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#1
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I was just talking to my buddy yesterday about doing this conversion to my super. I am also seriously considering putting either the 2.5RS engine or a WRX motor in the 914 as well. Reliable hp, water cooled, real heater, AC, boxter, lots of tuning options. I have a source down here for 3000 USD for a 2.5 with harness and computer, or 5000 USD for a complete WRX engine w/harness and computer.
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#2
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Supa,
I'd check around for prices, because the numbers you list seem a bit high (although I don't know the mileage of the engines). And yes, make sure you get the full harness and the ECU when you get the motor. Rob. |
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#3
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I guess my source sucks, I just did a search on Ebay and found a brond new EJ20 crate engine for buyitnow $1999, and there is a 30-40,000mi used EJ20T engine for 800. Not a bad deal at all 220 hp for $800.
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#4
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Rob, maybe somebody asked this before and I just missed it... why didn't you put the rad in the front? Yes, yes, you could ask me the same about my bus and I do have my reasons, just wondered what led you this way.
I have good reason to ask... just got my '61 ragtop body back from a friend who gave up on his project, I've got plans of my own now ...Thanks, Jeff.
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No current VW projects 54 Chevy wagon LS2 AWD 56 Chevy Panel "Lost Cause" VKG Bastage child |
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#5
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Jeff,
The main reason is that the rad (which is the same rad the motor has in the original subaru), does not fit into the front of the standard. I think a super has more room in the front. Plus I wasn't sure if the waterpump would be strong enough to pump the coolant the extra distance. It also seemed the easiest to build, at the time...... Mind you , I do have second thoughts. For instance I'm not too comfy having the rad with all the hot coolant behind me when I get hit from the side or something. But for now I'll go with it. Rob. |
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#6
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Some of the same thoughts and reasons I used. I don't know that it's been easier for my application, I've had some trial and error and I've wasted some money trying ideas... but if I were to start again from scratch (heaven forbid) I'd still do it this way on my bus. My ragtop may be a different story though
. I wouldn't worry as much about a crash, anything severe enough to get to the rad... well, hot coolant ain't gonna be on your worry list . Something that I've noticed that you might want to start planning for... the times when I drove the bus without the divider up that seperates me from the back, those fans are noisy ! and without some serious breeze coming in, the radiant heat off the rad is con-siderable.I definately didn't bring any of this up to cast doubt on your development, you've got a much better platform to get air in with a bug body and that's the main problem I've had... scavenging air from around a brick. I'm excited about your progress and can't wait till it's rolling. Jeff.
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No current VW projects 54 Chevy wagon LS2 AWD 56 Chevy Panel "Lost Cause" VKG Bastage child |
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#7
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Thanks for the encouragement, Jeff.
I know what you mean with radiant heat. I've taken it around the block a couple times, without any shrouding around the rad, and man, it got hot quickly in there ! I am planning on insulating the inside of the shroud with an adhesive insulator that is used to insulate engine compartements in fibreglass boats. I'll keep you posted, right now I am working on wiring the fans. I plan on using the original ECU signal for that, but I need to get a temp guage before I can test it. I don't want to overheat the motor to find out the fans are not coming on. Rob. |
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