#1
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Researching IV cranks...
I am looking to do some research before purchase of a counter balanced 2.0L crank. As for stroke, std or 74mm?? Still undecided.
Here is the low down: Perf. web cam/lifters for 40 IDF's stock p/c's heads: 2.0L (duh) w/ HD single springs The car is for my 2nd son (on the way), so its mainly "aggressive" street car (914) still deciding or rockers, crank, rods. Any ideas? Place and price, please. Thanks
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Dave Korijo 73 Olympic Blue 914 1.7L 69 Highlander Bug 1776 93 GL EV 2.5L The Van (sportin' a new FlowMaster !!) |
#2
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You can go up to a 78mm crank and still have vw journals. As far as where to get a crank, I would recommend DPR or Demello. A nice welded, counterweighted, balanced, and nitrided crank should run you about $425-450. The strength of the welded crank really depends on the quality of the work done by the shop, and both Demello and DPR are known for the quality of their work. You shouldn't worry about using a welded 74 (or 78 for that matter) or a stock forged 71mm, as both are very strong and will work great in whatever combination you eventually choose to use.
Just remember not to go wild on the dispacement and stick to 96mm cast iron cylinders and you should be able to keep your engine more reliable, say vs using 103/105s. Otherwise, if you want more HP and to make it reliable, you'll want to invest some money in better cylinders, like Biral Babies or Nickies. We have tons of information on each product line on our web site at http://www.LNengineering.com. I'd also recommend reading over Jake's website at http://www.aircooledtechnology.com to see what combinations he has dreamed up and his comments on each of them. Charles Navarro LN Engineering http://www.LNengineering.com Aircooled Precision Performance |
#3
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Go straight to a 78 stroke and match it with a TI rod journal and a 5.4 H beam rod! if you don't do it now, you'll wish you had later.
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Jake Raby |
#4
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Jake,
Do I need to clearance the case for the 78 mm stroke? Thanks
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Dave Korijo 73 Olympic Blue 914 1.7L 69 Highlander Bug 1776 93 GL EV 2.5L The Van (sportin' a new FlowMaster !!) |
#5
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whats rods are you using? cam clearance is the issue, and with any added stroke and certain rods you will need to "make it fit"
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Jake Raby |
#6
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Jake,
I was going to use standard 2L rods, or "rabbit rods" rebushed to 24mm pin. I was also wondering cost. 225 for balanced, bushed, etc. rabbit rods. I dont know rebuild cost for 2L rods. Do you? Thanks
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Dave Korijo 73 Olympic Blue 914 1.7L 69 Highlander Bug 1776 93 GL EV 2.5L The Van (sportin' a new FlowMaster !!) |
#7
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Stock rods are too short for a stock 2.0 engine in my opinion...they weigh 700+ grams, and have weak bolts... The rabbit rods are about the same but require more clearancing.
I would use a TI journal on the crank, and a TI chromoly rod. CB has a part#c 1289 riod that works perfect for this, little clearancing needed and they hold my 160 ponies just fine. The only thing is that you will need a set of 22mm pinned pistons to make it work right, I have used a 94mm TI piston(B) to make it work inside a 94mm TIV cylinder. I have a brand new set of Mahle 94Bs in the box without cylinders if anyone needs them for 100 bucks.
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Jake Raby |
#8
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Originally posted by Massive Type IV. Go straight to a 78 stroke and match it with TI rod journal and 5.4 H beam rod! if you don't do it now, you'll wish you had later.
and Quote:
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Thanks, "Speeding Around and about Las Vegas" SPEEDY57TUB Last edited by SPEEDY57TUB; November 27th 2002 at 14:44. |
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