Questions about VW1302RSis ride

[zeroaxe]

Ok, so I have been thinking about the explanation and things.... It was mentioned that when the bars are installed, there should be a SLIGHT 'preload' on them. Now exactly how/what order should the preload be applied?

Here is my take on it, but correct me if I am wrong:
The two diagonal bars should be installed with a 'negative' preload. Thus pulling the top of the shock mounts closer to the frame horns. Because of the framehorns flexing downwards when you excelerate hard, you want the 'free play' to be as little as possible by 'pulling them up' slightly. Then the top bar should be installed with a slight 'positive' preload. Meaning pushing the top shock mounts outwards. This way the top bar will cancel out the 'pulling inwards' force that the diagonal bars are causing, and tie the whole lot in nice and tight.

This is my version of a shot in the dark

[VW1302RSi]

Hi Zeroaxe

Originally Posted by zeroaxe

Ok, so I have been thinking about the explanation and things.... It was mentioned that when the bars are installed, there should be a SLIGHT 'preload' on them. Now exactly how/what order should the preload be applied?

Here is my take on it, but correct me if I am wrong:
The two diagonal bars should be installed with a 'negative' preload. Thus pulling the top of the shock mounts closer to the frame horns. Because of the framehorns flexing downwards when you excelerate hard, you want the 'free play' to be as little as possible by 'pulling them up' slightly. Then the top bar should be installed with a slight 'positive' preload. Meaning pushing the top shock mounts outwards. This way the top bar will cancel out the 'pulling inwards' force that the diagonal bars are causing, and tie the whole lot in nice and tight.

This is my version of a shot in the dark

Ok I’ll correct you, cause I think your wrong but as I have stated before this is my opinion and not gospel, I have been wrong before, I’m bound to be wrong again, just ask my wife.

I don’t know were you got the bit about preload from, as a rule I wouldn’t preload the bars but make sure there was no play in any of the joints when they are installed. There is bound to be some play between the bar ends, mounts, and bolts, that is the play I would remove, but I wouldn’t wind any preload on to them, other than just the amount required to remove the play.

Also what I would do is if you are installing the bar on a car that’s is all reedy going then I would adjust up the bars with the car sitting on all 4 wheels, so if your not real skinny then you would need ramps or if you’re a bit like me then a 4 post hoist wouldn’t go a miss. If the car is still in the building stage then I would just loosely fit the bars, but once you are ready to drive it I would remove the bars and get a few miles on the car to settle every thing down, then recheck the engine/trans mounting bolts and fit the bars with the car sitting on all 4 wheels.

The reason for this is if you install the bars with out the engine and transmission in place then the frame horns may not be in there correct place and buy fitting the bars once you have installed the engine and trans you may be inadvertently preloading the bars.

And because I don’t like looking like a goose I just checked CSP’s website and looked at the instructions for there “torque bar” and they actually say there is no need to preload the bars, Its quite a good set of instructions. http://www.csp-shop.de/technik/pdf/deeng/20917.pdf
Anyhow I must go, the wife is calling

[zeroaxe]

Sorry, when I said "slight preload", I was actually referring to the free play. But at least we agree on that

[ricola]

Great extra pics and video on your site. Sounds nice :-) Any reason you didn't just reverse the coolant manifold?, look like a lot of work went into remaking it like that!
Rich

[VW1302RSi]

Hey Ricola

Thanks for the comments, it wasn’t until I made the video of the car going up the street that I realized I hadn’t herd the car under power on the road
I'm pretty happy with the sound.

Originally Posted by ricola

Great extra pics and video on your site. Sounds nice :-) Any reason you didn't just reverse the coolant manifold?, look like a lot of work went into remaking it like that!
Rich

A few reasons, I decides to run one main cooling pipe down each side of the pan, this worked well getting the pipes from under the pan up to the radiator.

I cut and welded the coolant manifold to turn the out let round towards the flywheel and then welded a alloy 90 deg bent to it so it would then go down behind the head and face the ground, then it was just a matter of getting a 90 deg moulded rubber hose to connect it to the main coolant pipe.

The other reasons were that I wanted the heater out let pipes to face towards the firewall in case I decide to put a heater in the car and it made for a neater and shorter hose run when by-passing the throttle body pre-heater circuit.

Scott

[Steve C]

Hi Scot

Well done, you just inspired me to drop the paint brush and go out into the garage, my wife will call you later.

To the casual observer your car still sounds like a bug, altough one with a few herbs added.

Steve

[VW1302RSi]

Originally Posted by Steve C

Hi Scot

Well done, you just inspired me to drop the paint brush and go out into the garage, my wife will call you later.

To the casual observer your car still sounds like a bug, altough one with a few herbs added.

Steve

Hey Steve

Thanks for the comments about the car, I haven’t heard from your wife yet? You must have picked up that paintbrush again?

Took the car to the track on Friday, I’m still smiling best fun I’ve had with my pants on for quite some time.

I have posted it at http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com/

Good luck with the painting

Scott