electric beetle - lose gear, keep diff?

[Bruce2]

What max rpm does your motor turn?

You are going to need to retain at least one gear since the input shaft of the trans is not connected to the output shaft. It will probably be 4th gear.

You can probably leave out the shift rod, the hockey stick, internal shift rods, forks, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. The trans would need 2 custom spacers to take up the distance left from leaving out those other gears.

For reverse, have a big switch on the dash to reverse the polarity of the motor instead of switching the gear. That way the trans will always be in gear. No clutch required.

[jeremy_rutman]

Thanks Bruce2 thats exactly the kind of info I need.

My motor has 2500rpm nominal (before torque starts to fall) and 8000rpm max.
100km/hr (~60mph) corresponds to 775wheel revolutions/minute for 68cm diameter wheels.
so I should reduce by factor of ~3 or 4 to get 100km/hr before losing any torque.
If I understand right from http://www.geocities.com/vwtyp181/181_3-2.htm
the diff. has a reduction of 3.8 or 4.3 depending on year so I am ok to just connect motor straight into diff, no other gear required.

Given this and inefficiency of any gear, I'd like to avoid them altogether so I was thinking to remove the gearshift housing and gear carrier (parts 45 and 52 on the attached pic #1), and all the kishkes you mentioned, and attach the motor shaft to whatever sticks out of the differential.
(2nd attached pic)
I can make a doohickey to mount the motor onto the bolt holes that the gear carrier normally attaches to...if I had the blueprints I could plan it now before spending a dime or even a red cent

The reverse is a good idea, already built into the motor controller.

Originally Posted by Bruce2

What max rpm does your motor turn?

You are going to need to retain at least one gear since the input shaft of the trans is not connected to the output shaft. It will probably be 4th gear.

You can probably leave out the shift rod, the hockey stick, internal shift rods, forks, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. The trans would need 2 custom spacers to take up the distance left from leaving out those other gears.

For reverse, have a big switch on the dash to reverse the polarity of the motor instead of switching the gear. That way the trans will always be in gear. No clutch required.

[rip]

how would you stop? possibly hook up a relay from the brake light switch to kill the power to the motor? So then as soon as you hit the brake the power to the motor is shut off, and is free to be slowed down by the brakes.

New to the idea of how a elec car works. And having one always "in gear" might have some issues, or is this how it's done?

[jeremy_rutman]

The braking is taken care of by the motor controller.
When you hit the brake the motor gets rerouted as a generator,
sending power back to the batteries and back-torqueing the
wheels (slowing the car). Its called regenerative braking.
Only if you really slam on the brakes do
the mechanical brakes kick in.

I read recently that 60% of fuel used in the city is wasted on
braking. With 50% regen braking efficiency I stand to gain
30% fuel efficiency off the bat.

Anyone happen to dig up any blueprints?

[Bruce2]

The gear carrier supports the forward end of the pinion shaft, so I don't think you will be able to remove it.

The R&P reduces the speed of the pinion shaft by either 4.375:1, 4.125:1, or 3.875:1.