Some kind of tar on floor pan/chassis...

[Bullyboy]

I found it works best if you heat the scraper, not the tar.
Then it comes off in bigger sections because you are slicing it off.
If you heat the tar it just turns into mush and globs up.
This works good to get tarboards off in one piece if you have a long scraper.
Then you just have to clean up with laquer thinner, acetone, varsol, etc.

[zeroaxe]

Good tip! :agree: I will give that a shot. I hope to have some time tomorrow afternoon to work on it a bit more. Either that, or I continue grinding some weight off of my Type IV's conrods

[SoCalGL]

I just did this two weeks ago.. it took me and my friend, with two chisel and 8 hours of classic rock to get it off.... and i'm still not done now its just me with a heat gun and a metal brush working away at the left overs hopefully by tomm she'll be ready for aircraft stripper... all I can say is go at it till you can't anymore.. then do it tomm...

[zeroaxe]

Well, I have been shipping away on it (pardon the pun) and it is just about done. I am trying to clean up the patches as much as possible to do some welding. But this MIG welder of mine is really frustrating me. Cant seem to get the setting/s right. And the wire doesnt seem to want to roll/feed properly

Next appointment is with the stripper! Sandblastiung that is :agree:

[wrenchnride247]

I run my MIG welder on #1 for amps and 20% on wire feed with .023 gauge wire for thin sheet metal. I have a Miller 135 welder. Make sure you have the right size tip in the gun for the wire size your running, and the pressure on the drive wheels that push the wire thru the cable. To check the wheel pressure put the tip of the gun on a piece of wood (so you don't arc off), and pull the trigger for a second. If the gun gets pushed up off the wood by the wire then your ok. If not, tighten the drive wheels and try again. Also some MIG welders have two different size groves on them for different size wire. You must have have a mix in your gas cylinder of 75% Argon and 25% CO2 for mild steel for MIG welding.


Make sure you have a good ground,and you have clean paint free and grease free spot you are welding. On the thin sheet metal you can't run a long bead or you will blow right through it, or warp it. You must do small quick tacks and space them out over the length of part. Then go back and fill the gaps, spacing the welds out again. This is how i've been welding thin sheet metal with my MIG welder for years. Hope this helps out.

[sheller]

I used the brute force method. I used this pry bar thing (kind of a mix between a chisel and a crowbar) and a very large hammer. I found that the stuff is fairly brittle in most areas so by place the sharp edge of the pry bar on the side of the tar and hitting it with the 3lb sledge, it broke section off.

[zeroaxe]

Well, the bottom of the chassis wasnt laid thick with this crap like the top was. A quick scraping motion/chipping motion removed most of the stuff at the bottom. Maybe the product kind of broke down over time, being exposed to water/mud/craop on the road etc. Either way, I am not complaining!

I am trying to get the welding done on the chassis, but the MIG welder I have got, I just cant get the settings right to weld the chassis. I am pulling my hair out here. At times, I can get a perfect seamless spot weld. Other times with the exact same settings, the weld doesnt want to penetrate and just leaves a little 'ball' on the surface(although the 'ball' fused prperly to the surface)....

I am now currently on the look-out for a better MIG welder. A mid-range welder. In the region of 175+ with independable wirefeed dial(which my current welder has got) and AMP dial(not like the buttons I have now. I have a "MIN - MAX" and "1 - 2" switch, which I just can figure out properly ). At work, I work with a mid/high range MIG welder, and I can do proper professional welds with that machine.

So wish me luck that the wife agrees to let me buy one(it is halfway there already...)