Which do you think makes the car look more GL?

[rip]

I'd wait until you get responces from the super guys, the std and super differ in track width, how the suspension moves etc...so the comparision will be difficult.

have you tried the super beetles only forums? theres a big one that most of the guy here with supers visit I'd give them a try, probably help you out beter then trying to figure out how the std and super compare

[oicdn]

I've had an account at SBO.com forums for quite some time, but never posted there....tech info didn't seem as replied to as over here. That and the fact that there's like NO TRAFFIC wouldn't really help much. I've just posted a topic there just like 2 seconds ago asking.

[rip]

oh hey what about post another topic here, may be people look at the title " Which do you think makes the car look more GL? " even though the subject matter has changed, may be that will attract more people. Though I must admitt this forum in particular is a bit slow anyways.

But yea I too drive my project as a daily driver, Hey if you want I can email you a excel spread sheet, its the one I was using to calc my difference in turning, i made it for my std bug, but should work for a super.

What it does is compare the stock rim to the new rim. you can add things like spacers and stuff and it calc where the edges of the wheel move. If you want it email me and I'll give you a watered down version so you can play with it if need be. Just remeber its just a tool and there are no guarantees. As i don't know if it would intefer with things like head lights or the front sway bar etc... it just tells you where you are at WRT the stock rim.

Frankly its a lot like the offset calcutor in the sticky post but I've added stuff. let me know

easy
Rip

[oicdn]

I'll just change the topic to "8.5 wheel offset on a super.." Thanks for the recommendation :agree:

Went around tell me if this sounds right....

Quote from topline parts about thier maxx strut:

Allows the mounting of huge 16 and 17 inch diameter deep offset rims. New 80mm springs give MAXXimum clearance, and MAXXimum handling for your Super! With this new strut, you can fit up to 7 inch rims under your stock fender! Our current test car is fitted with Toyo 205/40-17 tires front, and 235/45-17 tires in the rear. It's a close tolerance fit, but it works!

Your installation will require carefull planning, as the kit will only work with rims with 5 1/2 to 6 inch back spacing (approximately 50 to 55mm offset). Longer wheel studs and wheel spacers will probably be necessary.

So, with that said. The stock hubs machined from Vdub increases your offset +2mm per side. I talked to Lanner and he said with the billet hub, it increases it further by +.50 to .60 per side.

So, if I can fit a 7 inch tire under a stock fender with stock drum brakes, with the Machined Porsche kit OR billet hub conversion, a 2in fender kit with Maxx struts should be fine with a 8.5 inch front rim..it'll be nice and flush.

It's only a 1.5 inch wheel width increase(and still mantaining a 52mm offset), as even with the billet hub adding 2.6mm of total track width, that's still only 7/64ths of an inch....

So:
Maxx struts + 8.5inch rim = 2in (2.5 at the very most) fender required lol

Unless, my captian obvious math is all jacked, lol

Now...should be fun getting all this ordered....

[rip]

Originally Posted by oicdn

So, with that said. The stock hubs machined from Vdub increases your offset +2mm per side. I talked to Lanner and he said with the billet hub, it increases it further by +.50 to .60 per side.

It's only a 1.5 inch wheel width increase(and still mantaining a 52mm offset), as even with the billet hub adding 2.6mm of total track width, that's still only 7/64ths of an inch....

So:
Maxx struts + 8.5inch rim = 2in (2.5 at the very most) fender required lol

how did you get 2.6mm additional track? is track taken from centerline of the wheel or outside end of the tire?

Think it's taken from outside of the tire, in which case you'd be looking at almost a 5" increase. plus the increase of scrub.

[oicdn]

Maybe I'm confused with offset and track increase....I know on his site, the machined/modified 944T hubs increase track by +2mm

Here's the eMail about the billet hubs and machine work:

Nate,

Billet hubs with brackets and spindle machine work (if required). would be $C650. I can make hubs and brackets that would bolt on, but there would be an offset increase of about .55-.65" per side. If you don't want so much offset increase, the I have to machine the spindle.

If you supply the hubs, all the work (including spindle work) is $309.

All prices Canadian $'s.

Lanner

here's the last eMail I got from him about the offset spacing and spindle machining:

Nate,

If you want the high offset setup, then I can make bolt on caliper brackets and hence no spindle machining. They would work with stock drum spindles.

If you want low offset, then I'd have to machine the spindles. The price is the same either way. With the low offset setup, the disk is very close to the spindle (about 1mm) so there physically isn't any room for bolt on bracket, hence spindle machining.

Easy,
Lanner

So, I'de want the "no spindle machining" and billet hub option to have the most clearance, right?

Arghhh.....my head hurts. Maybe we're over analyzing this, lol

[rip]

I'd get ahold of the guys at Topline and confirm exactly how much backspacing you can use. If 6 is still okay or is it already at the boarder of "your going to rub at extreme motions of the suspension". If 6" is already at an extreme I'd try to atleast hit that not over. But this may not be the case it might be Topline saying "hey this works but we don't want to be responsible if somthing happens, though 6.5" is still okay".

Remember too that 6mm is the wheel into the springs not including tire bludge. The tires tend to buldge a little about 1/4 inch or so this needs to be taken into account to. Because these strut dicate your requirements I'd get as much info on them as possible, how much is exactly too much. Once we have this the rest is just full-filling those requirements.

But did you understand my calcs?

Yea okay, so I looked at Lanners site. Those measurements he gives you are track increase pre side. So .6"mm wider on each side.

You want the ones that will increase the track the most, it seems like the bolt on brackets and the billet hubs will do that, but this by my calcs may not be enough, that extra 6mm remember?

So may be talk to him and see if he can increase the hubs to provide more of an increase or, just get the stock hubs modified and use a spacer.

This way you have the increase of the stock kit which is 2mm, then save some cash and spend it on some spacers.

Choice is really yours, the real problem with all of this is that it works okay on paper may not be what actually fits. But all of these questions being ask are along the right track. I spent a lot of time working out the details to make my setup, and though it may not be perfect I know it will be better than those who didn't.

But to do this right you need to know what your dealing with, you need the requirements. There is one option here that no one has said yet, may be try and get smaller rims. I know the apeal of larger rims, but with the 8.5 on a super it's sort of new territory. I don't own a super, and frankly math is easy, but me not having experience with a super you'd probably be better off talking to someone who has done this successfully.

Oh yea and the over analyzing thing well yea...when I started doing this I got some weird advice and some completely wrong information. One guy argured with me that a larger offset with spacers is the way to go, after I explained to him why its good, he realized that my point, that a wheel with less offset is just as good and eliminates the need for a spacer. The main problem with this stuff is that we can't go to far in, so if you want wider wheels, well, you gotta move the wheel out. In particular the stds can handle things differently as now you can use large spacers and then narrow the beam to make up for the inceased track, but supers are a different beast. Just remember sometimes just fitting isn't enough, you may want to turn to.

easy
Rip

[oicdn]

Talked to the guys at Topline. They said that 50-55mm backspacing (5 1/2 to 6in) is on a 7in wheel under a stock fender. I'm confused...52mm offset regardless of the total size of the wheel is still 52mm from the rear...so I should be ok right? He said he's never seen anybody with anything wider than 7in in the front

Eitherway, he said I will need to stay under 6 inches of back spacing as that puts the bulge of the tire right up near the spring. So, yeah, 6 inches is the absolute most you can go with... So atleast that gives us a DEFINITE in all of this. So, what's the backspacing in inches on a 8.5 wheel with 52mm offset(should still be like 6 inches...but I figured I'de ask, lol)? Once we get that figured, I'll know exactly what I'll need.

I've been scouring eBay for spacers. $150-200 for a pair on average for the 15mm needed for the rear which are another definite expense. If I get the billet hubs this eliminates a TON OF work and money. Reason? I haven't bought the front Porsche hubs yet, so that saves me money. I don't have to buy spacersfor the front if Lanner can machine the hubs to spec so I have slightly less than 6in of back spacing. Also, I won't have to ship my spare spindles to him, saving me more money....

I'm starting to breathe a little easier, :righton: