Chassis bracing (floorpan)

[Bullyboy]

foam is not a good idea for the long term.
We used spray foam insulation to try to seal things up years ago, them we spent hours picking it out before the body panels were replaced from rust.
Unless this stuff is different???

[Racelook]

Originally Posted by Bullyboy

foam is not a good idea for the long term.
We used spray foam insulation to try to seal things up years ago, them we spent hours picking it out before the body panels were replaced from rust.
Unless this stuff is different???

Also my $0,02

[DORIGTT]

Here's a link to the Duramix product line by 3M

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html

Now put that in yer pipe and smoke it!

[V.waffe 3]

The foam used in this process is much different than that normal expanding foam junk used for sealing up holes. I have had some run ins with that crud too and know exactly what you mean. The stuff that I'm speaking of is two components in one seperated tube that catalysed in the mixing tube, unlike the spray can stuff. There are many different expanding foam compounds out there and each of them have a dfferent job. The one I have heard about is made for stiffening, not sealing. The article about a drag Nissan 300ZX was in a Sport Compact Car magazine from 1998 or 1999 I am thinking. Again, I have not had the chance to fully discuss this product with the 3M rep. I would advise sending a email to them before purchase as the foam and gun to press it can be expensive to purchase out right.

Most body shops use this or systems like it for everything for various foams to body panel adhesives. The panel adhesives are another point of interest for restorers of old vehicles,too. I like them for non-structural body patch jobs due to the fact no to minimal welding is required. No welding means, no warping of panels, no moisture caught in the weld which leads to rust out the weld and panel, and not as much skill or expensive equipment needed to do repairs. I have seen entire roof skins put on with this stuff with only a couple of spot welds to hold everything in place. Most companies offer a line of these products including, but no limited to ; 3M, PPG, Duramix, and I think BASF.

I have the most expierence using the Duramix line. It was cheaper than the 3M stuff and so was its gun. The only problem was that you need to make sure that the product has not reached its expiration date. If you guys need anymore information let me know and I'll try and find it. I would suggest checking out that link that homeboy (DORIGGT) found, too.
Later,
V3

[mrweasel]

Why not try these:

Left side
Right side

mrweasel

[Steve C]

Hi

Do they bolt straight onto a non vert chassis?
I wonder what it would cost to get them down here?

Steve

[mrweasel]

Originally Posted by Steve C

Hi

Do they bolt straight onto a non vert chassis?
I wonder what it would cost to get them down here?

Steve

You'd have to remove the jack supports as they as built in on these.


mrweasel

[volkdent]

I purchased 2 sets of the Eyeball Engineering stiffeners. You can try to make this as home or try to have someone make it for you, either way it will be more expensive or less stiff than the products from Eyeball. He has a jig set up for the whole thing and has gone through the trouble to make it work well.

I don't know how the 'vert style compares with weight, but it also needs to be welded on, where the Eyeball is bolt in. The vert ones may be stiffer than the Eyeballs for how much they weigh though.

Jason