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#1
January 25th 2004, 19:03
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Don't forget about the labor costs of having your case and heads machined for the larger cylinders and special tools for engine assembly.
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car. 1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM...  2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed  www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe 
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#4
January 25th 2004, 19:08
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Quote:
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#5
January 25th 2004, 19:13
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The stock crank is forged, because when Ferdinand was designing the engine they found that the cast cranks had the fault of snapping after spirited use. Therefore, since you said you want to use your car for Auto-X, I would stay away from the cast crank and buy a forged. From what I hear, CB Performance now makes 76mm forged cranks for the same cost as a 69mm. So for maximum displacement on a budget that is what I would go with.
fast70
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#6
January 25th 2004, 19:19
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I think the stock crank is forged. The scat cast crank is supposed to be good for 5,500 rpm and 125hp.
__________________
I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car. 1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM... 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe
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#7
January 25th 2004, 19:20
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What is the biggest stroke crank you can run without clearancing the case???
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car. 1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM... 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe
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#9
January 25th 2004, 22:30
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The biggest without clearancing is 76mm although a 78 will fit with just minor clearancing. The stock crank is forged. To be safe, if you are comming anywhere near the HP threshold number, I would go with forged. It is cheap insurance. I have a friend who made the mistake of buying a cast crank and has had to have the crank turned down twice with only a couple thousand miles on the motor. So even though it is not that expensive to have turned:
1. It weakens the crank even farther 2. By the time the cost of the crank and cutting are added you have exceeded the cost of a forged crank. 3. Each time they need to be cut, the motor has to be torn down and new oversize bearings bought. So factor in the cost of a couple of sets of bearings. 4. You are taking unneccessary chances and stretching the rubber band to save a few bucks. fast70
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#10
January 25th 2004, 22:36
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You can run up to a 76 crank without doing anything to the case, but the rods will need a little clearancing where the bolts are...or is that a 74???....
 ... i know a 74 will fit for sure....  I would stay away form a cast crank like the plauge, but that's my opinion. Its just extra insurance knowing the heart of your well balanced engine wont snap if you wanted to have a little fun. Maybe wait a while till you can get a Scat Volkstroker 2 kits, (that cast crank is the volkstroker 3 kit) These are more expensive but, well, in the end you have a more reliable crank....you got what you paid for. For the VS 2 kit and full flow parts and pushrods, etc, etc...go to aircooled.net They have a full-flow kit, with modified and blue-printed pump and everything you need for I think $130. Also, if you get your carbs here, they help you set them up with the right jets and stuff. Check it out.... I wanst aware that CBP was selling their 76 cranks for the same price as a 69....i'll have to check that out...I havent bought my new crank yet soo....
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=EuroLook71= 71' Super Beetle 1.6L DP - Kadrons, stock heads P&P by me 
Last edited by Eurolook71; January 25th 2004 at 22:43.
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