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#2
March 1st 2005, 23:13
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Looks awesome! Just tell me the struts bottom out before the front of the control arm does?
Jason
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If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights.... 1960 VW Bug UBRDUB Walkaround 1st Drag Run Dyno Run Oval Ragster-'57 Rag/'04 Boxster S 
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#3
March 2nd 2005, 08:21
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Quote:
Well, the IIRC, the ball joints are 6.5" off the ground with 205/40-17 tires, so with the frame head on the ground, and the ball joints 6.5" off the ground, I have about 1/4" clearance between the control arm and it's channel within the framehead. The bump-stops make contactwell before that. That's what the angle is for in those diagonal links I added to the control arm. Eliminates an acclusion problem.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7
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#4
March 7th 2005, 09:16
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Looking good Yetiman.
Your front suspension setup looks quite the same that I´ve been thinking of. They have used similar "compression struts" or "radius arms" in RWD Ford Escorts for rallying. Take a look: http://www.prepfab.co.uk/newsuspension.htm And I remember seeing a setup like that in a Japanese racer featured article. Very interesting upgrade to a super I think. Justin
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#5
March 9th 2005, 20:16
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Yeah, the J-Sports Bug gave me the idea. It appears they used 1302 arms on that car, prolly class rules for racing
 . My 1303 came with the early cast steel arms too, but I nixed them 'cause of weight, unadaptability to Porsche spindles, and having to weld dissimilar metal together (cast steel to forged steel)
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7
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#6
May 24th 2005, 09:14
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I really like this radius arm idea....I think i am going to head the same direction. I dont like the formed arms of my 1303, they seem weaker than the 1302 arms. I think i want to box mine in also and add the "radius" arm in the front.
How did you decide the length of the arm and the location of the hiems? Ted
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#7
May 24th 2005, 18:39
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I kinda eyeballed it with two broomsticks where the added on strut-rods would be, then used two string lines to line up where the heim joints would go with the control arm pivot points. I wanted to make sure they were in line with each other, so the steering axis wouldn't change as the suspension compacts.
The angle of the pieces I welded on, in relation to the control arms, weren't on purpose. That's just how it came together. The critical part was the bend in the added on pieces. They attach to the control arms with about a 5 degree downward angle, and have about a 12 degree bend upwards, halfway to the end so I would have full travel all the way to some shortened 1303 bump stops without the add on pieces hitting the frame head first. Unless you're going to add strut-rods on to the stock arms like this, I wouldn't recomend boxing them in for strength. The stock suspension relies on the "twist" that the stock control arms have to keep the sway-bar from binding the whole works up. Without that twist, you'd be replacing sway-bar bushings every month, and would have a hell of a time putting it together because of the binding-up. Another thing to stress, take your time, measure three times, and don't try this unless you're sure you can do it right, and without compromise.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 Last edited by yetibone; May 24th 2005 at 18:42.
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