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  #16  
Old February 8th 2006, 20:50
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volkdent
hi there , i bought the car with the cb fuel injection already on it, so it was somewere near , the first thing i did was to fiddle with the dash trim pots and sent it all to sh*t, down loaded the instructions from cb and found a long straight bit of road , took about 1.5 hours to set up, i also had the use of a afr meter , i accept the system is not as smooth the ecu's running off a crank trigger but it is alot better than carbs and no worries with cold starting etc.Last year i was running a 220bhp turbo setup and getting 25-28 mpg on a run although this dropped to 10-15 blasting round town .As for this year am building a brand new engine with a larger turbo mounted ontop of the gearbox and massive pipework , hopefully this will be good for over 300bhp at 15psi , am running without an intercooler untill i can afford a charge cooler ,
cheers jon ]
p.s i made my own wiring harness on the rebuild of the car this year for the fuel injection , so by adding a crank trigger and ignition pack and because i have all the throttle bodies injectors and sensors already with the cb system i only have to buy the new ecu to upgrade to emerald , megasquirt etc , ecu is 30% of most systems in cost .
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  #17  
Old February 12th 2006, 18:30
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volkdent volkdent is offline
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Schweet! Looks like your taking your time and building it slowly but surely. It's nice to hear that it works better than carbs. I'd heard some bad stories about the setup, but it sounds like it may be a nice way to go if you're sticking with air cooled.

Jason
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  #18  
Old February 14th 2006, 15:54
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volkdent volkdent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superbug Scott
volkdent,

I'm thinking about going with a 1776 (or bigger) when my current engine gives out.

Your personal story sort of scares me

I don't do ANY work on my bug. While it would be nice to go faster in my VW, really it is more important to be a dependable daily driver that I don't have to lift the engine cover to look at anything besides the oil level.

Sould I give up the 1776, duel carb idea and just rebuild a 1600 when the time comes?

Maybe I should have started a new tread, sorry to hijack.
Most would agree that a 1776 is about the maximum you can go while keeping longevity up, with a relatively modest expense. Keep in mind I drive the snot out of my cars. My 1776 saw redline rpms on a regular basis. If you tend to be a little easier on your engines, a 1776 will do just fine. RPMs kill, as well as higher compression ratios, so if you don't overdo it you should be fine. I suspect if you kept the revs under 4500 you could build a nice torquey type 1 that would last for awhile.

I guess on this forum, I just assume most people are performance minded, and that comes with higher rpms typically. My M3's tach bounced off the redline at the top of the corkscrew and Laguna Seca all day long, but it's designed to do that, although the more time it spends there the shorter it's life will be. The burning candle thing, you know.

Just make sure whoever builds your motor stands behind it, is local, and can keep the maintenence up. Dual carbs are great, as long as they stay synced, better throttle response and more power.

Jason
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  #19  
Old February 14th 2006, 17:24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volkdent
Schweet! Looks like your taking your time and building it slowly but surely. It's nice to hear that it works better than carbs. I'd heard some bad stories about the setup, but it sounds like it may be a nice way to go if you're sticking with air cooled.

Jason
the cb setup on mine is about 20 months old and starts first click warm or cold every time , have discussed with several people about alternative systems and to be honest there is no gain to be had at top end power and running a type one motor with around 300bhp on boost it was never going to be the smoothest of rides , anyway the engine is going in the car this week and the brakes going on so may be on the road in 4 -6 weeks (need to wait for panels to be painted )
cheers jon
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