78 and Fuel Injected, what do I do?

[LOAF]

I have a 78 vert which I am in the process of restoring and modding.. I have a question that I would like some opinions on.. My vert has a stock 1600 with fuel injection and ACU.. As far as modding and being able to pass KIA's on the highway which way should I go.. I live in NJ so I am not to sure what DMV problems I will encounter..
My first inclination was to do a mild upgrade for reliability.. Change rocker arms, springs, retainers, valve guides, head redone- maybe ported ect.... while keeping original block..
second was to do a motor swap...and start out with some sort of turnkey.. 1.7,1.9 or 2.0 liter with dual carbs ect.. So Cal style engine.. maybe put a porche fan and shroud.. but this starting to get expensive..
Lastly, if possible forced induction for my stock block... I have seen some turbo kits for 1600..
I don't know to many shops in NJ, but if I can stroke or bore my F/I block to gain HP that would also work..
I don't know the limitations of the F/I system, except for that fact that I works off some sort of vaccum and that more air = more fuel and eventually more power, I hope..
I would like to swap out engine but then I don't know what problems I will encounter with my current wiring harness and auxillary emmission items such as charcoal canister, EGR stuff..
I would appreciate any help on the matter from anyone, my limited experience is with the B16A family of honda motors but since I was a younger lad I loved my old mans vw's (vans, type 3, bugs). Sure wish I paid more attention back then?

[kdanie]

Loaf,
You need to check with your DMV and see what the legal problmems are before you do anything or your car may get impounded when they catch you.
I don't know what the limitations of the stock FI are but I would guess you could build a mild 1641cc and it would run ok. Basic performance mods would work fine. Try mildly ported heads with slightly larger valves, a good 1 3/8" merged header, mild cam and 1.25-1 ratio rockers. Maybe increase the compression to 8-1 or 8.5-1. Wouldn't cost too much and will get you decent performance and will appear stock (except the exhaust).
If you can legally get rid of your FI and run carbs the sky is the limit. You can take your type 1 to 2.3L but it will really cost a bundle.
A type 4 swap is a good way to go if you can do it legally. The cost will be higher than modifying your existing engine.
ken

[zydeco]

If NJ is strict about the visual inspection, then you're sortof stuck. The '78 has a cat right? If so, toss out the merged header idea and maybe the cam/ration rockers. Head work may help a little, same with mild displacement increase. Or you could look into getting a custom motor smog certified ala California's CARB. That'd probably be alot of headaches and paperwork but may well be worth it if you want serious grunt. Another thing I just thought of would be to take a T4 motor out of a similar year car (baywindow bus) and modify the cooling system (DTM), exhaust (you'd be breaking new ground adapting a cat equipped bus exhaust to your 'vert), etc. but the engine swap *should* be completely smog legal and with an extra 40 to 50 ponies to boot!

If NJ is only concerned about the test numbers, you could easily build a healthy T1 or T4 with fuel injection that should pass without problems - heck maybe even a carbed engine. FI will be a higher investment (time and/or money) and you may still have to run a cat (usually the main thing they look for even if they don't do a strict visual inspection).

[Oliver Knuf]

We've got the same problems with the newer beetles in Germany, even the latest 2001 models are tune-able, without affecting the gasses.
A real easy way is to leave the valve train stock and just do a bore up to 90,5mm (1776cc's) with slight modification to the heads. 3-angle valve job, a bit porting at the seats and a c/r of approx. 8.0:1 and a reworked combustion chamber will help your engine to around 65-70HP, but you'll run in problems with your restrictive exhaust system. Ix you have the original system, take a look on the new mex system. Maybe there is something for you.

[LOAF]

Oliver, thanks for the info..
Seems I need to take a walk down to DMN and ask the hard questions.. I was tending to lean toward your suggestion.. I don't think that I should have a problem with swapping out exhaust.. I was thinking higher flowing Heater boxes, with a good header and hi-flow exhaust..but nothing that will sound like a honda on crack.. Any good suggestions.. Are the borla's any good for this type of applications
Alex "Loaf"

[LOAF]

I got some info online about the NJ test procedures, I am also in the process of trying to speak with someone, "wish me luck" on the matter of engine swapping.. I have had to renew a couple of my vehicles already and the test is pretty tough. From what I remember they did a visual of exhaust, I gues to look for cracks in piping, check a bunch of safety stuff, then put it on the dyno to check the gases.. Anyone have experience with this sort of testing on their bugs or VW and have success passing???
I figure if I can do swap getting the engine to run within allowable parameters should be to hard.. Considering that I am only looking for a mildly tuned engine which ever way I go..

Here is a paragram from there webpage::

Inspection program details

To meet state and federal safety standards, MVS tests steering, suspension, horn, wipers, window glazing, lights, direction signals, red rear lights, mirrors, brakes and hazard signals and the catalytic converter.

To meet federal Clean Air Act standards MVS inspects the vehicle's emissions by a licensed inspector.

The test uses a dynamometer that allows the car to accelerate and the tires to spin without the vehicle actually moving. The inspector than tests the emissions with a probe as s/he accelerates the engine to 15 mph. A computer analyzes the emissions to reflect the car's make and model.

Thanks
Loaf

[LOAF]

Just got off the phone with one of DMV's inspection station personnel. He stated that the engine must be same type ie Type 1-1600 and of that same year or newer... Also must maintain same emmision components.. He did say that going from FI to Carbs shouldn't be a problem but must maintain emmisions components and pass the emmisions test, shown above..
Now this brings up some more questions.. If I purchase one of those zero miles turnkey that are stroked or bored to lets say 1700 or 1900 cc how to I know that It was built in the same year or newer.. and can I put the respective emmisions stuff back on with out a problem.. What parts will this constitute.. Especially If I want to put dual carbs.. BY the way, I assume I need to replace the head and some other items in order to do this, Any info on this conversion if I am trying to maintain my original block..
Please Help
Alex "Loaf"

[zydeco]

Hey LOAF,
Of course the state is gonna give you thier easiest answer - "It has to be stock motor with no mods, blah blah blah". In my area (Norhtern VA) we have the rolling road emissions test as well and if you ask, they'll tell you everything has to be bone stock. However, they never actually have to document any of the visual inspection, the Dept. of Motor Vehicles only wants to see the actual numbers. The same may go for NJ so you should ask around any of the classic car crowd (VW, Chevy, etc.). Maybe jump on the Shoptalk Forums.com (http://www.shoptalkforums.com) and post to see if any from NJ has gotten through emissions inspections and see what they say.

Brian

[LOAF]

zydeco

Thanks for the suggestion, that one slipped by be...
I'll go ahead and post with the forum and see what they say..
Thanks