|
|
|
|
#2
January 26th 2004, 00:03
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Weird, i just searched "crank" and it was in one of the lists  I guess i did see the $150 one, but wasent to sure on it as its not stated as a cast or forged, and its welded. 
|
|
#3
January 26th 2004, 00:09
|
|||
|
|||
|
Oh, btw i was looking on CB's site and they do in house machineing, and they are a little cheaper (15 bucks cheaper) on case boring compaired to Rimco.
Any one have a say on there work? and turn around time? I think i will send my case to them as i should be buying other stuf from them any how, maybe i can save on shipping if they can ship more at once? Also, would it be best to pick up a set of there Uni-Tech Con/rods or have my stock rods reworked? If i could save money here, that would help a bit. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1179
|
|
#6
January 26th 2004, 01:27
|
|||
|
|||
|
I'm not familiar with the Uni-techs, but I know some refurb stock rods are a proven formula, they work well...
A set of after market rods that are said to be great quality, SCAT I and H beam series rods. The I-beams can be had for I thik its $150, over at aircooled.net, the H-beam are more expensive...can remember the price. Just throwing Ideas at ya....I'm sure you are certain on the 1914 combo you spoke of before, and one that would be reliable, and still a bit fun.... keep your compression rate on the light end, i wouldnt go higher than 8.5:1. And you would want to run high octane gas of course. Thats not saying you CANT go over 8.5:1, but the higher you go, the hotter your heads get, the more revs you turn, and over all more wear you put on the entire engine. but in time it wont last long....that compared to a lower CR. Bigger valves will help greatly, the 40X35.5s would be a great choice, and with a dremel tool, you could lightly de-purr the ports (and match them to your manifolds), and give it a mild polish too...and save yourself hundreds. I havent flycut heads before, so I cant say much their, but there are shops around that could give you a 3-angle valve job, flycut (this gets you to the desired CR), and bored out for 94s, for less than $200-300....but those prices are just what I'm GUESSING that would all cost!! Jezz, I'm rambling on and on.... Hope this helps!  ever need more help, e-mail me! eurolook71@hotmail.com
__________________
=EuroLook71= 71' Super Beetle 1.6L DP - Kadrons, stock heads P&P by me
|
|
#7
January 28th 2004, 02:35
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have been thinking a little and looking around. like you guys said, doing a 76mm crank would be better for torq.. and i want torq for sure!
If i was to get a 76mm crank (same price as the 69mm) what other things will i need to modify to allow a different stroke? im talking ANY clearancing. will i need to change the specs of the rods, pistons/cylinders? What would a 76mm stroke, and a 90.5mm p/c set be for displament? as sounds like a good combo for torq, HP and a longer cooler life? Thanks Jonathan
|
 |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
