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  #1  
Old April 28th 2005, 14:19
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rip rip is offline
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so lanner when will you start making these
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  #2  
Old April 28th 2005, 22:10
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It's kinda in the works. Still marinating over the details in the noggin. The ends are the hardest part to make. It'll be all aluminum if/when it gets done. I'm trying to figure out how to make it bolt in without compromising the structural integrity.

Easy,
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  #3  
Old May 6th 2005, 13:08
mbartell mbartell is offline
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just wondering

I don't know much about chassis set ups on bugs, but I have ot ask- why are these always bolt in adjustable kits? could you do the same thing by just welding high strength tubes in, kind of roll-cage style? What are the adjusters for?
I guess I'm trying to justify the price when I think a fabrication shop could just weld something in.
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Old May 6th 2005, 21:47
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73notch 73notch is offline
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bugpack freggin sucks. so far everything ive gotten from them is defective, crappily designed, or just plain falls apart. ive learned my lesson about sticking with factory parts if at all possible.

btw i have a couple friends inside bugpack, im not rooting for another company, just my opinion.

got a question regarding the heim joint debate. When i installed mine, i put a little preload into all the bars, which in turn should not allow any side to side movement, maybe back and forth, but then those bars are pushing on the framehorns, i cant see how they would move....
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  #5  
Old May 14th 2005, 21:46
flat flat is offline
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I was looking through aircooled.net's site and I noticed an addition to the description for their kafer bar. Looks mightly similar to my rant a couple of posts (#3, April 28/05) up. Change a few words here and there, but unless you're a bilnd man....


For your viewing pleasure:
"
It's also important to note that there are copies of this device that are showing up. Most of them use Heim rod ends. Think about this; Heim rod ends are designed to be used on an articulated link (a link that must move). For the Heim Joint to swivel within the socket, there must be clearance ( If there was no clearance, the ball wouldn't move). So from an engineering perspective, it makes ZERO SENSE to use heim joints for a stiffening component. For a link that has to rotate, it's great, but for a link that is intended to be stiff and not move, is is the worst connection you can use. The ACN KCB uses solid clevis ends, which is the most stout and solid connection you can use on your car, and they will not wear or loosen.
"

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...RC0006&cartid=

Hmmm, atleast give credit where it's due. I pride myself of developement. Everything I sell I have personally developed. I've never purchased something and "reverse engineered" a product. I've done it the old fashioned way; the triple-C method. Calipers, Calculator and CAD. It's the only way I'll put my name on something. I haven't yet had anyone copy my product (although I'm sure the future holds many surprises), but to copy my ideas?

JC, I'm calling you out. No hard feelings, but throw some props my way!

Lanner
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Last edited by flat; May 14th 2005 at 22:09.
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  #6  
Old May 14th 2005, 21:54
flat flat is offline
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mbartell,

You're right, you could just weld in some tubes. But then you have to design, fabricate and weld. Also it wouldn't be removable.

With the products on the market (and mine soon) the design and fabrication is done. You just weld it in and it's removable should the need arise. Plus it's a whole lot sexier than just welded in tube.

For a stiffening component, the adjustability is there just to insure one product fits all applications. There is no need to preload anything, be it strut brace or rear brace. With left and right hand threads on a fine thread pitch (1mm or 1.5mm) you can generate a significant tension just by cranking the bar down with hand effort. For an experiment I did that with my super strut bar and I could bend the strut tower 0.06" per side with moderate hand force cranking the threads. I got a little scared (it was my own car!) so I backed off. The point is that you can do alot of damage by preloading. Just snug it up and lock it up.

Lanner
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  #7  
Old May 14th 2005, 22:28
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
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hey guys,
how should a strut bar or rear bar be installed?
I mean, should the car be lifted up so the wheels wont touch the ground, thus no preload on suspension geometry, or its ok if the car rests on its wheels? Just curius

chris
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