOME of the important numbers you need to make something last for awhile. What about EGT, head temperature, transient oil pressure, knocking, fuel economy, water temp, and a bunch of stuff I've never even thought about, but I'm guess VAG did.

Here's a little something I thought about. If you put in a lightened flywheel or a turbo, your motor will spin up faster. What I suspect lags is the oil pressure/volume. Just slightly, but I think the oil is removed faster than it is replaced for just a few milliseconds before the volume catches up again. So if this keeps up, I think wear would be increased. I think that's why race engines have such big oil pumps, gotta keep that oil pressure and volume up as those motors zip up and down. That's just one of my theories, anyone care to comment? Those little changes that "modifying" creates aren't often looked at in my opinion, but when a manufacturer hots something up, they HAVE TO.

All that said, 300hp sounds fun, doesn't it? I'm only human you know!

Jason

bean_8044

December 22nd 2005, 21:14

I dont think you can accuratly look at a race car and derive literal street translations. Theres always race on sunday, sell on monday, but not everyone needs 14" rotors. I cant speak for the VW1.8T, but i have had expierence with the toyota JZ engines. With either the 1jz or 2jz, you can slap on a larger turbo, pump some more fuel and never have a second thought. They come stock with the oil squirters and sump, not to mention some pretty stout manufacturing processes.
In refrence to oil starvation, i dont think that youd run out because of the sudden rpm increase since the oil system has some kind of pressure at all times. The oil isnt going to disappear when the RPMs increase unless youre running some crappy oil. Maybe if youre constantly going from 1k to 10k rpms and back down then you might see some extra wear, but for normal driving/occasional racing it doesnt seem to be an issue. Then again, its dependant on what you start with...

volkdent

January 3rd 2006, 00:45

I spent WAY too much time with the wiring harness. It looks like I'm going standalone! I called up 034 Motorsport and they are going to hook me up with a killer system. I like the idea of being able to tune it for the what I want it anyway, and this is a way easier system that uses most of the stock sensors.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/247649.jpg

I met a guy, Dave S, today. He is a member on GL Forums but hasn't posted yet. Keep your eyes open, it's going to get even crazier around here! Anyway, he had a DBW Mustang and said the throttle response sucked because of it, so I'm kind of glad to be getting rid of the DBW system. I'll be ordering up a cable throttle body tomorrow.

On the cooling front, I installed the bleed area up front. This is at the highest point of the front area of the cooling system. The valve can be opened when the pressure is up a bit in the system, and then any trapped air can be bled off.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/247651.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/247653.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/247656.jpg

Jason

volkdent

January 3rd 2006, 00:50

Here's a pic of the rear end in its more or less complete form. Those are 4 piston Wilwood Dynalites. I'm thinking 6 piston up front, black again, and 13 inch rotors. I also have a mechanical brake caliper, but I'm going to have to fab up a bracket for that, it's not a bolt on type affair. Who needs an E brake anyway!

The hole for the strut was opened up a bit more than I would have liked, but it's all done in the name of science!

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/247659.jpg

Jason

Panelfantastic

January 3rd 2006, 10:29

That was one scary looking rat nest you had going :eek: ! Glad you found an alternative with 034. That was the exact thing that made me nervous about my conversion, getting a harness/ecu.
It's really starting to come together!

Jeff-

volkdent

January 30th 2006, 01:34

Finished welding the 1.8t chassis components today. Next time I work on it, if it's not raining, I'll be doing sanding, rust removal, primer, and paint next time. I wish I had a TIG welder and knew how to TIG, my MIG welds are strong enough, but don't look so hot and cleaning up splatter is a PITA.

Then it's re-assembly, hoping that nothing got too warped in final welding, and pop the engine in.

Jason

volkdent

March 5th 2006, 23:19

Painted most of the superstructure this weekend. Almost everything fit after final welding, ALMOST. The main assembly pulled together with some triangulation welding quite severly, so I'm going to have to cut and reweld 2 tubes, fortunately the alignment of the superstructure isn't affected by these rascals. I hope someday I'll have welded enough that I'll know better, but for now I'll just muddle along. Everything else looks quite good.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/260452.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/260453.jpg

I've got the aluminum coolant lines in position. Walt bent them for me, and they fit into the notch between the body and the pan so tightly they actually stay there without a bracket!

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/260454.jpg

volkdent

March 5th 2006, 23:24

This is the flex line to connect the aluminum hard lines to the radiator. I'll be cutting the aluminum and then adding a flared lip to retain the hose clamp later.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/260455.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/260456.jpg

ricola

March 6th 2006, 04:18

Nice progress Jason :) By the looks of it you will be able to develop an almost bolt in kit for the engine too! Did you weld the aluminium pipes?

Rich

Racelook

March 6th 2006, 07:47

I thought that I followed and read hole your topic; but steering on the back??

WIebrand

volkdent

March 6th 2006, 13:15

Nice progress Jason :) By the looks of it you will be able to develop an almost bolt in kit for the engine too! Did you weld the aluminium pipes?

Rich

I actually built this thing with the idea that it could be put on another car, but I doubt anyone would really want to buy a kit of this nature, it's just too involved. I still have to make the roll bar.

I had Walt do the aluminum welding. He bent them as well. I don't have a set of dies for my bender that small, and I don't have a TIG welder.

I'm going to try to get everything back together and then focus on the braking system for awhile. I kind of jump around from system to system to keep me entertained!

Jason

volkdent

March 6th 2006, 13:17

I thought that I followed and read hole your topic; but steering on the back??

WIebrand

Yeah, all wheel steering, I didn't tell you? JUST KIDDING! It was just the easiest way to retain the correct dimensions. It will be replaced with something solid mounted in the future, but for now it will suffice.

Jason

Racelook

March 7th 2006, 07:51

Hahaha OKay

zeroaxe

March 12th 2006, 06:24

Yeah, all wheel steering, I didn't tell you? JUST KIDDING! It was just the easiest way to retain the correct dimensions. It will be replaced with something solid mounted in the future, but for now it will suffice.

Jason

Just a shot in the dark here (I am still learning myself about all this malarky!), but wont the tie-rods(that is what they are called, no?) give you the ability to adjust toe-in, toe-out on the wheels? I do know that the steering rack-part will need to be a solid piece in the future though. I just thought that part of that solid piece might still have these tie-rods to allow you to make those adjustments?

Oh, btw, if I haven't introduced myself yet.... My name is Theo, lived in London before moving to France, born in S.Africa though(20km from Jo'burg). Got a 1303 Super(year?) that was refered to by a friend as a "rust bucket" that needs a resto. A '66 Type 3 Fastback and a CombiSplit is in the NEAR future! :D

Mikey

March 12th 2006, 22:15

Your rear suspension and coolant lines look awesome. I just tackled my coolant lines this past weekend. I didn't see your thread before I did it. Too bad, I think it would have helped. Except the Ghia is differant under the heater channels.

Great looking project. The guy I work for just recently bought a TIG welder. It's great. :cool: I had to either put bends in my coolant lines or cut and weld. The TIG welder worked perfect. My aluminum welding needs practice, but the welder was great. :laugh:

Keep the updates coming. :agree:

volkdent

March 13th 2006, 01:37

Just a shot in the dark here (I am still learning myself about all this malarky!), but wont the tie-rods(that is what they are called, no?) give you the ability to adjust toe-in, toe-out on the wheels? I do know that the steering rack-part will need to be a solid piece in the future though. I just thought that part of that solid piece might still have these tie-rods to allow you to make those adjustments?

Oh, btw, if I haven't introduced myself yet.... My name is Theo, lived in London before moving to France, born in S.Africa though(20km from Jo'burg). Got a 1303 Super(year?) that was refered to by a friend as a "rust bucket" that needs a resto. A '66 Type 3 Fastback and a CombiSplit is in the NEAR future! :D

Hey Theo, great to meet you. One of my good friends here is from S.A., but he's got a disease called rugby. You havn't caught that have you?

Yeah, its just a toe adjustment. They are very common on the rear end of a lot of cars. The inner balljoint will stay in the same position, just the mount will be solid and stable.

Jason

volkdent

March 13th 2006, 01:38

Mikey

March 13th 2006, 13:47

Thanks for the kudos, I'm just muddling along. I need to get a TIG welder, but it's just down the list a bit, behind the plasma cutter!

Jason

We have a plasma cutter too. :laugh: Great for sheet metal. I've used it a bunch on my Ghia, really comes in handy.

I'm very lucky I have a place to work with the tools I have to use, and a place to keep my car while I work on it. :) My project would be just a dream if it wasn't for all of Tim's help.

volkdent

March 14th 2006, 02:22

Everything is back in the car again painted. I had to cut the triangulation at the back of the superstructure. After welding, it distorted enough that I couldn't get it back in. Once those tubes were cut, it went in relatively smoothly.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/261906.jpg

You can see the angled tubes in this picture at the top back. They need to be welded in place, and I can do that now that the rear window is out..

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/261909.jpg

Jason

zeroaxe

March 17th 2006, 02:47

Hey Theo, great to meet you. One of my good friends here is from S.A., but he's got a disease called rugby. You havn't caught that have you?

Aahhhhh, the game of REAL MEN! Yes, I support the sport too, but am not a FANATIC about it. I prefer motorsports. Motorcycling to be more accurate...... Well, to be exact, MotoGP and WorldSuperbikes!!! :agree:

Yeah, its just a toe adjustment. They are very common on the rear end of a lot of cars. The inner balljoint will stay in the same position, just the mount will be solid and stable.

Jason
I get ya! It makes sense. When I saw the set-up, I just thought that it could be of some use :rolleyes:

volkdent

April 2nd 2006, 23:18

The motor is back in. It's a tight fit, but it fits! I found out that one of the stock 1.8t coolant hoses will run right into my aluminum side tubes! I swear, I've been surprised again and again how this thing almost feels like it's supposed to be in there. I'll be ordering the standalone EFI tomorrow.

Here's the coolant lines:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/266772.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/266770.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/266768.jpg

Jason

volkdent

April 3rd 2006, 23:30

Here's everything in:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/266773.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/266774.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/266775.jpg

Jason

volkdent

April 11th 2006, 17:24

Recieved the 034 EFI yesterday. Electronics aren't that special to look at. Awefully expensive little box. Also recieved the standard cable throttle body.

Any suggestions for where to get really good quality bulk length cable for a throttle?

Jason

Panelfantastic

April 11th 2006, 18:05

Lokar (http://www.lokar.com/)
They do some really nice streetrod stuff. Didn't see bulk cable on their site but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Jeff-

volkdent

April 11th 2006, 22:42

Thanks Jeff, I fired them off an email to see how long their standard universal cable is. I'm thinking I can probably get bulk throttle cable from a motorcycle shop too, but I'm not sure if it is heavy-duty enough.

Jason

Panelfantastic

April 12th 2006, 18:30

Expect the prices to be high. Their normal clientel has money to burn. I asked them about making me a new dipstick and flexible tube for the Eco (ended up tweaking the orig and using it) and they said "no prob, send the orig for a pattern and we'll have it back in a couple weeks". Remember, this would have been all billet, braided housing, billet bracket, etc. cost about $75-100. Fair enough for a trick piece but pricey for a dipstick.

Jeff-

Phat73VW

May 9th 2006, 18:26

whats the latest on this car?

volkdent

May 9th 2006, 19:19

The latest is I've been working on the braking system. I've also been renovating a house and taking a CAD course at the local JC, and doing some travelling, so the bugs been a little neglected. Hope to change that within a couple of weekends. Once I move into the new house I'll also have a new garage to work out of that's within earshot instead of being across town.

Jason

bow

May 17th 2006, 21:38

excuse my ignorance but is that all wheel steering?

volkdent

May 18th 2006, 01:20

excuse my ignorance but is that all wheel steering?

Obviously your not ignorant at all because that is exactly what it is! Only it's not because it won't be utilized on the rear. It is fixed right now, and eventually the steering rack won't be there at all.

Cement work has started for the garage foundations, and I may be able to move into the house this weekend. Front calipers FINALLY showed up today, so this weekend I'll be sending off one of those and one rotor to Lanner.

Sorry nothing too interesting to report, life gets in the way of bug love sometimes!

Jason

Panelfantastic

May 18th 2006, 13:25

Too much time spent trying to finish your own projects! :mad:

Not enough time spent trying to get that front suspension mass produced! :p
(as if I even had a place to put one or the money to spend :bawling: )

Jeff- :laugh:

MikeVW

June 2nd 2006, 23:17

Jason,

I have been pondering a setup similar to yours. I ran through the ideas of an entire front clip in the rear or using an MR2 rear clip but I have settled on a VTEC motor and trans with a tube subframe or full tube frame. I am wondering how you are going to get your front mount transmission to shift correctly in the rear. I saw on your website you are using a Boxter shifter but have you figured out the linkage yet?

Mike

volkdent

June 3rd 2006, 02:51

I used the Boxter shifter because it has the the cable heading out the right way, and I've got it to work, but it's really stiff side to side, where it's supposed to be loose, so either something is up with the tranny, or there's a fundamental difference with how the Porsche tranny works compared to the VW. It can be worked out, I just haven't spent the time yet to figure out where it needs to be tweaked.

Jason

levi20AE

June 15th 2006, 20:29

I imagine you are familar with the VWvortex (vwvortex.com)? The guys from 034 are very active in the 1.8t forums on the vortex. I have heard that the 034 customer support is excellent via the vortex and over the phone. I am helping a friend install 034 on his 1.8t Audi A4 this week. Which 034 unit are you using? Let us know how you like the EFI.

I love you project by the way. I'm sure the 1.8t forums would love to see some of the pictures you have posted here. Keep up the good work!!!

volkdent

June 16th 2006, 00:45

Thanks Levi! I havn't actually had a chance to get the engine running yet, but I have no doubt Javad will help me any way he can. Keep me posted on how your project comes. I got the IIc setup.

Jason

Steve Arndt

August 17th 2006, 11:52

aircooled.net sells Morse cables. That is what you want.

rad project! I am installing a Redline R882C ECU on my project which has specs like the stage IIC from Javad.

volkdent

August 17th 2006, 13:37

Thanks Steve, the Lokar guys were really not in the same catagory. It was all street rod stuff, and I suspect the Morse stuff is what I want. No progress at all lately, except for slow movement with the front brakes. Epoxy is down on the garage floor, so this weekend everything will be piled back in and I can start to organize. It sucks not knowing where anything is!

Jason

Panelfantastic

August 17th 2006, 17:40

Epoxy floors! Dayum! Must be nice to have the fancy workshop.:cool:

BTW, I'm running a morse for my throttle, tons of diff little ends and brackets avail and lengths up to 14ft.

Jeff-

volkdent

August 17th 2006, 18:50

Epoxy floors! Dayum! Must be nice to have the fancy workshop.:cool:

BTW, I'm running a morse for my throttle, tons of diff little ends and brackets avail and lengths up to 14ft.

Jeff-

Well why didn't you just say so! Are you trying to empty my wallet! Lokar...:laugh:

I'm not THAT high maintanence you know!

Jason

poor boy

December 28th 2006, 13:58

volkdent

December 28th 2006, 21:13

just finished reading the majority of this post and found several items interesting.
1) what are teh advantages to the double wishbone that you expect to get that a SB front end would not be able to provide.
2) i like the idea of the mid mount engine. how is that going (slow but sure by the looks of the thread) and when will you be able to road test it. based on what i see here, there are quite a few of us waiting to see what you come up with.

waiting for more pics as time affords.

1) A Mac strut as featured on a SB must be pre-set to include a constant amount of camber that does not change as the wheel travels through bump, while a double wishbone has a preset camber curve designed into the geometry that increases the negative camber as the wheel travels in bump. The advantage is that there is negative camber added as you need it, not a constant camber that increases inner tire wear. If you putz around town, you'll never really need the benefit of extra negative camber, but if you do more aggresive driving, negative camber in corners is very important to maintain a good tire contact with the road surface.

2) No progress has been made on it for the past many months, I've moved, and the garage that the project now resides in was crammed full from the move. Now it's getting more organized, and I've got power to it, so I expect to start moving on it again in the next couple of weeks. That being said, there is never a ETA on this sort of project, as one thing always leads to another, but I do hope to have the engine running in the next 3 months, with slow trials after that. I have to make sure that the motor cools properly first, then that things aren't falling apart, then that the whole thing is safe(relative here, this is an old VW!), then the speeds come up, then the packaging starts(windows back in, NACA ducts), make sure cooling is still good, then handling(spring rate, shock adjustment, swaybar adjustment and aerodynamics at high speed), then look at durability(CV joints, tranny), then make it look pretty, then, then, then.

This is a lifetime project for me, I've owned this car since I was 15, I'm 34 now, and I expect to be working on it in some form or another pretty much for the rest of my life, so I don't really get too rushed!

Next pics will be of brake system, cooling system, and fuel system complete, I'll post 'em as I get 'em!

Jason

volkdent

September 26th 2007, 20:08

Finally back on the engine, just finished the brakes Monday, so cooling and fuel are next. Should have a new wiring harness for the 034 EFI built by Christian Miller done in a couple weeks, then we'll see if she starts up. Progress reports will be coming in more often than half-year intervals now!

Jason

Panelfantastic

September 27th 2007, 17:21

"if" she starts?!?

volkdent

September 27th 2007, 17:53

"if" she starts?!?

Wow, not too much support from the "southern" crowd!!!! She'll start, one way or another. I guess the map that is set up in the IIc will get me going then I'll get it down to 034s shop and let them loose on the dyno.

I'm itchin' to get back home now, I've got the fire back in me again, and its not from the SoCal mexican food!

Jason

Scotts73SB

September 27th 2007, 22:43

I think he meant "If? she starts.. more like WHEN it starts!"

Panelfantastic

September 28th 2007, 10:08

You're right Scott. I forgot how "sensitive" Dent can be...:laugh: :p
I predict it fires at the first bump! Jason has great eye for following up the details and those 034 guys have a really strong rep... perfect combo for a worry free initial start.

Jeff-

volkdent

October 12th 2007, 19:46

Steve C

October 12th 2007, 21:43

Hi

Does your ECU have a fan control wire. If not I used a probe from http://www.daviescraig.com.au on my top radiator hose. If you go for an adjustable probe like I did, don't set the temperature too low.

Steve

volkdent

October 13th 2007, 00:21

Yep, the 034 ECU has a variable temp trigger. I'm looking online for a VDO ****pit style Temp guage too, I suppose I need to actually see it in front of me as I'm driving!

Jason

Panelfantastic

October 13th 2007, 10:28

What is the common way to hook up the thermoswitch for the radiator fans? I'm thinking at the inlet of the engine, so regardless, the fans are operating to keep the entering water at the right temp. I'll be able to set the fan start temp for whatever I want, so that's not really an issue. Jason

On the Eco, the switch was just prior the t-stat. What is the factory location? One caution, up high is good but not so high that if it ran a little low of coolant, you wouldnt know it was cooking. I went through a whole air pocket headache with mine in the factory spot because it was impossible to get bled past the t-stat.

If you havent already, look into the variable fan controllers. They usually include sender and ey'ting you need. What I thought was the shizz is the soft start and faster as you need it function. I never got around to upgrading to one. When my fans kicked on, it put a serious hurt on the electrics and made the Eco skip a beat. The soft start takes care of that.

Keep plugging away! I have to live vicariously through your project for the time being.

Jeff-

ricola

October 13th 2007, 11:28

Have a look at factory fan switch positions, they are mostly half way down the radiator. If you have it in the top hose you run the risk of it coming on as soon as the engine is up to temperature, not when you need the extra cooling from the fans. IMO having the switch lower down, this temp will start to rise when the engine is running out of cool coolant which is when you want the fans on for the extra cooling...
Rich

volkdent

October 24th 2007, 00:27

I'm having 034 build a harness for me, I think it actually uses the stock H2O temp sensor so that is taken care of, and then I can just set what temp I want it to come on at.

Pulled the motor and tranny out for the last time. Wanted to make sure everything inside the clutch was buttoned up OK, found that I had forgotten to tighten the bolts on the driver side CV!!! Double checking is a good idea apparently....

Welded up the gaping holes where I cut the frame horns off at the torsion tube. Engine back in then wait till new harness and throttle cable arrive from 034...

Jason

volkdent

October 27th 2007, 02:40

Ordered this sucker today:

Hargett Precision Throttle Pedal (http://hargettprecision.com/product_info.php?cPath=45&products_id=128)

I think it is an excellent product for the money. I was planning on just building one myself, but at the rate I've been going I figured I better not mess around!!! I think I'll be building the actual pedal surface myself though, so it's exactly what I want. Check out the shifters they have too, pretty gorgeous.

Just need to figure out how to connect this with the stock VW 1.8t throttle cable now, some sort of extension I guess...

Jason

Panelfantastic

October 27th 2007, 08:05

Is the 1.8 throttle push or pull? Can you run morse all the way with an adapter right at the throttle body?
I had to build a swing lever to convert mine from push to pull (buses are already that way but I had to reconfig most of it) and spent some time figuring out the geometry to get wot.
Are you sure you dont want to try DBW? Somebody needs to be a test case and tell me how hard it is.:devil:

Jeff-

volkdent

October 27th 2007, 13:49

It's pull, I think it will be fairly easy and adjustable, but of course it's easy to say now!!!

DBW huh, sounds great!!!;) I gave that up so long ago, nobody makes big power using DBW it seems, plus its just another detail to keep me from getting done!!! I still have the pedal and throttle body if I feel like torturing myself though...

Jason

Panelfantastic

October 27th 2007, 14:11

Rob

November 3rd 2007, 10:38

Dent,

Let us know how this works out. I'm sick of dicking around with the stock pedal trying to get WOT. Will you be using the stock brake/clutch pedal with this setup ?
Won't the original setup be 'in the way' of the new pedal ?

Panel,

Do you have any pics of the lever you created to increase the travel of the cable ?

Thanks,

Rob.

Ordered this sucker today:

Hargett Precision Throttle Pedal (http://hargettprecision.com/product_info.php?cPath=45&products_id=128)

I think it is an excellent product for the money. I was planning on just building one myself, but at the rate I've been going I figured I better not mess around!!! I think I'll be building the actual pedal surface myself though, so it's exactly what I want. Check out the shifters they have too, pretty gorgeous.

Just need to figure out how to connect this with the stock VW 1.8t throttle cable now, some sort of extension I guess...

Jason

volkdent

November 4th 2007, 21:43

Well, it didn't actually work out so well. It turns out the quality control on the pedal's manufacturer has slipped way out of control. The breaks were not perpendicular, the hole tolerances were way off, there was 3/8ths of lateral slop at the pedal top. I emailed Mark Hargett and he agreed, so I'll be returning it. I think he designed it, but then has someone manufacture it for him. Sounds like he's going to be addressing the problems pronto., so it should be a good product again in the future. I'm going to return it, but not before I get all the dimensions down, modify it, and build one myself that works for the bug application. If I want then, I can buy his pedal covers, they do look pretty sweet. I'll copy that design if someone is interested.

Rob, if you go to the brake section, the thread "Let there be brakes", you'll see the pedal cluster I'm using.

Jason

volkdent

November 4th 2007, 21:46

Ok, you got me. What is the prob with the drive by wire setup? Is it the delay? or the size of the TB? Why no big power?

I guess I just figured with it getting so common now, they would have kits developed for even doofuses like me. DBW for dummies.

Jeff-

They have stuff for 1.8t and 2.0t motors, but you have to keep everything stock, the speed sensors, ABS and all that stuff. It just makes it really hard to utilize it for custom applications like we have. I'm sure it will be there in the future, but the liability is probably just to high for the re-programmer to feel comfortable with. Remember the Audi 5000s?:lmao:

Jason

volkdent

November 19th 2007, 15:54

Waiting on a custom wiring harness now from 034. He has all the info and apparently it's just a couple days from being done. Looking back it seems like I've been waiting for wiring harnesses for half of this build!!!

Got the shifter cables back in and the brackets aligned better. Hard to believe I first hooked up the cables 3+ years ago!!! Anyway, making the brackets strong, they were just tacked up before to make sure it would actually work, and partially removable, to remove the engine the bracket needs to be partially removed.

I'm off for 5 days after tomorrow, so I hope to get the fuel system purged and the wiring done, that is if the harness turns up... fingers crossed!

Jason

Panelfantastic

November 19th 2007, 20:27

Both projects I've done that were EFI and needed custom harnesses, the harness took forever. Luckily there was always something that needed to be done in the meantime.
Keep after it!:D

Jeff-

volkdent

November 27th 2007, 19:51

They did a pretty nice job on the harness, all is covered with anti-chaffe sleeve, all the ends are OEM VW H20, except the O2 sensor, which I though was kind of weird that I have to cut and splice that on myself... It's all in now, have a bit more wiring, but...

I cranked it over a few times!!! So, that means my starter works, my bug ignition switch still works, and nothing is seized! I didn't expect anything to be seized, but it's always nice to be sure...

The oil has been added to the tranny, the tranny linkage is all finished and works pretty good, don't remember where reverse is...

Battery is in and hooked up, 4 ga wiring is done back to starter and alternator and to another fuse block that is related to all ancillaries.

Left to do before starting is a fuel system flush and fill up the tank, 2 more brackets for the radiator, fill cooling system, attach rad fans and add power, plug for second O2 bung, get and connect 2.5" silicon hose from IC to intake, finish pedal end throttle cable mount. Pretty short list compared to the years I've been working on this thing!!! That will get her running, then the list starts up again....

Jason

volkdent

November 29th 2007, 18:58

The throttle pedal is finally done. I wound up using a stock MkII golf/jetta cable housing, but to get the length I need, used mountainbike cable housing and some cable I found that looks identical to the stock golf cable. What was cool is that the little ends that fit onto the mountainbike housing actually fit into the golf cable, so I have a flawless joint. Worked out really well. Pics to come.

Jason

Panelfantastic

November 30th 2007, 00:38

Awesome!
Any idea how long before you get to fire it for the first time? Oughtta be a podcast moment! Get us some live broadcast set up! :D :cool:

Jeff-

volkdent

December 3rd 2007, 01:54

Well, all is done, but the car don't run!!! I'm not sure about getting all the coolant in, I filled the entire line from and to the engine, then I filled the expansion tank, but I'm worried I don't have anything in the engine to get it primed, and what is weird is that the expansion tank filling is not filling the system.

What was more frustrating was that the ECU is not working!!! I plugged in the custom harness, which just left a few wires for me to tackle. Those were the main power and ground, (duh), and the power for the rad fans(work fine with direct connection) and the power for the fuel pump(again works fine with direct connection) so I'm thinking there is a problem with the harness somewhere, or the ECU, either way not to easy to diagnose and really annoying consider how much I've spent so far.

I have the radiator in now pretty much finally, and I used foam to seal around it so any air entering the area is forced through rad, can't get around it.

Getting the fenders on after the dissappointment about not starting, and working on the front chin spoiler to make sure any air heading under the car is forced around it or through the radiator.

Hopefully it is something simple on the wiring, otherwise I'll be taking a trip down to Fremont with it to have it gone through.

Jason

Steve C

December 3rd 2007, 04:18

Hi

OK you need to check for spark at the plugs, if no spark check for pulse at the coil and also check for pulse at the injectors. If you have spark, give it a drink of fuel down the manifold to see if it gets a result. Can you hear the fuel pump priming?

Most ECUs earth the fans to make them work.

As far as bleeding goes, is your header tank the highest point? On WBX I drilled a very, very tiny hole in the thermostat to allow the coolant to flow to both side of the thermostat, some thermostats have a ball check valve for this purpose. I was able to fill my WBX from my header tank and any air in the system would bleed to the top the header tank, then the overflow system would rid it of any air after few warm ups and cool downs.

Steve

Panelfantastic

December 3rd 2007, 11:29

Similar prob the first fire on the Eco. There were two plugs out of the dozen that were the same, of course I crossed them. No damage and as soon as I figured it out, it fired on the first hit. Is prolly something very simple.
You've come a looong way! Don't get discouraged by this little hiccup.

I aslo struggled with getting my cooling purged and had to do just as Steve suggests to finally get it resolved.

Keep at it!

Jeff-

volkdent

December 4th 2007, 01:02

EEEEEeets Aliiiiiiiive!!!! Started her up today!!! I was so happy!!! Its been at least 5 years, and to hear this thing start up was just amazing. I actually recorded the second start, the first, which was more dramatic, I was on the phone with the tech from 034 Motorsport, and only had two hands. I went for a very short little cruise down the street, it's dark and there's no headlights, and found that there was this crazy metal on metal grinding sound from the front end. Turns out it was the inner edge of the brake rotor rubbing on the lower edge of the cup for the lower ball joint. I brought it back and ground some off of the cup, the offending area is not really a stressed area. I heard it again on the second trip, so there's a little more to do.

Big thing is that I can't find reverse!!! I'll have to pull the linkage and go through by hand to find reverse. I know I could find it before, but not with the linkage attached.

Eeeets Alive!!! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1751HpFAwk4)

I've got the radiator fans set to come on at 90 deg. The manual says 92-100 I think, for the first stage, and hotter for the second, but I've only got one stage. I can add a secondary thermostat later to fine tune. Does 90 deg sound like a good temp for the water coming out of the head, or should I let it get warmer before the fan comes on?

I also found I had really done a dummy move. Way back I had placed a black plastic plug in the end of the coolant line coming from the expansion tank so stuff wouldn't get in there. So now I'm adding water to the tank, and it's not going anywhere. I'm adding water through the main coolant lines, but nothing is happening in the expansion tank, where you are supposed to add water. Finally, I pull the hose from the tank, and NOTHING is coming out!!! I figure I have a bad tank, pull the tank, then pull the hose off the tank. Out flows the water!!! I look, and in the end of the hose is my little plug!!! Well, now that makes sense. Hooked it back up, filled her up, no troubles now. All lines get warm, output one gets hot. Radiator gets warm, fans are working just fine. I'm curious to see how she runs on the freeway without the front lip spoiler.

Now it's getting more fun!!!!

Jason

volkdent

December 4th 2007, 01:50

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399332.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399333.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399334.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399336.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399335.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399337.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399338.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399339.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399342.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399343.jpg

Jason

volkdent

December 4th 2007, 02:09

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399344.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399345.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399346.jpg

Jason

Phat73VW

December 4th 2007, 06:07

after all the updates.... seeing it start up in that vid makes all the waiting worth while!!!:driving:

Cant wait to see it finished and in person someday!!!

SCHWEEET PROJECT MAN!!!!

ricola

December 4th 2007, 07:02

That's awesome news, really happy for you! Always a relief when they fire up for the first time..

Rich

Panelfantastic

December 4th 2007, 13:43

FREAKIN' AWESOME!!

More video! Rev it, get some drive bys.

What turned out to be the glitch on getting it fired the first go round?

SUHWEEET!

Jeff-

volkdent

December 4th 2007, 15:24

Thanks guys!!! I really appreciate the support you've given me all along for this project, as crazy as it is!

Jeff, the problem was that they didn't include a wire with the harness!!! I called them up and he's like "Oh, there's no wire there?" and I'm like "ah, no" and he's says, "Well there's yur prablem!". So, just put a jumper in from IGNSW to INJSW and whamo, she turned over for a bit, I think the computer was doing something and just slowly it started.

This site is acting funny, the answers you guys gave yesterday I just saw today, but I've looked at it a couple times since then.

I'll do the hole in the thermostat if I need to, but it seems to be running OK right now.

What do you guys think the fan turn on temp should be? That sensor is just coming out of the head, so that is water head temp basically. I can adjust the turn on by individual degrees on the software, so really it's wherever we decide to put it.

Jason

GS guy

December 4th 2007, 18:33

That's great news Jason. Man you're gonn'a have one of the baddest Beetles around! Now git that thang on a skid-pad so we can get a full report on all the trick suspension! :D

But seriously, got to be a great feeling to have the car move under it's own power. That's seriously Cool!

Now where ya hid'in the radiator??? Don't see it in any of the car pics.

Sounds like you've gotten the cooling all worked out. I'd get more seat time in it before making any changes. Water temps should be around 190F???

Jeff

Panelfantastic

December 4th 2007, 18:47

I kept trying to cool my Eco down too much. It would see the cool temp and go to closed loop and fatten everything up. better try to stay close to whatever normal temps are for 1.8s. 195-205??

volkdent

December 4th 2007, 21:45

I think it's in Celsius or Farenheit, I can't remember which is the small numbers, but the ECU measures in the small numbers. In the Bentley manual it lists the big and the small numbers in parenthesis, or maybe I just have it set WAY to low. On the ECU program's virtual dashboard it has the small numbers too, and it goes into the yellow zone at like 90 and red at like 100, so I figure it uses the small number system. I feel kinda dumb for not knowing which is which, but growing up in Canada then living in the US my numbers are all mixed up anyway...

Jason

volkdent

December 4th 2007, 22:03

Now where ya hid'in the radiator??? Don't see it in any of the car pics.

With the thinness of the front plate of the A-arm suspension there is actually space between the front of the frame and the back of the spare tire well, part of the reason I wanted to switch to a different front end setup. If you look back through the pics you'll see where the rad sits. I cut the outer edges out of the body so the rad extends beyond the body slightly, although the plan was to have it all contained, I wasnt' that great with measuring. Air will be forced through it like in the new Corvettes, small opening ducting through a large radiator. Much of the air going under the car will be forced through the radiator by a plastic lower lip that runs the width of the front of the car, and about half of that width will be ducting into the radiator. Think of an air funnel that's not so obvious! I just hope it works....I'm going to leave it as a flat plane for now, and if I need more cooling at speed, I'm going to cut it in 2 places so the plane area in front of the rad area is hinged. I'll then get some small cables attached to the leading edge of that plane, kinda looking like those braces on the front lip of the COT NASCRAP cars. These cables will go through holes drilled into the spare tire well floor. From the floor up these cables will go through springs and finally have stops on them. At city speeds, the springs will keep the cables pulled up, out of the reaches of speed bumps, driveways, and rough roads. As the speeds increase, usually the road smooths out so clearance is less of an issue(in a perfect world), and the hinging plane will drop from air pressure to the stops, creating a larger funnel area, and it will trap and gather more air as it's needed. Think of a poor mans/passive version of those active intakes on the top back sides of the Veyron and Murcielago. If these are even needed, I won't know without testing, but I could also lock them out in the winter when temps are cooler and roads are poorer and then take out the locks for summer use. These are the ramblings of a crazy man, but at least they are well thought out...

Jason

GS guy

December 5th 2007, 08:17

That's pretty innovative tucking the radiator up under the front like that. It should work (in my mind anyway) ALA you've got the front side sealed to the inlet air opening and lower high-pressure creating flap under the car. I gather that's what the flanges around the perimeter of the rad are for. And leave plenty of exhaust room on the backside!

FWIW, *F-*C, generally F is about double the C number: so 100C would be close to 200F (212F). The exact calculation is F = (C x 1.8) +32, or C = 0.56 x (F - 32). That's according to my old physics book.
I've got an old TI-60 calculator that worth it's weight in gold to me - as it has all the english - metric conversions built in at the push of a button!
Jeff

Steve C

December 5th 2007, 18:00

Hi

I use a conversion tool from coade.com or conversion buddy freeware. Celsius and Centigrade are the same, don't know why they use different names.

I find the metric system very sensible i.e. 1 litre of water = 1 kg

Steve

Steve

beetle1303

December 5th 2007, 22:24

its called Celcius, after the physics guy and centigrade cos its based on a scale that water freezes at 0 and boils at 100 degrees. centi means 100 in latin

The Farenheit scale's zero is the absolute zero where something else solidifies fully if i remember correctly

Chris

volkdent

December 22nd 2007, 21:22

A little video my dad shot for me. I edited it on the windows move editor and it was pretty easy! My first real video.

Shakedown Dec. 22, 2007 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0u_6W7b3tH0)

Jason

Scotts73SB

December 23rd 2007, 00:07

Sounds and stops nice! Good work!
p.s. your dad is a good cameraman!

Panelfantastic

December 23rd 2007, 00:39

Coolness! :cool:

1303R

December 23rd 2007, 09:29

nice one! all done then. :lmao: how do the brakes feel? i realise it's not full weight yet but is it locking up the rears?

1303R

December 23rd 2007, 09:32

ah, no worries, just read your brakes thread ;)

ricola

December 23rd 2007, 12:27

volkdent

December 23rd 2007, 16:28

Nice...
One thing I've never seen any mention of: are there general guidelines as to what sort of caster to run when moving the struts to the rear?

How fast do you think it is? Looks pretty nippy on the video.. Gone round any bends a bit faster too to see how the front end is?

Yeah, uh, I really don't know. I just kind of set it up arbitrarily, I do have tons of camber adjustment, both at the top of the strut and where the strut meets the bearing carrier, and there is about 1.5" castor adjustment in the strut mount bracket, but I really don't know where it's going to end up. I'm going to take it to some race shop and have them go through it, it might even end up needing a total rear suspension redo. It's definately not ideal right now, but it works, and for around town I suspect it will be just fine, it will be when it's pushed to the limits at speed where the weaknesses will show up. I imagine it handles better then a Chevy Citation right now!

As far as quickness, it's quick! I really havn't even revved it up yet. The tuning is not done on it, so I'm kind of nervous that I'm damaging it if I run it too hard. I don't have seat belts hooked up in it right now, so it's kinda scary how quick it is. Spinning the tires doesn't take any work at all, but that may be a product of poor geometry too. The engine should have around 200hp as it sits right now, and I can't imagine it weighs more than 2000 lbs at this point, so I would imagine around a 5 second 0-60 time shouldn't be a problem. Straight line performance should be pretty crazy, but it's really handling that I'm concerned with in the big picture.

It has not seen a corner at speed, I don't want to fly out the open door!!! I'll get the door on and the seatbelts in before I do any cornering, but I'm not optimistic at this point, aligment and general geometry needs some attention before I get serious about it's cornering ability. It's only run up and down my street here, and the next big trip will be on the back of a trailer to 034 Motorsport to have the engine tuned. Then I can run it without fear of doing any motor damage.

Jason

Rob

December 24th 2007, 20:01

Man, that's awesome. Well done.

Always cool to see a project coming to life !

Must be a great feeling to drive it after so much work has gone into it !

Rob.

volkdent

December 30th 2007, 22:15

Thanks Rob, still working out the millions of niggles. Today I found out the body moves around alot, enough that a little dent is appearing where the passengers strut mount is banging against the body. Next up it will be making stiffening mounts that tie the body to the rear superstructure.

This is my latest creation, maybe I should be working harder on the bug!

Bad Dub Racing (http://youtube.com/watch?v=VEUPxTw11hk)

Jason

volkdent

January 23rd 2008, 02:05

Some brackets I made with the help of my Christmas present from my dad, a lathe. The back end of the bug was so wobbly that it was banging on the strut mounts enough to dent the body.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/409317.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/409316.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/409899.jpg

Jason

volkdent

February 22nd 2008, 18:03

She's been out for a few runs now. I don't have a water temp guage, and the laptop I use has bad batteries, so I can't use the virtual dash to watch them, but the fans don't come on unless I'm stopped for awhile regardless, so that sounds about right!

It's a little twitchy at at any speed, not unstable, just twitchy. I think it's the almost bald 255/40/18s out back tramlining, so I'll put the new 235/45/17 Pirelli PZeroNero's on and we'll see if that feels better. I don't know how fast I'm going, the speedo get's pegged, but I do know that I'm passing people on the freeway very quickly, I'm thinking 80 at least, maybe faster. It corners great, none of the push it had as a BJ front end. I did have one incident on an inclined cloverleaf off/on ramp as I neared the end of it and was accelerating to merge there was some rough road repair and the front kind of jumped sideways then hooked up again, probably the compression settings on the shocks and maybe even the A-arm bushings are a little tight still. Regardless, it hooks up. I did get the back end sliding out a little on a fast braking then hard hard right turn offramp, but that is to be expected under those conditions with a mid-engine car.

The brakes aren't to my liking yet, too much pedal pressure and not enough bite generally, especially from the front. I think the pads may be part of the problem, but I'm sure one of the master cylinders will have to be replaced to reduce rear braking forces or conversely increase the front braking force, the rears are still the ones that want to lock up first. Hopefully that will give me a little bit more pedal at the same time. I talked to a Wilwood tech, and he gave me suspicious info, first saying one thing then the opposite, I'm really not sure how well the guys understand the fluid physics of what they are "teching" with, but it sounds like I need to get a smaller front MC.

Got the static alignment done, and it came out amazingly well. Apparently my fabrication skills are not terrible, as the specs came out better than new factory alignment. It will need to be looked at from a dynamic geometry standpoint in April at Huffaker Engineering at Infineon, he's going to pull the springs and look at toe changes during travel as well as camber changes. I think it will require a rear suspension redu, but we'll have to wait and see.

Jason

volkdent

March 6th 2008, 14:47

Finally have a dyno appointment at 034 Motorsport (http://www.034motorsport.com/) on March 17, so I can finally rest easy getting on the gas hard. Spoke with Javad who is the owner at Laguna Seca this last weekend. We were there with the Audi Club (http://gotbluemilk.com/web080301/c3/imagepages/image10.html) and had an amazing time. He thinks things will go smoothly and that we should be done tuning in a couple of hours, but I'll be leaving it there for the week so they can be sure it's cold starting well.

Having a little issue with the battery dying, I have some sort of drain somewhere, but don't know where it is yet. It might be related to the resisitor in the 12-6 Volt adapter for the windshield wipers, I'll have to investigate...

Jason

Panelfantastic

March 6th 2008, 15:53

Cool!

Speaking of Audis, I recently added one to the stable...

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267/1824562/18027345/306643140.jpg

Jeff-

Timmy_Barns

March 6th 2008, 17:27

Oh, perdy Audi. There was one like that for sale here in Michigan with the same wheels and color.

volkdent

March 25th 2008, 15:58

Those BBSs look great Jeff!!! That's your Mini too? Those things track very well, throw some R compounds on there and they are hard to catch. Is that the 180hp or 225hp TT?

The dynoing is done, apparently I've got about 165 at the wheels, so about 190 is what he is telling me, but tons of torque, so that's sounds very good for now. He took longer than expected, so I wasn't able to pick up her up last Friday, will have to pick her up this Friday after work. It's 2.5 hours each way, so that's not really a weekday thing. If I can get her sooner I will.

I'll get a printout from the dyno results that I'll post here, but apparently it runs VERY well, and the compression tests told them the stated 15k miles on the motor was probably correct.

On a sad note, doing one of my pre-dyno trip shakedowns, I took a curb at the wrong angle and totally tweaked my radiator, it's not leaking, but it crushed one of the fans on the back side and it will definately need to be redone down the road. I might go a little wider if I can fit it, with more HP in the future I'll need more cooling.

Jason

Panelfantastic

March 25th 2008, 19:24

That's the wifes mini. Has ridiculous torque just off throttle and goes like stink... but the ride! The ride is the absolute worst bone-jarring thing I've ever ridden in. She wanted one forever and absolutely loves that thing! BTW, you can double the base price with add-ons :bawling: .

It's a 225hp. Bone stock except for the 19" wheels. I don't have a lot of mod plans, chip, exhaust, airbox.

I went to the dyno day down in GA. 165 would have put you well above quite a few "built" type 1s. :cool:

How big of a rad can you fit? I've got a leftover.

Jeff-

volkdent

March 26th 2008, 11:27

Ah, that's why they go so well, race suspension!!!

The TT looks awesome, rear sway bars help a lot in those too.

I can't wait to drive it back up here. The reliability is what I love, apparently it's tuned so I can't do any damage to it!!!

Then new radiator will be the same general shape as the one I have now, I still don't want to cut into the body under the hood, but thank you for the offer. I might have one made that is wider than the one I have now, but the same height.

Jason

volkdent

March 29th 2008, 13:54

Picked her up last night, of course it was the first time in weeks that it rained, so that sucked.

Scary is the world I'd use for it. Not just the power, but the rear suspension too. There is a LOT of torque, I was in second, hit the gas and I was spinning, back end sliding sideways. It was wet, but but I can't even do that in my M3! So tons of torque and power. The engine is sitting right behind me, so even with earplugs in, that turbo was really working. I was going over 100 easily, but it cruised really nicely at 85. At the faster speeds it was scary, the rear suspension is REALLY not working well. I'm going to look at putting some spacers under the steering rack back there to maybe give me some toe in bump over what I'm sure is toe-out bump right now. That's what is scary, you hit a bump in a corner and the whole rear end feels like it shifts sideways. The redline is 7200 rpm, and I didn't even get close to that at 100, so I don't know how fact it goes on the top end. Javad the tuner said he noticed some clutch slippage, but I have to say all I notice was wheel slippage.

The shifter works great, until it doesn't work well. I can't explain it, but it shifts great most of the time, then rarely its a struggle to get in gear. Don't know what's going on with that.

Temp was a steady 85 degrees, even with just the 2 fans running. They had set the thermostat for 80, so first the first leg of my trip the fans came on and stayed on, kinda worried me. The ECU was in demo mode too, and I didn't realize it, so I couldn't figure out why the temps were running 95 and the RPMs were staying constant!!!

I'm going to lay low for awhile now, between the 3 hours of tuning, 1 hour of testing and cleanup, and new coils and firmware for the ECU, it was over $1k, so I need to fill my piggybank up again!

Jason

hugovw1976

March 29th 2008, 15:22

ricola

March 30th 2008, 11:18

Sorry for the OT! I'm in the middle of buying a Mini Cooper S as my new daily, great to have the TLC inclusive servicing for 5 years, hopefully now I'll be able to concentrate on the bug and not get so distracted by kit car daily drivers!
Rich

Simon

April 12th 2008, 05:25

Hi Jason,

Great project!
It's great to see such an amount of dedication and time put into a car!
Hope you can get all the little kinks worked out soon!

Concerning your rear suspension issues:
Is it only the toe-out on bump that is causing the issues?
Mounting the steering rack a little higher (so the tie-rods point down) might help a little.

Is the virtual hinge-line between the front and rear mounts of the lower A-arm parallel to the car?

What kind of struts do you use in the rear?
Are they actually front struts?
Aren't you running out of droop travel?

Simon

volkdent

April 13th 2008, 22:54

Hi Simon,

Concerning your rear suspension issues:
Is it only the toe-out on bump that is causing the issues?
Mounting the steering rack a little higher (so the tie-rods point down) might help a little.

I'm not totally sure, I have it set for 1/16 toe in static, and I would doubt I'd have such a twitchy rear end if I didn't. Havn't pulled the springs and run it through total travel yet, but I'll bet you money I've got toe change problems. I actually looked at mounting the rack higher, but I ran into a bunch of little issues, one is that the bolts are too short for the rack and are embedded into the K-member. Another is my steering lockout would have to be refabricated. I think its the wrong geometry entirely so I'm not going to waste my time on it. I'll just redesign it properly and not worry about trying to make a no-win situation better.

Is the virtual hinge-line between the front and rear mounts of the lower A-arm parallel to the car?

No, the fronts are on there own, parallel to each other, but the rears are backwards, the 'hinge-line' axis' intersect in FRONT of the car (/\) , while they should be intersecting at a point somewhere beyond the REAR (\/) as far as I know. I don't know exactly what converging pivot axis' do, but I know mine is the opposite of what I see everywhere. I was aware of this little fact before I started, but I wanted to get the thing running before I modified too many things at once.

What kind of struts do you use in the rear?

KW Variant III

Are they actually front struts?

Yes

Aren't you running out of droop travel?

I might be. I might have to move the strut plate down a bit to get more droop. Just didn't want to have too little bump travel when I was getting it all together. I wanted to make sure I could run it low enough.

If things work out well, I'm hoping to use the front control arm mount as the rear mount, and create a new front mount directly in front of the rear wheels. I might be able to use the alloy casting off the end of a 944 torsion housing, it has a solid rubber mount with a intergral core of aluminum. I might be able to bolt this onto the end of the torsion housing, thread the core, screw in a heim, then attach a custom built arm that connects to a second arm running from the K-member to the lower ball joint of the strut. Essentially a large A-arm with the pivots creating a V towards the back of the car, then adjust the tie-rod length and pivot points accordingly, maybe even swap the struts side to side if it is an advantage for toe changes during travel. I don't have the expertise to do this myself, I wish I did, but I'm planning on using the services of Joe Huffaker to guide me.

Jason

volkdent

April 13th 2008, 22:59

Exelent to hear your car it's running, I hope you can solve the rear suspension problem.

Do you try with Suspension Analizer software? you have 10 day's trial and for my car it's very helpful. You can calculate the position and length of the arms for best numbers for toe in.

http://www.performancetrends.com/SuspAnzr.htm

Hi Hugo! Glad to see you are making progress on your ride too!

I think that program might be very helpful, I just don't trust my ability to see the big picture. While that program might tell you it will work, I think more knowledge will give me better results. I should probably trust myself more on these things, but I have very high goals for the way my car will handle when I'm done, and I want to do everything I can to make sure the road from here to there is as short and as straight as possible. I just wish the toll wasn't so expensive!!!

Keep us updated on your progress!

Jason

volkdent

April 21st 2008, 21:33

A friend and I had a little fun last night. He has an '07 Suby STi with total intake and exhaust mods and chip retuning. We did some drag racing, rolling starts, and freeway speed runs. Surprisingly, we were neck and neck! He slowed after we pass 90mph, where I'm sure he would be faster, but in everything else he could not leave me. I left him quickly at 90 and I'm guessing I hit at least 110. The whole reason we got on the freeway is to see how fast I was, but he doesn't like breakin' the law! What surprised me the most was breaking the tires loose after shifting into second. I didnt drop the clutch, already in second, and just the power broke the tires loose! Just goes to show what light weight and power can do...

Jason

DORIGTT

April 21st 2008, 22:18

Power goooood!

Corruption on the way!

volkdent

May 6th 2008, 17:13

Took a trip over to Huffaker Engineering at Infineon yesterday. Joe Jr. is an amazing guy, I'm looking forward to working with him. He didn't have time to get into specifics, just put the car on the lift and scratched his head a bit and agreed with my diagnosis of off-kilter rear geometry and he agreed that the sensation I feel is probably bump toe-out. To keep me busy he helped me diagnose my brake bias issues, so I've ordered a 1-1/8 in MC to replace the 7/8 rear MC so I decrease the rear brake bias and also increase pedal travel. I'm going to take a picture of the 944T torsion beam cover and send it to him, it may play a usefull roll in the rear suspension redu, but I may end up with a full double-wishbone rear suspension! Motor is still running strong, but I think I hear a little detonation in 5th under full throttle, so I'm not too happy about that, and cold running is still an issue. Some ECU adjustments should take care of those issues.

On my trip I had an "event". The frame horn sits about 2" off the ground, too low, but thats where the springs settled to. It's fine with me in it, but my wife wanted to go too, so it was a little lower. We took the scenic route, big mistake. The road was rough and annoying, but the rear problem developed when I find myself staring down a dead possum in the middle of the road. I don't mean fresh dead either, but not squished low enough to fit under the car... Bam, then the smell of rotting flesh, nasty. The smell subsided replaced with the sweet smell of antifreeze.... After surviving the first hit, the radiator couldn't handle this hit and started to leak. Fortunately I can look in the back seat and see the coolant expansion tank, and I could watch it slowly drain. Got to a gas station, filled it up, and was able to get back home. By the time I arrived, it had somehow stopped leaking, and is still sealed!!! I think the orange antifreeze I have must have some sealing properties...

Still no dyno sheet...:mad:

Jason

volkdent

June 16th 2008, 02:45

I've actually hit the radiator again since the last time, and again it's sealed itself, but I've lifted the car 1/2" and I think I'm going to have to have a slightly shorter rad made and a steel cage to protect it.

It was running a little hot for awhile, just couldn't seem to cool down, fans ran a lot, then I realized I had been bleeding the air from the front off the system wrong. I had been doing it while the car was running and under pressure, but it just mixed the air around. All I had to do is open the bleed valve after the car had set for awhile-gravity did the work and pushed the air out. Haven't had trouble since, but I'm waiting for a hot California day to really feel good about it.

On the bittersweet front, I got a ticket yesterday in her, 86 in a 65, so while I didn't like the ticket, getting one at a speed slower than I had been going makes me proud to have done it in my bug!!! BTW, the freeway was clear, I saw the car from a mile away, just didn't think it was a CHP!!

Jason

speedy

June 28th 2008, 19:11

hi jason/ jeff.
glad to hear things are going well in your part of the world , i have my beetle on the road at the moment and am fitting the new fuel injection next week , i have had to go to 560cc injectors on boost to stop the detonating and believe me it goes like stink , i am of to bugjam on the 18 july with the bug and ghia so helen is putting the ghia down the track and i am doing the bug :D , we are looking at a new house at the moment so the car spending may come to an abrupt halt in the not to distant future . Hope Pam and Michele are well.
cheers jon

Phat73VW

June 29th 2008, 02:36

I saw the car from a mile away, just didn't think it was a CHP!!

Jason

ha ha ha I feel ya on that one bro, been there dont that ALOT!!! :lmao: I bet the cop couldnt beleive the car could do that kind of speed. Oh yeah ya got any new pics of the beast? I cant wait to see it in person. I am almost done with my new rebuild but it isnt even close to the drivetrain you have going on! :o

volkdent

June 29th 2008, 04:02

We DEFINATELY need pics/video of the bug and the ghia at the track!!! Didn't you say you needed to get an HD video camera?;) Helen's a lead foot you know...

Good luck on the injector install, how 'bout some more pic updates? Where is your thread anyway!!!

Jason

Panelfantastic

June 29th 2008, 20:43

...And how about some pics of the other event?!? :cool:

Jeff-

volkdent

August 6th 2008, 20:08

I ordered a new radiator yesterday. The old one had suffered too much at the hands of vicious pavement, and finally the leaking would not self repair. The new one will be 3" wider and about 1" shorter, so I'll gain and inch of clearance. I'll also be fabricating a sort of cage to protect it from future damage and finally get on to making the duct system to feed it air, although so far airflow hasn't seemed to be an issue.

Jason

Panelfantastic

August 8th 2008, 09:03

although so far airflow hasn't seemed to be an issue.

Jason

This is very good. :cool:

volkdent

August 8th 2008, 11:57

This is very good. :cool:

Yep, after your tales of temperature, I was a little worried. I have to tell you though, I suspect an air bubble is the culprit in more situations that airflow or water volume or radiator size. I had originally bled the air with the car just sitting. After I hit a few things, I was losing coolant rapidly so I was adding on the fly and BLEEDING on the fly, engine running. Bubbles were all over the system. Once I just let it sit there for a bit then bled it, no troubles at all. I couldn't keep the temps right before I bled it properly, it was always running a little hot, but not too hot, once the bubble were gone, perfection!

I just hope the new one will be able to cope with 300hp...

Jason

Scotts73SB

August 9th 2008, 22:57

Gotta stop hittin things!

volkdent

June 2nd 2009, 20:33

OK, long time no update!!!

Well, the new radiator is TOTALLY out of harms way, so I'm assured of no further issues there. I would seriously wreck the under belly of the nose and the frame head before the radiator would be affected.

Cooling was a little bit of an issue, as the new rad is not in airflow at all. I needed to cut one of the rad hoses a little more than I did so it made an odd angle and a high spot in the system that allowed air to be trapped there, but by manually milking the air to the bleed spot I think I got most of it out.

Still needed some airflow though, so before Bugorama(the night before in fact) I made an ABS scoop by heating and forming. It's quite lightweight and doesn't even do a particularily good job of forcing air through the rad, but it works SOOO well!!! The fans wouldn't come on at all unless I sat idleing for quite awhile. I will probably build another lightweight one like this that is the standard scoop making it completely sealed to force air ONLY through the rad, while the one I'm working on with the M3 lip would be more track only as it's lower and a higher risk of being ripped off because it's much more stiff.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l44/humblewolf/events/bugorama%2063/IMG_0568.jpg~original

The track runs at Bugorama went fine. The best time as shot by Humble(Will) was 13.5, but the biggest problem I was having was the shifter not being smooth due to issues with the Porsche shifter not really having a good gate setup. I'll work on that. The other problem was my little stock 1.8t intercooler sitting behind my seat. It gets no air flow, so by the end of the track it was totally heat soaked.

On Monday coming up I have an appointment at 034 Motorsport to have the intercooler plumbing squared away. I already have the intercooler and I'll fab up the mounts this weekend. Once that's squared away I can start working on the quarter window scoop that will deliver air to the intercooler plenum, then out the stock rear window ducts.

Jason

Humble

June 3rd 2009, 01:48

Can't wait to see pics! 034 does outstanding work So i'm curious to see what they do for you

petevw

June 3rd 2009, 02:29

That's sound and looks like tons of fun. 1.8T's are great little engines. Curious to see the new intercooler setup.

Pete

zeroaxe

June 4th 2009, 12:04

Volkdent,

Nice to see that this project is still alive and that you are making such good progress. Time flies by(since your last post) doesnt it eh? Plus, I didnt know that GErmanLook is online again(because obviosly I still had Germanlook.com in my bookmarks :o )

volkdent

June 9th 2009, 00:19

The day was spent at 034 Motorsport. Mike did a bang up job getting the plumbing done for the turbo. I got the intercooler mounted where I think it will work out really well. You can see I cut out the space behind the IC where the hot air will exit through the stock grill. Cutting those out also gives me access to that compartment to get the LEDs installed for my 3rd brake light. There is more lag now as the path is longer and the volume larger, but the power just keeps coming. On one end the alumunim is hot, and on the outlet side it's totally cold! When the GT28RS is installed, it will be a necessity, so I might as well get used to a little more lag now.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/562347.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/562348.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/562349.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/562350.jpg

Jason

evilC

June 9th 2009, 06:49

Panelfantastic

June 9th 2009, 12:12

I do hope you plan to beat on this thing for a while before any major renovations ... :eekno: I wanna hear about some street exploits :D .

Jeff-

kuleinc

June 9th 2009, 13:15

So when willyou be offering a whole conversion swap kit? :lmao: That is so wicked... I was looking to do the same thing, but with a TDi motor, but money, little to no fab skills, and school put an end to that right quick. :rolleyes:

volkdent

June 9th 2009, 23:35

Hi Jason,

A very impressive installation!

One query - Will the intercooler actually vent through the rear grilles under the rear window? I thought this was a high pressure area that under normal circumstances is the cold air inlet for the carb(s). I assume that you will be taking the cold air feed to the intercooler from the side windows? If that is so the air pressure/air flow is not too good and may not overcome the high pressure under the rear window.

Clive

Clive, I'm glad you brought that up. How sure are you that that idea is true? If you're 100% I'm gunna have to change my thinking, I used to think the same thing. But the more I understand about aerodynamics, the less I think this is likely.

When I was down at 034 I explained my idea of the ducting, strictly the pathway, not mentioning high and low pressure areas. The tech who worked on my car, Mike, mentioned he thought NACA ducts in the side windows ducting into a plenum then out the vents would work great, said NACA ducts flow serious air. Then Javad, the owner, said he thought scoops would be a better bet, really trap air and force it through. Finally, Christian (Miller, KONI Challenge Series points leader) said he thought scoops and make sure that the exit duct to the rear vents was very well sealed, as he figured the vacuum created in that location was actually going to be pulling more air through the intercooler than the pressure from the scoops.

All of these guys are SERIOUSLY into motorsports, Javad has been racing and setting up racing cars for years, and Christian is a professional racecar driver with a lot of R&D experience. ALL of them had the same idea as I did regarding high and low pressure areas and airflow in general. We could all be totally wrong, so I'm going to have to do some R&D of my own, build the setup in cardboard then put little red yarn pieces on the ducts and see which way they blow.

When I think about the stock idea of those ducts, I actually think they may be there precisely to pull the hot air out of the engine comparment! Regarding the NACA ducts, I spoke with a drag racer at Bugorama a few years ago, and he had actually tested the pressure from the duct placement in the quarter windows, and he said he was seeing 5psi!!! I don't know, I hope the old idea isn't true, but if it is I certainly stand corrected. My little test should let me know if it'll work or not.

Jason

volkdent

June 9th 2009, 23:39

I do hope you plan to beat on this thing for a while before any major renovations ... :eekno: I wanna hear about some street exploits :D .

Jeff-

What are you talking about, all I DO is beat this thing!!! How do you think I break stuff?!!!!

Jason

evilC

June 10th 2009, 05:42

Hi Jason,

I'm not at all sure about the high/low pressure areas but this was my logic:
The rear vents are the only visible inlet for cold air to the normal single carb? The flutings behind the grille imply (to me)an airflow into the engine bay whilst protecting from rain penetration. I would expect the shape of the beetle body to create a laminar airflow over the rear window. This was I understand Dr Porsche's original intent to create a tear drop shape. If he had required a solid negative pressure area behind the rear window then he would have created a kamm tail. In general all the aerodynamic aids I have seen for beetles do take advantage of the laminar flow by placing wings etc hung out of the back including integral intercoolers. If there was a low pressure area at the base of the rear window then I would have expected a roof lip spoiler above the window to enhance it.

With regard to the side scoops, I agree that they are in the logical location but I would have expected the airflow to be reasonably turbulent not least because of the flow from the edge of the front screen. The shortness of the beetle body would, I would have thought, prevented the airflow becoming laminar again to create a positive pressure. The half moon vents in the rear quarters of a beetle body are to demist the rear screen, in other cars they are extract vents. If they are inlet vents (as would be supposed with +ve pressure at that point) then where is the air extracted from within the car?
I have no proof that any of those thoughts of mine are correct and I would be pleased for someone to correct me.

Clive

PS If my suppositions are correct then the air will flow through your intercooler but in the opposite direction???!!!

volkdent

June 10th 2009, 13:02

Well I'm glad you are as unclear as I am, it's the bug shape that puts a real clink in the deal. If it had a flat roof or this or that, it might be more predictable, but you are absolutely right, it might flow backwards!!! I'll have to run some tests and I'll post my results!!!

Jason

kuleinc

June 10th 2009, 19:05

I'm very interested in how this goes. Those vents behind the rear windows on the side are quite a mystery, I would love to know definitively if they flow in or out.

evilC

June 11th 2009, 07:08

If all the UK contributors clubbed together we could get a bug in the wind tunnel at MIRA (Motor Industry Research Association) that's no more than 3 miles from here. From that we could get all the data we need but unless we have an aerodynamicist on board I doubt whether we could interpret the data. Ho Hum!

Clive

volkdent

January 1st 2010, 23:06

Finally got something going with the exhaust, and it actually turned out pretty good. It's all tacked up, and then I'll take it to a welding shop and have it either stainless MIGed or TIGed, not sure which will be a better option. I had a brainfart and ended up overtightening the V-band clamp, so after it's welded I'll have to get a new one as the nut gaulled...

Jason

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/632786.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/632785.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/632788.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/632787.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/633485.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/633486.jpg